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2.5 sohc timing belt question


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We are doing a head gasket and timing belt job on my little brothers car (2000 Outback wagon). I Just wanted to confirm the tooth count, the belt that came w/ the e-bay kit was marked at 47 teeth on the passanger side and 44 on the driver side, the driver side should be a half tooth either way. I read in another post 47 & 43.5, thats what we went with. please sombody confirm these numbers

 

thanks

croak

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Believe it or not, the spec given in the FSM is 46.8 and 43.7, as if you could easily tell that precisely. Assuming the cams and crank seem to be in the right places (which is really the point; tooth count helps verify positioning, and vice-versa), you should be okay.

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Believe it or not, the spec given in the FSM is 46.8 and 43.7, as if you could easily tell that precisely. Assuming the cams and crank seem to be in the right places (which is really the point; tooth count helps verify positioning, and vice-versa), you should be okay.

 

This is where you do find the timing marks on a Genuine Subaru part belt. It should sit at 47 teeth on the passenger cam and at 43 1/2 teeth on the drivers side both measured from the center marking.

 

The last 2 I replaced for neighbors, I used a Gates belt on one, and the other brought a Dayco belt with him. Both were properly marked for the passenger side at 47 teeth from the center, but the drivers side was marked at 44 teeth on both!!!!

 

So with the crank AND cams properly aligned, the drivers side BELT MARK was 1/2 tooth toward the drivers fender. I used a silver marker to make a new mark at the 43 1/2 tooth ( really the valley ) BEFORE I put each belt on. Then after starting and running for about a minute, I shut each down and recheck to ensure the crank & cam marks are still in alignment. After I confirm it's correct, I reassemble the front of the motor.

 

Also On these 2000 and 2002 motors, the cogged or toothed idler, right next to the water pump, felt gritty and a little noisy as I turned it, so I replaced that idler on each of these newer SOHC's.

 

FYI and my $.02 experiences .....

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So with the crank AND cams properly aligned, the drivers side BELT MARK was 1/2 tooth toward the drivers fender. I used a silver marker to make a new mark at the 43 1/2 tooth ( really the valley ) BEFORE I put each belt on. Then after starting and running for about a minute, i shut each down and recheck to ensure the crank & cam marks are still in alignment. After I confirm it's correct, I reassemble the front of the motor.

I would suggest rotating the engine over by hand for two revolutions, recheck marks, then start it up.
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This is where you do find the timing marks on a Genuine Subaru part belt. It should sit at 47 teeth on the passenger cam and at 43 1/2 teeth on the drivers side both measured from the center marking.[...]
Just to make it clear, I wasn't questioning the 47 and 43.5 tooth counts, just finding it amazing that Subaru is as precise as "46.8" and "43.7" when they specify it. I'd certainly expect the marks on a genuine Subaru belt to be correctly positioned.

 

 

I would suggest rotating the engine over by hand for two revolutions, recheck marks, then start it up.
It would take quite a number more than two revolutions for the marks to again be in alignment. The tooth count, however, should remain correct no matter how much the engine has been turned, if nothing has slipped.
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It would take quite a number more than two revolutions for the marks to again be in alignment. The tooth count, however, should remain correct no matter how much the engine has been turned, if nothing has slipped.

Well of course. To clarify, I was referring to the marks on the cams and crank, and should have included tooth count in my answer.

 

But my point was to crank it over by hand in case he got it wrong, so as to not bend the valves by cranking it over with the starter.

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[...]But my point was to crank it over by hand in case he got it wrong, so as to not bend the valves by cranking it over with the starter.
Yes, that could avoid possible trouble. Any excessive resistance would be an indication of a problem. It's easiest to do (and tell if something's wrong) if spark plugs are out at the time.
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