Sub Repair Near Portland, OR?

[Subarule]

I was wondering if anyone here knows of a place near or around Portland Oregon that specializes in Subarus, the upkeep & repair of the vintage ones.

 

I live in a small town and there is no one around here who knows the older Subarus very well. I'm female and not mechanically-inclined (not when it comes to cars) and my dear old Subie needs stuff. It runs great but it's showing its age in various ways and I'd like to give it a new lease on life.

 

It's a carbureted '86 4X4 5-speed wagon.

 

If you have somewhere to "steer" me it will be very much appreciated.

 

Thanks.

 

Subarule

[edrach]

You're in luck. There's an independent Subaru shop at the corner of Prescott and 82nd (I think). Anyway, you can find them at www.fixmysuby.com. They're opening a second shop in the area but I don't know where that is yet.

 

Great place to do business, especially for the earlier models. I live just north of Seattle, but try to arrange service on my Impreza whenever I'm in Portland on business.

 

Tell them edrach sent you!

[Subarule]

You're in luck. There's an independent Subaru shop at the corner of Prescott and 82nd (I think). Anyway, you can find them at www.fixmysuby.com. They're opening a second shop in the area but I don't know where that is yet.

 

Great place to do business, especially for the earlier models. I live just north of Seattle, but try to arrange service on my Impreza whenever I'm in Portland on business.

 

Tell them edrach sent you!

 

Wow, that's wonderful. Thank you! I will definitely take my girl there, and I will definitely tell them edrach sent me.

 

Subarule

[Flowmastered87GL]

The owners name is Richie. (and his Dad is Rich) His logon here is Richierich (Richie's login) Richie's shop is currently the only shop (other than dealer tuneups and warranty stuff) that I trust with my Baja

 

They are located on NE 82nd and prescott last I went there.

 

He also has some parts cars, so he may have some hard to find parts floating around somewhere.

 

And you can say Mike seconded Ed's recommendation

[Spiffy]

You're in luck. There's an independent Subaru shop at the corner of Prescott and 82nd (I think). Anyway, you can find them at www.fixmysuby.com.

 

this is also the shop I go to... been going there for years and richie is awesome...

 

if I want it done right, and quickly, I take it to him... and if I screw it up I take it to him... (:

 

 

--Spiffy

[GeneralDisorder]

What do you need exactly? Us members in the area have been known to help each other out for no charge.

 

If it's simple stuff (axle change, etc) or you want an honest opinion from someone that's not financially involved you could drop by and I could take a look.

 

I'm in West Linn - just south on 205 a peice.

 

Ritchie is a good guy, but no one touches my cars but ME, so I don't have first hand experiences with him. Seems like a nice person at the shows and such.

 

GD

[Awddrift4]

now if only there was a shop like that near kansas lol

[ccrinc]

now if only there was a shop like that near kansas lol

 

Slimmer's Automotive, Lawrence, KS.

 

I know it's a bit of a drive from Topeka, but worth the trip. Good people.

 

Emily

http://www.ccrengines.com

[Subarule]

What do you need exactly? Us members in the area have been known to help each other out for no charge.

 

I need quite a bit of stuff....

 

all new brakes

the hillholder adjusted

all new steering sytem

a horn that works (and is louder than the original)

new CVs

maybe new struts all around

maybe a new alternator

the doors taken apart and the contacts for the power windows cleaned

whole vacuum sytem checked for leaks and repaired

the whole HVAC system gone through, repairs where needed

tailgate lift strut replaced

all the fuses replaced, fusible link replaced

carburetor gone through & cleaned, maybe (most likely) rebuilt

both headlamps replaced with new

door trim (rubber strips) put back on so they will stay attached

I'd like to get all the emission stuff off that I don't need, to increase power & so I don't have to worry about replacing parts of it

 

do the AC sytems on this year & model require coolant replacement everys so often? My AC sometimes works & sometimes doesn't. And when it's on & working, the tach wanders all over the place. The higher the AC fan setting, the worse the wandering range of the tach is.

 

Anyone not too far from me care to take any of that on? I'm not looking to get everything done at the same place or by the same person/people, necessarily.

 

I'm not interested in used parts except in cases where a new OEM or direct replacement part is almost impossible to get. My goal is to get the car in as close to factory-new running condition as possible, so that I can drive it all over the USA without feeling like there are things about it that are 'iffy'. I'd like a power boost to make tackling mountains passes not feel like I'm riding a pack mule up them.

 

Subarule

 

 

If it's simple stuff (axle change, etc) or you want an honest opinion from someone that's not financially involved you could drop by and I could take a look.

 

I'm in West Linn - just south on 205 a peice.

 

Ritchie is a good guy, but no one touches my cars but ME, so I don't have first hand experiences with him. Seems like a nice person at the shows and such.

 

GD

[Spiffy]

all of those things can be done at home with a little time...

 

I used to have an '85 and did a lot of those things myself, and I'm a n00b...

 

I'm always on the iffy side when I'm driving my 26 year old car... things are going to die on it after a while...

 

 

--Spiffy

[GeneralDisorder]

I need quite a bit of stuff....

 

all new brakes

Brakes are easily done. You might consider swapping the rear to disc's as they are plentiful in the junk yards around us and the swap is potentially easier than rebuilding the aging drums. All said and done it likely wouldn't cost any more either.

 

the hillholder adjusted

 

There goes 3.5 minutes.

all new steering sytem

 

Hold up just a minute there! ALL NEW?!? I'm certain you don't need that nor would you like the cost. You mean inner and outer tie rod ends right? Maybe the rag joint too? All fairly easy - should have a proper alignment done so you don't jepordize any tire warantee you might have.

 

a horn that works (and is louder than the original)

 

They are just dead. There are two behind the bumper - low tone and high tone. If they are both working they are quite loud enough. Aftermarket you could get some serious stuff if you were so inclined.

new CVs

 

Done at the same time as the brakes. 20 minutes per side on top of a brake job.

 

maybe new struts all around

 

If they aren't leaking or bouncy I wouldn't bother.

 

maybe a new alternator

 

10 minutes.

 

the doors taken apart and the contacts for the power windows cleaned

 

Grab an extra set at the junk yard so you can just throw them in and not have the doors apart for hours while you clean all the little bits. That's an easy job you could do yourself if you are inclined.

 

whole vacuum sytem checked for leaks and repaired

 

Why are you inclined to think it leaks?

the whole HVAC system gone through, repairs where needed

 

What is broken. You DO NOT want to do this if there isn't a clear problem you are looking to fix. It would involve the removal of the entire dash.... for days.

 

tailgate lift strut replaced

 

5 minutes.

 

all the fuses replaced, fusible link replaced

 

Neither neccesary, nor reccomended. Fuses do not get old, and the links you simply inspect, check the connections and add some silicone grease. They should never require replacement.

 

carburetor gone through & cleaned, maybe (most likely) rebuilt

 

Consider swapping it to a Weber. That is the answer to your vacuum system, your power needs, and your carburetor cleaning/rebuilding concerns. Certainly wouldn't cost any more.

 

both headlamps replaced with new

 

I would agree with that. Tail light bulbs too.

 

door trim (rubber strips) put back on so they will stay attached

 

Have to see that one in person to get an idea of the extent.

 

I'd like to get all the emission stuff off that I don't need, to increase power & so I don't have to worry about replacing parts of it

 

Weber - without question.

 

do the AC sytems on this year & model require coolant replacement everys so often? My AC sometimes works & sometimes doesn't. And when it's on & working, the tach wanders all over the place. The higher the AC fan setting, the worse the wandering range of the tach is.

 

That could be a number of things. Could be anything from the AC compressor/clutch going out, to the idle-up solenoid, to a bad distributor. I would have to see it.

 

Anyone not too far from me care to take any of that on? I'm not looking to get everything done at the same place or by the same person/people, necessarily.

 

I can look at it. If you prioritize your list I could assist you with some of these things. It won't all get done overnight though - I don't have that kind of time.

 

I'm not interested in used parts except in cases where a new OEM or direct replacement part is almost impossible to get. My goal is to get the car in as close to factory-new running condition as possible, so that I can drive it all over the USA without feeling like there are things about it that are 'iffy'. I'd like a power boost to make tackling mountains passes not feel like I'm riding a pack mule up them.

 

Subarule

 

Perhaps you don't want to hear this, or maybe there are reasons which you have not disclosed for wanting to restore this car to something you could drive all over the US, but I have a sugestion.

 

Buy a 1st generation Legacy. They are cheap, you'll spend far less than you will fixing all that stuff on the EA82, they have all the power you want, they are dead reliable machines, and they don't suffer from the myriad of problems the EA82's do. The EA82 is arguably, I'm sorry to say, the worst engine Subaru ever made. That's not to say that it can't be reliable and last a long, long time - it IS still a Subaru after all . But the EA82's are getting long in the tooth, the parts availibility is getting poor, and that means turning to aftermarket chinese infererior parts. At that point you might as well have a Chinese car for all the trouble they will give you. The timing belt system is primitive, as is the lubrication system and the valve train. On top of that, for all the added complexity, the carb model you have makes a dismal 84 HP - only 11 more than the EA81 did and the EA82 has a heavier body that eats up any advantage the 11 HP might have bought you.

 

There are soooo many reasons you should get a 1st gen Legacy that I can't even list them all here.

 

That is just a sugestion though, and if you would like help making repairs to your EA82 then I have no problem assisting with that. I could also help you find a Legacy if you are interested in looking.

 

GD

[Subarule]

If I am going to buy another car it will be a later model Volvo XC70 wagon or a Forester - something from 2000 - 2006. Those are the only makes & models I will consider. But I don't want a car payment and I don't want to use up a large chunk of cash for one outright if I can get the car I have running like I want it to.

 

Brakes are easily done. You might consider swapping the rear to disc's as they are plentiful in the junk yards around us and the swap is potentially easier than rebuilding the aging drums. All said and done it likely wouldn't cost any more either.

 

I want everything to do with the brakes replaced with new. Not used/salvaged. If new are available somewhere for that year & model.

 

There goes 3.5 minutes.

 

 

Hold up just a minute there! ALL NEW?!? I'm certain you don't need that nor would you like the cost. You mean inner and outer tie rod ends right? Maybe the rag joint too? All fairly easy - should have a proper alignment done so you don't jepordize any tire warantee you might have.

 

Yes, all new. And I won't get new tires for it until the suspension/steering/ alignment work is done.

 

 

They are just dead. There are two behind the bumper - low tone and high tone. If they are both working they are quite loud enough. Aftermarket you could get some serious stuff if you were so inclined.

 

I've always hated the sound of the factory-installed horn. I want mine replaced with a serious horn, not one that sounds like a duck with a cleft palate.

 

Done at the same time as the brakes. 20 minutes per side on top of a brake job.

 

If they aren't leaking or bouncy I wouldn't bother.

 

I've priced new struts and they're inexpensive. Relatively speaking.

10 minutes.

 

Grab an extra set at the junk yard so you can just throw them in and not have the doors apart for hours while you clean all the little bits. That's an easy job you could do yourself if you are inclined.

 

I'm not so inclined. I am disabled (ruled so legally) and I don't have the patience, the time or the physical wherewithal to deal with that myself.

 

Why are you inclined to think it leaks?

 

I know I have serious vacuum leak. I could describe the symptom(s) here but that would take too much time. I have a cracked plastic thingie that I don't know the name of, that has 5 ports (maybe they're called nipples) that vacuum lines go to. Or come out of. I have photos of it.

 

What is broken. You DO NOT want to do this if there isn't a clear problem you are looking to fix. It would involve the removal of the entire dash.... for days.

 

I was/am already prepared to give up the car for several days to get everything done that I want, and to buy all the new parts I can obtain. Yes, new.

 

 

 

5 minutes.

 

 

 

Neither neccesary, nor reccomended. Fuses do not get old, and the links you simply inspect, check the connections and add some silicone grease. They should never require replacement.

 

There are some funky electrical problems.

 

Consider swapping it to a Weber. That is the answer to your vacuum system, your power needs, and your carburetor cleaning/rebuilding concerns. Certainly wouldn't cost any more.

 

I am willing to do that. And get rid of all the emission stuff I don't need.

 

 

 

I would agree with that. Tail light bulbs too.

 

 

 

Have to see that one in person to get an idea of the extent.

 

 

 

Weber - without question.

 

OK.

 

 

 

That could be a number of things. Could be anything from the AC compressor/clutch going out, to the idle-up solenoid, to a bad distributor. I would have to see it.

 

I'd be happy to demonstrate it.

 

 

I can look at it. If you prioritize your list I could assist you with some of these things. It won't all get done overnight though - I don't have that kind of time.

 

I will PM/IM you.

 

 

 

Perhaps you don't want to hear this, or maybe there are reasons which you have not disclosed for wanting to restore this car to something you could drive all over the US, but I have a sugestion.

 

Buy a 1st generation Legacy. They are cheap, you'll spend far less than you will fixing all that stuff on the EA82, they have all the power you want, they are dead reliable machines, and they don't suffer from the myriad of problems the EA82's do. The EA82 is arguably, I'm sorry to say, the worst engine Subaru ever made. That's not to say that it can't be reliable and last a long, long time - it IS still a Subaru after all . But the EA82's are getting long in the tooth, the parts availibility is getting poor, and that means turning to aftermarket chinese infererior parts. At that point you might as well have a Chinese car for all the trouble they will give you. The timing belt system is primitive, as is the lubrication system and the valve train. On top of that, for all the added complexity, the carb model you have makes a dismal 84 HP - only 11 more than the EA81 did and the EA82 has a heavier body that eats up any advantage the 11 HP might have bought you.

 

There are soooo many reasons you should get a 1st gen Legacy that I can't even list them all here.

 

That is just a sugestion though, and if you would like help making repairs to your EA82 then I have no problem assisting with that. I could also help you find a Legacy if you are interested in looking.

 

GD

[GeneralDisorder]

I want everything to do with the brakes replaced with new. Not used/salvaged. If new are available somewhere for that year & model.

 

You have to understand that making a blanket statement like that isn't applicable when talking about vehicles this old.

 

If you were to replace every component of your brakeing system with brand new parts, you are looking at several THOUSAND dollars. From the booster, master cylinder, reservoir, and hill-holder, to the soft lines, calipers, pads, ect, ect.

 

There simply is no reason for this. Calipers can easily be rebuilt and will perform just like new. Backing plates, slide pins, and caliper brackets etc are not wear items. The Brake booster's and master cylinders rarely fail.

 

Modern braking systems use dual-circuit design's. If a single component fails the other circuit will still operate one front and one rear wheel. Complete brake failures on anything built after 1950 is almost unheard of. Replacing the pads and rotors, and rebuilding the calipers on the bench is more than adequate. Replacing soft lines isn't a bad idea but those are cheap.

 

Adding rear disc brakes from an EA82 turbo vehicle using junk yard parts is no different. You use new pads and rotors and you rebuild the calipers with a new o-ring and boot. Rear brakes do only 20% of the brakeing and the main advantage of rear discs is that they never need to be adjusted. IF you could even get the parts from the dealership, they would likely cost more than you car is worth. Just because it's called a "junk" yard doesn't mean it's junk. The parts we would need have no moving parts and should last the life of several vehicles if they ever wore out at all.

 

 

Yes, all new. And I won't get new tires for it until the suspension/steering/ alignment work is done.

 

New tie rod ends and a urethane rag joint would be my sugestion. The rack, power steering pump, lines, and steering column are not wear items and should never require replacement. Again those items would cost more than the car.

 

I've always hated the sound of the factory-installed horn. I want mine replaced with a serious horn, not one that sounds like a duck with a cleft palate.

 

That's understandable. I don't find I have much use for a horn myself, but it's a personal thing I think.

 

I've priced new struts and they're inexpensive. Relatively speaking.

 

I just highly doubt you'll notice any difference. It's a 4WD and the suspension is stiff. Struts aren't going to change that. They only dampen the suspension, they won't change how it feels unless there is considereable bounce or rocking.

 

I'm not so inclined. I am disabled (ruled so legally) and I don't have the patience, the time or the physical wherewithal to deal with that myself.

 

Understandable then.

 

I know I have serious vacuum leak. I could describe the symptom(s) here but that would take too much time. I have a cracked plastic thingie that I don't know the name of, that has 5 ports (maybe they're called nipples) that vacuum lines go to. Or come out of. I have photos of it.

 

That's a vacuum valve for the carb metering ports. It goes by-by with a Weber.

 

I was/am already prepared to give up the car for several days to get everything done that I want, and to buy all the new parts I can obtain. Yes, new.

 

You're talking about more than the car is worth again. There are 16 dozen parts inside that dash and if you replace them all it's going to be a kings ransom and most of them would never fail if you drove the car another million miles. Likely many of the components are unavailible and replacing them with used one's wouldn't do any good unless they aren't working. If there is a specific symptom you want repaired then that is different. You are talking about rebuilding the car from scratch and that just isn't feasible - you simply won't find anyone willing to do it for a price you'll like.

 

There are some funky electrical problems.

 

Electrical is no problem. I have wireing diagrams, a DMM, and I'm not afraid to use it.

 

I am willing to do that. And get rid of all the emission stuff I don't need.

 

I think that's your first step then. Order a Weber kit for the EA82. They run about $350 - $400. Discount Import Parts can order you one. http://www.discountimportparts.com/

 

I will PM/IM you.

 

Sounds good.

 

I will say though, that the things you want to do, and the amount of money you will have to spend - you can get a nice 1st gen Legacy for about $2000 and never have to worry about most of this stuff. And we haven't even talked about the mechanical stuff that you aren't familair with yet - the EA82 has a voracious appetite for timing belts, and then there's the water pump, oil pump, and various other seals and gaskets that should be done by this age. For half what it's going to cost to fix your '86 you could have a nice 93 or 94, do some regular maintenance, and drive another 100,000 miles without a care in the world.

 

GD

[Subarule]

GENERAL DISORDER - check your private messages.

 

S.