Is my Transmission out?

[johnceggleston]

elite has a used trans for 499$.

ace and magic each have one , price unknown. the one at ace has only 100k miles.

japanese has one for 650$

 

these are all '97 outback transmissions they will work in your 96 GT. any trans from 96 - 98, outback, legacy GT, or legacy LSi will work if it has the 2.5L engine and the trans part number starts with TZ102Z2........

 

install should cost around 500 - 600$.

 

good luck.

 

 

 

 

Magic Used Auto Parts USA-FL(Clearwater) Request_Quote 1-727-573-7751 Request_Insurance_Quote

 

 

Ace Used Auto Parts USA-FL(Tampa) Request_Quote 1-813-626-2145 Request_Insurance_Quote

 

Elite Used Auto Parts USA-FL(Tampa) Request_Quote 813-247-3334 / 888-606-3334 Request_Insurance_Quote

 

Japanese & European Auto Parts USA-FL(Tampa) Request_Quote 1-813-663-9741 Request_Insurance_Quote

 

 

 

 

[johnceggleston]

kirbykirb,

 

your mail box is full, delete some.

[kirbykirb]

kirbykirb,

 

your mail box is full, delete some.

I did!

[kirbykirb]

So,

 

On the transmission

 

TZ102Z2 has to much to fit in my car, correct? The one in my car this second is a Tz102z2ABA-CH. It seems like 2.2 will fit my 2.5

 

So far I got

 

TZ102Z2ABA = 96 outback (2.2L)

TZ102Z2ABA = 96 outback (2.5L)..... same trans.

 

TZ102Z2CBA = 97 outback

TZ102Z2CAA = 97 legacy LSi

TZ102Z2CCA = 97 legacy GT

TZ102Z2DBA = 98 outback (early 99)

TZ102Z2DCA = 98 legacy GT

 

 

TZ102ZABAA + 96 legacy (all 2.2L cars except outback

TZ102ZACAA + 97 legacy (2.2L)

TZ102ZACAA + 98 legacy (2.2L)...........

 

which all fit, correct?

[johnceggleston]

So,

 

On the transmission

 

TZ102Z2 has to much to fit in my car, correct? The one in my car this second is a Tz102z2ABA-CH. It seems like 2.2 will fit my 2.5

 

So far I got

 

TZ102Z2ABA = 96 outback (2.2L)

TZ102Z2ABA = 96 outback (2.5L)..... same trans.

 

TZ102Z2CBA = 97 outback

TZ102Z2CAA = 97 legacy LSi

TZ102Z2CCA = 97 legacy GT

TZ102Z2DBA = 98 outback (early 99)

TZ102Z2DCA = 98 legacy GT

 

 

TZ102ZABAA + 96 legacy (all 2.2L cars except outback

TZ102ZACAA + 97 legacy (2.2L)

TZ102ZACAA + 98 legacy (2.2L)...........

which all fit, correct?

NO, the ones in red above will NOT fit your car unless you get the matching rear differential with it.

 

the trans that will fit your car must have a 2 after the second Z, like this: TZ102Z2xxx. this '2' means it has the 4.44 final drive ratio like your 96 GT a/t. all 96 - 98 2.2L w/ a/t have a 4.11 final drive, you need the 4.44 final drive ratio.

[kirbykirb]

NO, the ones in red above will NOT fit your car unless you get the matching rear differential with it.

 

the trans that will fit your car must have a 2 after the second Z, like this: TZ102Z2xxx. this '2' means it has the 4.44 final drive ratio like your 96 GT a/t. all 96 - 98 2.2L w/ a/t have a 4.11 final drive, you need the 4.44 final drive ratio.

I love you <3

 

Thanks thanks for the help!

[OB99W]

Well, then how am I doing it wrong? after this first happened the car had been running for a good 10mins, and prior to it a good 30mins. when I finally got it home I checked the ATF fluid and noticed it was over the "upper level." It's bright red, and dosen't smell burnt..

 

Isn't that corrrect procedure to check ATF fluid?

What I'm about to describe is based on what Subaru suggests and my own experience.

 

The first step is to get the trans up to "operating temperature". How long a "run" that takes depends on whether the car is being driven or just idling, the ambient temperature, etc. It could be a few minutes of highway running, or 30 minutes idling. (You probably had it sufficiently warm, going by what you wrote.)

 

Once the fluid is at the correct temperature, you should step the selector through the gears, and back to Park. Pull the dipstick, wipe it, and leave it out for about two minutes. That allows any fluid in the dip tube that has "wicked" up the dipstick to flow down, and for the fluid temperature (and excessive expansion) to "normalize" if the car was just driven very hard. Then insert the dipstick fully, remove it, and look at both sides of the stick -- you may find a different level indicated on each side. If there's a difference, the one indicating the lower level is probably more accurate. Even if the level seems correct, if you see a significant number of bubbles on the stick, the level may actually be low but the fluid has become aerated.

 

I'm not saying that the trans in your car isn't past the point of ATF level being the problem, but perhaps the above might be useful with a replacement trans in that case.

[Olnick]

Pull the dipstick, wipe it, and leave it out for about two minutes . . . Then insert the dipstick fully, remove it, and look at both sides of the stick --

 

I hope the OP realizes that this should be done with the engine running.

[kirbykirb]

Hmmm, I've been talking to some sellers and some have

 

TZ102Z1, I know you said earlier that 2 must be for me otherwise it won't work. Does that apply for these ones too?

 

thanks!

 

I hope the OP realizes that this should be done with the engine running.

And, yes I have.

[johnceggleston]

Hmmm, I've been talking to some sellers and some have

 

TZ102Z1, I know you said earlier that 2 must be for me otherwise it won't work. Does that apply for these ones too?

 

thanks!

 

 

And, yes I have.

 

to the best of my knowledge, there was not a trans made by subaru in the 90's starting with TZ102Z1.... but then i have only studied legacy trans, not impreza or forester. stick with TZ102Z2.....

[kirbykirb]

to the best of my knowledge, there was not a trans made by subaru in the 90's starting with TZ102Z1.... but then i have only studied legacy trans, not impreza or forester. stick with TZ102Z2.....

Alright, will do!

 

I'm asking because theres a company selling replacement transmissions which they say are imported from japan. Not that I care where they came from--

 

Just, thought I'd ask to make sure!

[four-fleet-feet]

Not that I care where they came from--

Actually, yes, you should.

 

Here's my last suggestion on this thread. Quit shopping around to save a dollar here and there, go with one of the bigger Subaru parts resellers on the Web (NOT eBay!) and get your transmission from them. You need a good one; since you're not shopping locally, get one from a company with a track record and good customer service.

 

This board has members all over the world, and we are not shy about telling you which companies have been fair with us, which have gone the extra mile, and which we wouldn't let our worst enemy take their Subaru to if it was the last shop on Earth! There have been a few really good and tested places mentioned on this thread, and if you do a search, other places have been mentioned in those transmission replacement threads.

 

You only want to do this once; being penny-wise and pound-foolish when shopping online for expen$ive parts can backfire, and you want this tranny to last.

 

Now, nothing you can do to your old car will change the fact that your current tranny is definitely toast - driving a marginal one kills them! Until you swap it out and fix the other issues (oh, yes, from your codes you have others) this car isn't going anywhere, safely or not, at all. Do not drive this car again (even around the block) to 'see if it's better now' until you get ALL the work done.

 

We've told you what you need, suggestions where to safely shop, and not to get certain things. We all have Subarus and want to see your car get on the road with you. We're not miracle workers, though. Unless you get a good transmission, and then install it AND the other parts needed, it won't be fixed right. If you drive it while something else is wrong, you could put every penny you spent on the trans at risk. You, my fellow Subaru owner, are driving another vehicle or are on public transportation, until it's all done. I hope.

 

So, please, get a good one, come back and let us know, and then we can help with the other issues.

 

Hope to see your car (and you) happily on the road someday, f-f-f

[OB99W]

I hope the OP realizes that this should be done with the engine running.

Yes, good point -- the engine should remain running while the ATF level is being checked. (Although I didn't say anything about turning the engine off, I guess one shouldn't make assumptions. )

[WoodsWagon]

I hope you havent bought a transmission yet, and it's a pity I didn't see this thread earlier, been working my rump roast of recently.

 

Option 1: Broken axle. Dealt with this on Sunday. Friend comes by, say's he thinks the trannys screwed. Makes horibble grinding noises, you put it in park and it still rolls away, and there's a lag where the engine revs before the car moves. That's the AWD kicking the rear drive in to move the car. Turbo legacy's can light them up real good in RWD by the way. Had to have some fun before we swapped the axle.

 

Option 2: Broken Flexplate. The engine in my car was a freebie because of this. Subaru flexplates have a habit of cracking right around the boltpattern on the crank. The crack makes a full circle around the crank flange and does one of two things. The first is a crack that has an irregular enough shape that the plate and torque converter stays indexed to the crank. This ends up sounding like really bad bearing knock. The engine is pulled to be replaced, cracked flexplate is found, engine is still fine but is replaced anyway, leaving good engine for me to take. The other way is a crack circular enough that the torque converter can shift in relation to the crank. When you put it in gear, the crank spins but the TC doesn't. The flip side of this failure is you will have starting issues. The starter motor turns the TC side of the flexplate, so if the engine cranks over really funny and makes bad noises, it could easily be the flexplate.

 

Option 3: Transmission failure: stalling means that the torque converter lockup clutch is being applied for some reason. Torque bind is caused by deteriorated ATF and sticky solenoids and spool valves. Changing the ATF multiple times will often fix this. This crappy fluid could be related to the other problems, but at this time it may be too late. The TCU throwing codes is not a good sign, but it does help. Find out how to retrieve and decipher the codes, they give you a window into what the TCU is seeing.

 

The bottom line is to figure out exacly what is wrong first. Subaru 4eat transmissions (other than the 1999my ones) are really reliable transmissions. It takes a lot of neglect and abuse to do one in. Throwing a tranny at a car to fix a problem you haven't figured out is just stupid.

 

The squeeling from the bellhousing is a big hint, follow it.

[kirbykirb]

I hope you havent bought a transmission yet, and it's a pity I didn't see this thread earlier, been working my rump roast of recently.

 

Option 1: Broken axle. Dealt with this on Sunday. Friend comes by, say's he thinks the trannys screwed. Makes horibble grinding noises, you put it in park and it still rolls away, and there's a lag where the engine revs before the car moves. That's the AWD kicking the rear drive in to move the car. Turbo legacy's can light them up real good in RWD by the way. Had to have some fun before we swapped the axle.

 

Option 2: Broken Flexplate. The engine in my car was a freebie because of this. Subaru flexplates have a habit of cracking right around the boltpattern on the crank. The crack makes a full circle around the crank flange and does one of two things. The first is a crack that has an irregular enough shape that the plate and torque converter stays indexed to the crank. This ends up sounding like really bad bearing knock. The engine is pulled to be replaced, cracked flexplate is found, engine is still fine but is replaced anyway, leaving good engine for me to take. The other way is a crack circular enough that the torque converter can shift in relation to the crank. When you put it in gear, the crank spins but the TC doesn't. The flip side of this failure is you will have starting issues. The starter motor turns the TC side of the flexplate, so if the engine cranks over really funny and makes bad noises, it could easily be the flexplate.

 

Option 3: Transmission failure: stalling means that the torque converter lockup clutch is being applied for some reason. Torque bind is caused by deteriorated ATF and sticky solenoids and spool valves. Changing the ATF multiple times will often fix this. This crappy fluid could be related to the other problems, but at this time it may be too late. The TCU throwing codes is not a good sign, but it does help. Find out how to retrieve and decipher the codes, they give you a window into what the TCU is seeing.

 

The bottom line is to figure out exacly what is wrong first. Subaru 4eat transmissions (other than the 1999my ones) are really reliable transmissions. It takes a lot of neglect and abuse to do one in. Throwing a tranny at a car to fix a problem you haven't figured out is just stupid.

 

The squeeling from the bellhousing is a big hint, follow it.

 

Hmm...well my car is down and school starts in a week. yay dealer wants 540$ if they were to do a tranny swap..

 

should I just bite the bullet and have my car towed to the dealer so they can "properly" inspect everything/diagnostic? I'd assume they know best because it's the dealer.. this way I shall know what the exact problem is with the car too..and get a nice quote.

 

Hmm... not sure what to do either..the transmissions near me that I can pick up won't fit my car, and the ones online that will are easily over 800$.

 

What do you guys think I should do now? I really do suspect the transmission, and I'm pretty positive it's not a broken flex plate (Car has no trouble starting at all.) The axle is fine imo because when the tranny wants to work, it'd move both axles.

 

I really want this fixed in less then 8 days.

[kirbykirb]

Well, woot. I was bored so I did the tranny show your code trick and found out you don't have to do the 12mph requirement on it. It responded with 23/24/25 error codes inclding Soelnoid C.

 

I have a transmission waititng to be picked up locally in tampa from Ace Auto's. thanks john!

 

And I found a nice shop to do the swap cheaply

 

I should have my subie back on the road sat, yay! :banana:

 

Thanks guys..even though some of you ran away

[kimokalihi]

My tranny did this to me when I first got my legacy. I was coming home one night going up my huge hill and it revved up to 6K or so and started losing speed fast. Then it rolled backwards down the hill until I hit the brakes. After that it wouldn't engage in any gear and I just figured the tranny was toast. It had fluid in it. I went to the junkyard and got a tranny with about 130K miles less on it and swapped it in. Been golden ever since. This tranny shifts much better.

 

The one it had in it before had problems. It wouldn't shift until you let off the accelerator. Even if you were barely giving it any gas it would stay in the same gear all the way up intil 6.5 or 7K RPM! If you let off the accelerator it would shift. That was annoying.

[kimokalihi]

Well, woot. I was bored so I did the tranny show your code trick and found out you don't have to do the 12mph requirement on it. It responded with 23/24/25 error codes inclding Soelnoid C.

 

I have a transmission waititng to be picked up locally in tampa from Ace Auto's. thanks john!

 

And I found a nice shop to do the swap cheaply

 

I should have my subie back on the road sat, yay! :banana:

 

Thanks guys..even though some of you ran away

 

 

How much are they charging for it? I did it myself and it was a terrible time. It was not easy by any means. One of the most difficult things I've ever done on a car. Probably the most difficult actually. It's easier to pull the whole engine and rebuild it then swap out the tranny.

[kirbykirb]

How much are they charging for it? I did it myself and it was a terrible time. It was not easy by any means. One of the most difficult things I've ever done on a car. Probably the most difficult actually. It's easier to pull the whole engine and rebuild it then swap out the tranny.

They were the 2nd cheapest so I was happy. They wanted for the tranny 450$+ tax.

 

But they didn't charge me the tax! I'm going in an hour or two to pick it up.

[kirbykirb]

Ohhh look who poped in to say hello

 

 

all snuggled up in my trunk mwahah

[kirbykirb]

So,

 

I just found out the PO changed the transmsision on my car to a later model.

 

The CV joints on my car are female, while the points they connect to on the car are male.

 

So, I'm gunna go pull the CV joints at the wreckers and get that and install them monday, Blahh.... (((

[johnceggleston]

So,

 

I just found out the PO changed the transmsision on my car to a later model.

 

The CV joints on my car are female, while the points they connect to on the car are male.

 

So, I'm gunna go pull the CV joints at the wreckers and get that and install them monday, Blahh.... (((

 

 

solw down, STOP!you do not know what you are talking about!! what are you talking about? please explain, show a picture or two.

 

do you have a haynes repair manual for your car? if not, go get one. all subaru trans 95 - 99 and beyond use the same axles.

 

what are you talking about.? spend all day tomorrow searching and reading this site for information on trans swaps. especially the part about 'seating" the torque converter. you'll save yourself a lot of trouble and you won't waste your money on parts you don't need, and you'll avoid mistakes that will cost you money. and your blood pressure will be much lower and healthier. use the search buton at the top of this page.

[WoodsWagon]

You pulled the stub axles out of the front differential. They were supposed to stay in. The CV joint has a roll pin that holds it onto the splines on the stub axle. Take a look at the replacement tranny, it has a hole through the stub axle were the pin goes through. Drive this pin out of your CV's and pull the stub axles out, then they will slip right on the replacement transmission.

 

EDIT: The transmission you have in the trunk has the stub shalfs ripped out of it. You need to pull the stub shafts out of your transmission. They will be a *************** to yank without the CV's on them, the CV's give you something to lever on with a prybar between the side of the tranny and the CV to pull the stub axle. There is a clip on the end of the axle that holds it into the diff, it takes a lot of pull to get the clip to compress and let the axle out.

[kirbykirb]

solw down, STOP!you do not know what you are talking about!! what are you talking about? please explain, show a picture or two.

 

do you have a haynes repair manual for your car? if not, go get one. all subaru trans 95 - 99 and beyond use the same axles.

 

what are you talking about.? spend all day tomorrow searching and reading this site for information on trans swaps. especially the part about 'seating" the torque converter. you'll save yourself a lot of trouble and you won't waste your money on parts you don't need, and you'll avoid mistakes that will cost you money. and your blood pressure will be much lower and healthier. use the search buton at the top of this page.

 

Yeah, I have a hayens but we were using the subie dealer manual..heh,

 

I meant Female and Female, the end where the CV joints the tranny are both female, while on the trany that came out of the car (We found out, my subie had a previous junkyard tranny in it too.) had on it male end,

 

This is what I mean--

Male connector...

While, in the new tranny---their like this

the red part covers it up but it's a female connector. (Also found out new tranny has only on it 60K!! )

 

You pulled the stub axles out of the front differential. They were supposed to stay in. The CV joint has a roll pin that holds it onto the splines on the stub axle. Take a look at the replacement tranny, it has a hole through the stub axle were the pin goes through. Drive this pin out of your CV's and pull the stub axles out, then they will slip right on the replacement transmission.

 

EDIT: The transmission you have in the trunk has the stub shalfs ripped out of it. You need to pull the stub shafts out of your transmission. They will be a *************** to yank without the CV's on them, the CV's give you something to lever on with a prybar between the side of the tranny and the CV to pull the stub axle. There is a clip on the end of the axle that holds it into the diff, it takes a lot of pull to get the clip to compress and let the axle out.

 

I think you hit the nail in the answer I'm looking for so they do come out, awesome we weren't ************ing sure about it on spot and we were like screw it the tranny has to come out anyway so we took it out, then tried to take it out via various methods which did not work, so we just took a drink break and called it a day heh.

 

Some more random pics--

 

The tranny has been murdered.

[kirbykirb]

Omg they do come off! ! yay my subie will be back on the road soon mwhaha.