Is my Transmission out?

[kirbykirb]

Hey,

 

so yesterday I was pulling out of the parking lot when suddenly my transmission acted as it was in Neutral, and the RPM shot up high. It was still in D (Yes Automatic tranny.) and it took Multiple restarts to get the car to drive again but only for a few more feet.

 

Pretty much, if I switch it into any gear it acts as if it's on N and will roll down a hill backwards on D even. This happened before one night when reverse was weak, and when going backwards the car would shudder/jump violently and then it stalled out! (Yes, drove it 10 feet, then the transmission gave out and the warning lights on the speedometer came on, restarted it and went around for 80 miles, came back and it was fine the whole time and the next few days.

 

The ATF fluid is always in the HOT section, even when the car was left untouched for over 8 hours, but it's pink and smells normal. Theres no leaking of fluid anywhere, and sometimes if I turn the car on now theres a grinding/wheeling noise which I think is the transmission.

 

So, it's the transmission isn't it?

[nipper]

Year engine and how many miles please.

 

What do you mean by "restarts"

 

Have you inspected your front axles to make sure they are still connected to the car?

 

It's possible a front axle is stripped internally, so it may look fine, but its just spining in the boot.

 

i need more information

 

 

nipper

[idosubaru]

i need more information

nipper

me too, me too! in addition to nip's very important questions i'll add some things, first is a test you can easily do - just install a fuse, any fuse like a 10 amp is fine:

 

assuming this is an AWD model trans (you never told us what year, model or engine, trans you have) - install the fuse in the FWD fuse holder on the passengers side rear corner of the engine bay. let us know what happens to the car then.

 

i'd also like to know what previous work has been done to the vehicle?

has it ever been towed? any accidents?

has the sound always been there, from the first time it did this?

is the sound getting worse or has it stayed about the same?

does the sound seem central or possibly one side or the other?

 

off the top of my head it sounds like an axle is imploded (like nipper is suggesting) or the front diff is gone. you have an EJ25 96-99 legacy??

 

always keep in mind - we can't see, hear, touch, smell or lick the car. paint us a picture of what the vehicle is doing minor details of how it acts makes a big difference (because we are that good!).

[nipper]

me too, me too! in addition to nip's very important questions i'll add some things, first is a test you can easily do - just install a fuse, any fuse like a 10 amp is fine:

 

assuming this is an AWD model trans (you never told us what year, model or engine, trans you have) - install the fuse in the FWD fuse holder on the passengers side rear corner of the engine bay. let us know what happens to the car then.

 

i'd also like to know what previous work has been done to the vehicle?

has it ever been towed? any accidents?

has the sound always been there, from the first time it did this?

is the sound getting worse or has it stayed about the same?

does the sound seem central or possibly one side or the other?

 

off the top of my head it sounds like an axle is imploded (like nipper is suggesting) or the front diff is gone. you have an EJ25 96-99 legacy??

 

always keep in mind - we can't see, hear, touch, smell or lick the car. paint us a picture of what the vehicle is doing minor details of how it acts makes a big difference (because we are that good!).

 

My goodness, some people are SOOOOOOOOOOOO nosey

 

 

 

 

 

nipper

[lostinthe202]

always keep in mind - we can't see, hear, touch, smell or lick the car.....

 

 

eeewwwee, I hope you brush your tongue after doing that:-p

[bheinen74]

broken fleplate

[nipper]

broken fleplate

 

How do you taste that?

 

 

nipper

[lostinthe202]

hehehe

[four-fleet-feet]

Yes, drove it 10 feet, then the transmission gave out and the warning lights on the speedometer came on, restarted it and went around for 80 miles, came back and it was fine the whole time and the next few days.

 

So, it's the transmission isn't it?

I do hope you come back and give us more information. However, I hope that 80 miles is a typo; if you thought your trans was toast and you drove 80 miles on it, it just might be for sure, now.

 

I've been in three vehicles which have died from minor trans problems ignored (not by me!) until it was too late, and I can flatly state when they went for good it was scary, since all 3 were on the freeway when they gave up the ghost! Bang, rattle, oh-no, let-me-over! time. You'll decel from whatever speed you were going to nothing flat. If you even think the car's dying, give it a rest and don't drive it until you're sure what's wrong. Keep driving on a minor problem and it won't be minor.

 

(These days, nobody's going to give you room to pull over, they're all gas-raged out!)

[OB99W]

[...]

The ATF fluid is always in the HOT section, even when the car was left untouched for over 8 hours, but it's pink and smells normal.[...]

Maybe it's not the ATF, but something "smells funny" here. Would you describe the procedure you're using to check the fluid level?

[kirbykirb]

Wow, I'm amazed this forum is amazing.

[kirbykirb]

Year engine and how many miles please.

 

What do you mean by "restarts"

 

Have you inspected your front axles to make sure they are still connected to the car?

 

It's possible a front axle is stripped internally, so it may look fine, but its just spining in the boot.

 

i need more information

 

 

nipper

 

By Restart, I mean when the car won't drive anymore I have to put it in P or N, turn the car off, wait a few mins, then I'd turn the car back on, and sometimes the transmission will drive forward for a few feet..sometimes making a huge rumbling sound.

 

Front axle..wow. And yes, my Car is a Build date 8/95 but sold as a 2nd gen 1996 model year. I have a Subaru Legacy GT BD sedan 1996 w/ the 2.5 L engine. Automatic and yes AWD.

 

me too, me too! in addition to nip's very important questions i'll add some things, first is a test you can easily do - just install a fuse, any fuse like a 10 amp is fine:

 

assuming this is an AWD model trans (you never told us what year, model or engine, trans you have) - install the fuse in the FWD fuse holder on the passengers side rear corner of the engine bay. let us know what happens to the car then.

 

i'd also like to know what previous work has been done to the vehicle?

has it ever been towed? any accidents?

has the sound always been there, from the first time it did this?

is the sound getting worse or has it stayed about the same?

does the sound seem central or possibly one side or the other?

 

off the top of my head it sounds like an axle is imploded (like nipper is suggesting) or the front diff is gone. you have an EJ25 96-99 legacy??

 

always keep in mind - we can't see, hear, touch, smell or lick the car. paint us a picture of what the vehicle is doing minor details of how it acts makes a big difference (because we are that good!).

\

 

Recent work, hasn't been through me. But from what I know Head Gasket were replaced. Towed, not that I know off, accidents--none. Sound has just started right there and someone said it could be the torque converter.

 

Front axle really imploded?

 

broken fleplate

 

I don't know.. Sounds easy.

 

I do hope you come back and give us more information. However, I hope that 80 miles is a typo; if you thought your trans was toast and you drove 80 miles on it, it just might be for sure, now.

 

I've been in three vehicles which have died from minor trans problems ignored (not by me!) until it was too late, and I can flatly state when they went for good it was scary, since all 3 were on the freeway when they gave up the ghost! Bang, rattle, oh-no, let-me-over! time. You'll decel from whatever speed you were going to nothing flat. If you even think the car's dying, give it a rest and don't drive it until you're sure what's wrong. Keep driving on a minor problem and it won't be minor.

 

(These days, nobody's going to give you room to pull over, they're all gas-raged out!)

 

the 80 miles isn't really a typo. One time I went to start the car, and it had a weak reverse, shook/shuddered the whole car. Then went a few feet, which was weak then completley stalled out. but I restarted and it was all fine. I went around 3/4 days making 80 miles on it total not at once! And heh, the car died on me a few times when I was trying to make it home on the highway..heh. Jammed traffic up!

 

Maybe it's not the ATF, but something "smells funny" here. Would you describe the procedure you're using to check the fluid level?

 

The ATF looks fine, nice and pink and smells nice. To check the fluid, I pop open the hood, go to the drivers side fender, look right blow the windshield and pull the ATF straw lol. It looks exactyl the same as the one to check the oil.

 

Thank you guys so much!!!

[nipper]

With ttransmission issues, sometimes you have to look at the big mass of metal attached to it.

 

When was the last time the car had a tuneup or the timing belt changed?

 

 

nipper

[kirbykirb]

With ttransmission issues, sometimes you have to look at the big mass of metal attached to it.

 

When was the last time the car had a tuneup or the timing belt changed?

 

 

nipper

 

No idea, my mechanic said the timing belt looked find and needed no change, and the belt is still there I see it moving.

 

Tune up, same the car I got with 121K, it almost has 123k now!

 

It also has the torque bind issue, if that helps. Also, I forgot to say, I have the AT OIL TEMP light flashing 16 times, and I'm trying to do the go over 12mph, then shift from P, 1, 2, 3, D and such to get the thing to flash to tell me whats wrong...but i don't know how.

[nipper]

No idea, my mechanic said the timing belt looked find and needed no change, and the belt is still there I see it moving.

 

Tune up, same the car I got with 121K, it almost has 123k now!

 

It also has the torque bind issue, if that helps. Also, I forgot to say, I have the AT OIL TEMP light flashing 16 times, and I'm trying to do the go over 12mph, then shift from P, 1, 2, 3, D and such to get the thing to flash to tell me whats wrong...but i don't know how.

 

they always leve out those itsy bitsy teensy weency details .... You know like "we can get lots and lots of energy from splitting the atom, but pay no attention to that odd green glow" kind of thing.

 

The timing belt is due at every 106,000 miles. Lets for a moment assume that it is ok.

 

The flashing is telling you the last time you used the car there was a fault in the transmission. i will bet my next paycheck (keeping in mind i dont work ) on you having a failed Duty C solenoid. This needs to be fixed, and it can make the car handle unpredictably (read that telephone pole is coming up to me awfully fast). in wet weather.

 

awd requires the front and rear axles to spin at differnt speeds. in an auto, the duty c is part of that system to allow that to happen. When it fails the front and rear axles are locked together. This is bad. You will have issues with making turns, parking, and pulling into parking spaces. you can damage the CV joints, drive shaft, transmission mounts.

 

Search Torque bind here.

 

i think some of the problems you are seeing is due to the torque bind.

 

nipper

[kirbykirb]

they always leve out those itsy bitsy teensy weency details .... You know like "we can get lots and lots of energy from splitting the atom, but pay no attention to that odd green glow" kind of thing.

 

The timing belt is due at every 106,000 miles. Lets for a moment assume that it is ok.

 

The flashing is telling you the last time you used the car there was a fault in the transmission. i will bet my next paycheck (keeping in mind i dont work ) on you having a failed Duty C solenoid. This needs to be fixed, and it can make the car handle unpredictably (read that telephone pole is coming up to me awfully fast). in wet weather.

 

awd requires the front and rear axles to spin at differnt speeds. in an auto, the duty c is part of that system to allow that to happen. When it fails the front and rear axles are locked together. This is bad. You will have issues with making turns, parking, and pulling into parking spaces. you can damage the CV joints, drive shaft, transmission mounts.

 

Search Torque bind here.

 

i think some of the problems you are seeing is due to the torque bind.

 

nipper

 

Hehe, I searched torque bidn here, and I found that huge topic with many pics. I have to say it's the best compared to every other place, especially NASIOC.

 

But, fixing torque bind is a huge issue, and isn't the diff attached to the rear of the transmission?

 

Would, hypothetically the solenoid C (I'm looking at Subaru Dealership Manual) mean that I have "Excessive braking in tight corners?" the thing is, the car will drop the transmission engagement and act as if D is N.

 

or am I confused about this?

 

But, the thingy which causes torque bind, and my issue now is inside the transmission, correct?

 

If I were to get a transmission like one off ebay--would this both cure my torque bind issue? (Especially if I get a post mid-97 one, with the OEM cure)

 

would this cure my torque bind, and also my current issue right now? Also, I'm not suere if I mentioned this..but my ABS light is on(even if I disocnnect the battery and reconnect it, it comes up ASAP, but the at oil temp light does not pop up until I turn the car on the second time.

 

I also, had the computer scanned after I bought the car..it from it I learned 2 OBD2 codes p0500 and p1101. But also errors of 11, 27, 51 and 52..I forgot what the meant though..

 

MY idea is to generally fix this car up..I don't want a swap to a 5/6mt because it'd be more expensive then just swapping the transmission and it take someone whose done it before, and Im' sure their not that cheap (I only have a bit over 1400$ to spend on this..really don't want to spend it all on this.)

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-98-Subaru-leagcy-Outback-Automtaic-AWD-Transmission_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33727QQihZ022QQitemZ350085933204QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-97-SUBARU-LEGACY-FORESTER-IMPREZA-TRANSMISSION-EJ25_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQihZ017QQitemZ270262232545QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-97-Subaru-SVX-OEM-AWD-Automatic-Transmission-44K_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33727QQihZ021QQitemZ310072340938QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

[kirbykirb]

Wow, after reading a bit of posts here. I also have the "lurch forward" after I place the D to P. Put on the ebrake (I'm used to driving a 5sp, so I'm keeping used to placing the ebrake on when I put my transmision into P)

 

Also, low speed turns--like reversing out of my driveway in the R gear, and doing a 90degree turn, would make the car shudder unbeleivable, as well as uturns.

 

I bet theres more, but that's something I felt like I should add!

[nipper]

OK by the time everything is said and done, it may be cheaper or cost the same to fix your transmission, as opposed to swapping it out, i dont know. i cant tell from the way you are describing your problems. Swapping a tranny can be risky. A transmission wont make your can stall.

 

Go to the autozone and get your codes read, and let us know what they are.

 

Torque bind is a grabbing feeling in tight turns, where you may find it very hard to cut the steering wheel hard. You may need to give the car lots of throttle to get it to move during a turn.

 

The repair is in the 900.00 range.

 

nipper

[four-fleet-feet]

And NOW we cut to the chase.

 

The information in your last post answers a lot of questions.

 

Only $1400 to spend? Forget getting a trans from eBay. Get online with good, reliable Subaru parts resellers/rebuilders, and get something with a warranty. You're going to need a LOT of parts, probably, not just a trans, so I'd seriously consider if you want to keep the car at all, at this point (it's starting to sound like an abused money pit), or if you can handle this being a multi-stage repair which will take time! If you need a reliable transportation car RIGHT NOW, and you don't have the money to do the repairs, maybe getting out now is worth considering. $1400 can get you a decent, reliable car which will get you where you need to go - if you put out the money for an independent mechanic to give the car a once-over BEFORE you buy it.

 

Before you castigate me for saying no to eBay, I should tell you I'm a seller and a buyer, and although my Dragon has an eBay timing belt kit inside her, the seller was carefully researched. The price was also less than $200. There is no way on this Earth I'd shell out for a transmission via eBay. The shipping cost alone could shock you, and if there's anything wrong, you'll be facing an uphill battle to get any satisfaction.

 

How about this: if you decide you want to keep the car, list everything you know or have done to it all in one post. I know some of the other posts in this thread have seemed flip, but we really did need the error codes, how many miles were on the car, and all the other things you've only told us in your last 3 posts.

 

We're really nice and helpful, we just need info to work with!

 

Oh. One last thing. STOP DRIVING THIS CAR! You're heading for an accident - you're lucky you haven't been in one already.

[kirbykirb]

And NOW we cut to the chase.

 

The information in your last post answers a lot of questions.

 

Only $1400 to spend? Forget getting a trans from eBay. Get online with good, reliable Subaru parts resellers/rebuilders, and get something with a warranty. You're going to need a LOT of parts, probably, not just a trans, so I'd seriously consider if you want to keep the car at all, at this point (it's starting to sound like an abused money pit), or if you can handle this being a multi-stage repair which will take time! If you need a reliable transportation car RIGHT NOW, and you don't have the money to do the repairs, maybe getting out now is worth considering. $1400 can get you a decent, reliable car which will get you where you need to go - if you put out the money for an independent mechanic to give the car a once-over BEFORE you buy it.

 

Before you castigate me for saying no to eBay, I should tell you I'm a seller and a buyer, and although my Dragon has an eBay timing belt kit inside her, the seller was carefully researched. The price was also less than $200. There is no way on this Earth I'd shell out for a transmission via eBay. The shipping cost alone could shock you, and if there's anything wrong, you'll be facing an uphill battle to get any satisfaction.

 

How about this: if you decide you want to keep the car, list everything you know or have done to it all in one post. I know some of the other posts in this thread have seemed flip, but we really did need the error codes, how many miles were on the car, and all the other things you've only told us in your last 3 posts.

 

We're really nice and helpful, we just need info to work with!

 

Oh. One last thing. STOP DRIVING THIS CAR! You're heading for an accident - you're lucky you haven't been in one already.

 

I'm not driving the car, I can't it won't move for more then a block without the transmission cutting out. I'm not driving it out of my community area, I only drove it around today because I wanted to see if I reset the battery would help.

 

As for shipping costs, I do have friends in FedEx which entails me to ship any package any weight in the USA for 5$ so I don't care about shipping the parts..

 

I do understand buying an eBay part is not the smartest thing to do, but I'm not necessarily looking for a rebuild on my transmission (to expensive) and if I go to any shop, I bet they'd just pull the transmission out of another car and say it was new, charge 3k+ and etc. I just got the car a month ago. So, I won't be getting what I paid for it back in if I sold it as is now, and I do want to keep the car for a few years (atleast 2/3 more. and I don't mind pouring some money into it.)

 

if you decide you want to keep the car, list everything you know or have done to it all in one post. I know some of the other posts in this thread have seemed flip, but we really did need the error codes, how many miles were on the car, and all the other things you've only told us in your last 3 posts.

 

Error codes that I know of: 11, 27, 51, 52, has ABS light on. OBD2 codes = p0500 VSS problem and P1101 NPS problem. The At oil temp light flashes 16 times, which means a serious problem, and not the Transmission overheating.

 

When I first got the car, I experienced torque bind issues, and was informed it was alright to drive on it, that the car "won't die on me". So, thats why I've been driving it and saving a bit to spend on fixing it.

 

Miles on the car as of now is almost 123K, it's like 122,935 but I've had it when it just turned 121'ish.

 

Turning has been alright as long as I was over 20mph, otherwise, like parking was a bit hard (the car would shudder) but steering was fine. Gas Mileage was a bit affected if I was lucky I'd get 21/22mpg, but right before this happened I was getting barley 18.

 

The car only stalled out once, it happened after I was backing out of my driveway (which is a small hill, if I put the car into neutral, it would roll on itself.) but when I put it into R, it would shudder violently, and pretty much if I press gas, the rpm shot high but it wouldn't translate to make the car drive, then the car shook violently and died, and warning lights came on. I moved the key to the off position, then back into the on position and it was fine, and I went around 30miles on it that evening and came back home and it was fine.

 

Then, I left the car overnight at my friends house..and when I got back into it..accelerating felt a bit weird/loose..but I didn't pay much to it. Then maybe 20mins later I was pulling out of the parking lot where all of a sudden the transmission wasn't engaged anymore and acted as if twas in Neutral (even though it was indeed in Drive) and RPM shot up high as if it was in N.

 

If I move the car into any gear, as in R, D, 1, 2, or 3 the car will not move at all except the inertia from the landscape (like if on a hill it will roll backwards.) and if I press gas, it'd only shoot the RPM's high. But, all of a sudden, I've noticed now that when I turn the car on, theres a wheeling/squeeling kind of noise which comes from under the engine bay..right where the transmission meets the engine (by the starter, and the sticker with the transmission code---tz102Z2aba)

[nipper]

i'm ducking out of this one, as i feel like everything i am saying is falling on deaf ears.

 

 

good luck.

 

nipper

[GeneralDisorder]

Yank the tranny - there's a high likelyhood that so much damage has been done to it that it's just not going to be reasonable to dump extra money at fixing small things on it and hoping it doesn't fail again.

 

The grinding noises are bad - if it were an axle the car would still likely move... just very slowely. Also your description of it moving a few feet after letting it sit doesn't fit with an axle failure - they are 100% mechanical and nothing you could do would change how they are operating.

 

Find a reputable mechanic and a used tranny with a warrantee.

 

You may also have engine issues - the engine should never die with an automatic as there is no physical connection between the engine and the transmission. Terrain and transmission mishaps cannot affect the way the engine runs under normal circumstances.

 

GD

[kirbykirb]

Yank the tranny - there's a high likelyhood that so much damage has been done to it that it's just not going to be reasonable to dump extra money at fixing small things on it and hoping it doesn't fail again.

 

The grinding noises are bad - if it were an axle the car would still likely move... just very slowely. Also your description of it moving a few feet after letting it sit doesn't fit with an axle failure - they are 100% mechanical and nothing you could do would change how they are operating.

 

Find a reputable mechanic and a used tranny with a warrantee.

 

You may also have engine issues - the engine should never die with an automatic as there is no physical connection between the engine and the transmission. Terrain and transmission mishaps cannot affect the way the engine runs under normal circumstances.

 

GD

 

Alright, so it would be best to get a new transmission and swap it in. Alright, thats not as bad as hearing the transmission and Axle!

 

When I'm buying a transmission..what should be includes? I understand the torque converter + the transmission piece itself and also a warranty. Anything else?

 

Also, I do have the torque bind issue..would it be possible that when I replace the transmission--could I solve this issue as well? And if how??

 

Thanks

[OB99W]

[...]To check the fluid, I pop open the hood, go to the drivers side fender, look right blow the windshield and pull the ATF straw lol. It looks exactyl the same as the one to check the oil.

With that kind of response, I can't tell if you know the correct way to check ATF level or not -- if you're using the same procedure to check it as engine oil level, you're doing it wrong.

 

 

i'm ducking out of this one, as i feel like everything i am saying is falling on deaf ears.

Good move, Nipper. Unfortunately, I'm also finding that to be more and more appropriate.

[kirbykirb]

With that kind of response, I can't tell if you know the correct way to check ATF level or not -- if you're using the same procedure to check it as engine oil level, you're doing it wrong.

 

 

Well, then how am I doing it wrong? after this first happened the car had been running for a good 10mins, and prior to it a good 30mins. when I finally got it home I checked the ATF fluid and noticed it was over the "upper level." It's bright red, and dosen't smell burnt..

 

Isn't that corrrect procedure to check ATF fluid?