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my '84 hatch...


scoobyclimbs
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here's my MAF adapter from ebay I found for $16 . Since I can't use the legacy airbox (not enough room) . I will use a 3" WR V-2 foam cone air filter with my K & N precharger wrap . There is just enough room for the purge canister.

 

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Note: the battery is removed from the passenger side.

 

The drivers side shows where I removed the jack holder to make room for the battery.

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Note the motor mount holes needed to be elongated to the outside as the legacy mounts sit abit farther apart.

The exhuast almost fits . I need to cut and move the cat over about 2" to the drivers side to clear the x-member/strutbar mounts.

Edited by scoobyclimbs
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what your not going to snorkle it?

 

I had thought about ...but I need it to work for now...lots to do perhaps when spring rolls around my budget is really tight....

 

Everything in this swap so far is from upullit or very cheap..

Infact the cone filter I'm going to take from my outback and put the stock airbox on the obw.

 

I'm even thinking of swapping the Perrin crank pulley from my outback to put on the ej22 (saves 8lbs of weight up front plus the ej22 will crank the rpms faster due less recipricating weight) I love mine..):grin:

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I had thought about ...but I need it to work for now...lots to do perhaps when spring rolls around my budget is really tight....

 

Everything in this swap so far is from upullit or very cheap..

Infact the cone filter I'm going to take from my outback and put the stock airbox on the obw.

 

I'm even thinking of swapping the Perrin crank pulley from my outback to put on the ej22 (saves 8lbs of weight up front plus the ej22 will crank the rpms faster due less recipricating weight) I love mine..):grin:

 

OH! yeah just get it in and running. :)

 

so if you don't mind me asking about how much has it cost you to do this swap? i'm thinking real hard about doing it to my grey wagon, it could sure use the extra power. not that i need more power to break more stub axles, i'm just tired of going up mt. hood and other high climbs at 30-35 mph. :mad:

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OH! yeah just get it in and running. :)

 

so if you don't mind me asking about how much has it cost you to do this swap? i'm thinking real hard about doing it to my grey wagon, it could sure use the extra power. not that i need more power to break more stub axles, i'm just tired of going up mt. hood and other high climbs at 30-35 mph. :mad:

 

 

Several hundred dollars under $500 so far...

Keep in mind I have done all my own welding /fab /some machine work my self..(except redrilled flywheel,ea/ej dapter plate.)so that saves alot. Including cutting down my own harness...

Upullit/craigslist/ebay..to get your deals..sometimes usmb..

 

The power will be nice for sandlake... up passes....(don't have to rejet carb over 5,000ft)

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well haven't been to sandlake yet but having the extra power for passes and just plain climbing is a must but i probably won't be able to do it until after the first of next year. but then i don't want to lay the car up during the winter.

so how hard is it to do the wiring? thats the part i'm most concerned with just because i don't the car sitting to long atleast no more then a month or two.

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well haven't been to sandlake yet but having the extra power for passes and just plain climbing is a must but i probably won't be able to do it until after the first of next year. but then i don't want to lay the car up during the winter.

so how hard is it to do the wiring? thats the part i'm most concerned with just because i don't the car sitting to long atleast no more then a month or two.

 

I'm a noob when it comes to wiring and I could do it to my Loyale, the EA81 should be alot easier with less crap to have to splice into. And yes the power is nice:grin:

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I did abit of thinking about how to route hoses for the ea81 radiator.

First was the 1.5" inlet/outlets to fit the ej22 hoses.

Next was find the best routing... 90* seemed to be the best setup .

I manged to use the legacy lower radiator hose on the inlet and outlets.

It worked perfect..my cost thru macs radiator was only $98

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Now for the cooling fans I used a 12" pusher fan on the passenger side and a 12"puller on the divers side (cost $23 ea from ebay).

Note: the removal of the A/C compressor gave me just enough room .

 

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I also cut the radiator support bracket that ran top to bottom for more clearance.

I managed to save and custom cut the splash guards as well.

The battery was relocated to the drivers side.

 

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Edited by scoobyclimbs
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nice progress! :banana:

 

its coming along nicely. so when are you going on a test run?

 

I've got alot to do still... install my clutch/redrilled flywheel when it arrives(pull motor and reinstall),

cut/weld exhaust, O2 sensor

install fuel pump /hoses.

wire in EJ harness,mount ecu

connect a bypass hose for PS pump as I have no PS rack yet....

maf cone filter , mount

purge canister mount/reroute hoses

throttle cable

misc. hoses/wiring

install coolant overflow bottle

replace R.F cv axle

weld in rear axle bump stops @ torsion bar

convert rear cvs to ea82 cups/doj using ea81 shafts

 

let's just say I'll have a full plate over thxgiving...:lol:

 

I hope to be done for the xmas tree run..

Edited by scoobyclimbs
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I'm a noob when it comes to wiring and I could do it to my Loyale, the EA81 should be alot easier with less crap to have to splice into. And yes the power is nice:grin:

 

One nice thing I discovered doing my SPFI swap in my 84 wagon was that there is already a connector in the body harness that gives you access to 3 key parts of your wiring.

 

It is the FPCU, or Rev Sensor unit. You know, the thing mounted in the drivers footwell, that sends power out to the Fuel Pump and Choke only when Ignition pulse (tach signal) is present. Simply put a male spade on the end of the EJ harness wires and plug it in.

 

You can hook your IG. switched power wires(IG. Relay, ECU, Fuel Pump Relay) to the 12v switched wire in the connector.

 

Your Tach output signal wire in the EJ harness can be plugged into the original tach pulse wire. The signal will feed back to the tachometer for RPM reading.

 

And finally, the wire out of the EJ fuel pump relay(power to pump) can be plugged in at this connector. Thus eleminating the need to run new wiring to the new EJ pump. Simply splice the connector from the original fuel pump onto your new one.

 

That means the only other wiring is grounding of the relays, and tapping a constant battery voltage, which can be done onto the back of the fuse panel. I wired mine to the fuse already labeled ECS.

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Here's a bracket I fabbed up for the pitch stopper

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On the ea81 chassis I had to knock out the existing pitch stopper mount shaft . It was offset too far to be effective . So I put a bolt in place and washers/large nut as a spacer to center the mount more to the drivers side..

I had taken an ea82 pitch stopper and cut/welded the end onto my ea81 pitch stopper.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
happy b-day.

 

so did you get it running?

 

very close...but a bbq steak and a bottle of BRRR! was calling me...lol :slobber:

 

I did hookup all my grounds....a couple more wires...and I'll test fire...

 

Tested the starting system ok..and the fuel pump to prime the system..ok...

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here's my modified gas pedal . I took an ea82 pedal and a ea82 throttle cable(SPFI) . The ea81 pedal is very close so I cut the ea82 end off and welded it on the ea81 pedal.

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here's a pic of the ea82 starter and legacy heater hoses I cut to fit the ea81. note: I had to bend the ej heater line abit to clear the hill holder.

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pic of the ej harness/ fuel filter brackets bolted on .

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Edited by scoobyclimbs
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