greenleg88 Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 when i reverse out of my driveway.. as soon as i turn the wheel.. it feels liek the tires in the front lock up. and the car slows down a lot... why is that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 when i reverse out of my driveway.. as soon as i turn the wheel.. it feels liek the tires in the front lock up. and the car slows down a lot... why is that? Probably related to:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=91327 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=91328 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 Torque bind Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 when i reverse out of my driveway.. as soon as i turn the wheel.. it feels liek the tires in the front lock up. and the car slows down a lot... why is that? check backin after nthe tranny swap. if you still have a problem worry about it then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbykirb Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 ITS TORQUE BIND! Also could be a sign of solenoid C dying in your transmission!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 ok, i'm embarrassed, i mistook this thread as one by another recent trans issue thread. my mistake, my appologies. to greenleg, it sound like you have torque bind. if this is theonlt problem with your trans, the dealer can fix it for 900 - 1000$. if you get a used extention housing from a junk yard, it can be done for about 500$ plus thecost of the part. or you and get all new parts, duty c plus transfer clutch plates for about 200$ and either do it yourself, or pay someone about 500 - 600$ to do it. does the binding go away when you install the FWD fuse, passenger side ubder the hood near the fire wall. john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenleg88 Posted August 16, 2008 Author Share Posted August 16, 2008 ok, i'm embarrassed, i mistook this thread as one by another recent trans issue thread. my mistake, my appologies. to greenleg, it sound like you have torque bind. if this is theonlt problem with your trans, the dealer can fix it for 900 - 1000$. if you get a used extention housing from a junk yard, it can be done for about 500$ plus thecost of the part. or you and get all new parts, duty c plus transfer clutch plates for about 200$ and either do it yourself, or pay someone about 500 - 600$ to do it. does the binding go away when you install the FWD fuse, passenger side ubder the hood near the fire wall. john hey thanks for the info, and im not 100% sure if it still does the same thing when i install a fuse and back out of my driveway... i know that theres a stuttering which i also started a thread about... and i know the stutter doesnt go away when i put the fuse in and turn in a tight circle... and how important is it to fix this? if i just drive on it for about another 20k miles... would that be bad.......? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 hey thanks for the info, and im not 100% sure if it still does the same thing when i install a fuse and back out of my driveway... i know that theres a stuttering which i also started a thread about... and i know the stutter doesnt go away when i put the fuse in and turn in a tight circle... and how important is it to fix this? if i just drive on it for about another 20k miles... would that be bad.......? Very bad. It can cause you to loose control of the car in wet weather, cause premature wear of the tires, could damage the CV joints and the universal joints. You may not even be able to drive the car another few 1000 miles, as the torque bind gets worse. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbykirb Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 Very bad. It can cause you to loose control of the car in wet weather, cause premature wear of the tires, could damage the CV joints and the universal joints. You may not even be able to drive the car another few 1000 miles, as the torque bind gets worse. nipper Transmission can just die Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 Transmission can just die That too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbykirb Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 That too Ask me how I know . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenleg88 Posted August 16, 2008 Author Share Posted August 16, 2008 hmm.. well then in that case.. how sure are you all that it is torque bind... cuz i recall someone saying that if i put the fuse in the fwd socket and the stutter goes away.... than it is torque bind.. although i understand all the symtpons point to torque bind, when i put hte fuse in and drove hte car, the stutter was still there... does that indicate something else? i really just need the car for another year or two.. and i REALLY REALLY dont want to drop 600+ dollars to fix it if someone believes it could make it.. i just put 700 into fixing all sorts of oil leaks. and i would realyl rather save the money if at all possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 Change the tranny fluid at least 3 times in a row. It's easy do-it-yourself job, there's a 17mm drain plug on the transmission pan, and you fill it through the dipstick on the drivers side of the car by the brake master cylinder. Change it, drive it a couple miles, change it again, repeat. Use Mercon/DextronIII ATF. Changing the fluid is the easiest way to try and cure this. If the Duty C solenoid fails, the AT light will flash on startup. If the fluid changes don't fix it, then you need to replace the clutchpack. As for continuing to drive it, you can remove the rear section of the driveshaft and use it as a FWD car. Driving with bad torque bind is the equivalent of driving an old pickup on the road locked into 4wd= not good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenleg88 Posted August 18, 2008 Author Share Posted August 18, 2008 Change the tranny fluid at least 3 times in a row. It's easy do-it-yourself job, there's a 17mm drain plug on the transmission pan, and you fill it through the dipstick on the drivers side of the car by the brake master cylinder. Change it, drive it a couple miles, change it again, repeat. Use Mercon/DextronIII ATF. Changing the fluid is the easiest way to try and cure this. If the Duty C solenoid fails, the AT light will flash on startup. If the fluid changes don't fix it, then you need to replace the clutchpack. As for continuing to drive it, you can remove the rear section of the driveshaft and use it as a FWD car. Driving with bad torque bind is the equivalent of driving an old pickup on the road locked into 4wd= not good. alright thanks a lot. so what is it only bad when the stutter happens? or is it really happening all the time? cept i just dont notice it? when is it doing ht emost damage to the car? Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 alright thanks a lot. so what is it only bad when the stutter happens? or is it really happening all the time? cept i just dont notice it? when is it doing ht emost damage to the car? Thanks in advance If you can constantly drive in a straight line, you will cause no damage. Anytime you turn the steering wheel, there is damage occuring. Of course when you hit that telephone pole on a rainy day because the AWD is locked up, that is also damage. The front axle and rear axle turn at differnt speeds whenever the steering wheel is turned. In an auto the clutch pack is the one that does that. When the clutch pack has failed for whatever reason, you loose this ability, and can make for some very interesting handling. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenleg88 Posted August 19, 2008 Author Share Posted August 19, 2008 If you can constantly drive in a straight line, you will cause no damage. Anytime you turn the steering wheel, there is damage occuring. Of course when you hit that telephone pole on a rainy day because the AWD is locked up, that is also damage. The front axle and rear axle turn at differnt speeds whenever the steering wheel is turned. In an auto the clutch pack is the one that does that. When the clutch pack has failed for whatever reason, you loose this ability, and can make for some very interesting handling. nipper mm..... that does sound like an unpleasant problem to have... so the clutch pack is like 5-600 to replace? i was trying to change the atf this afternoon but the drain plug on the pan is SOOOOOOO tight... it bent the ratchet when i tried loosening it... im putting it up on my friends lift in the morning and putting a six foot pipe to the ratchet... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenleg88 Posted August 19, 2008 Author Share Posted August 19, 2008 also, there is an atf filter that can be changed right? its like 35 dollars? can someone confirm that? and i tried looking for ATF gaskets... and i couldnt find any for the 97.. only pre 96... does that mean its reusable? thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted August 19, 2008 Share Posted August 19, 2008 you don't drop the pan, so you don't need a gasket. the filter is a mesh screen up till 1999, when it went to an external spin on filter. you don't need to replace it. take out drainbolt, the 17mm one on the pan, not the 21 or so MM plug on the front differential. Drain, refill, drive repeat. Smacking the wrench with a hammer to turn it often gives a shock loading that will brake drain bolts loose. Keep it simple! Change the fluid a few times and don't wongleflute with anything else. Drive in some figure 8's, power in the X, coast in the turns, that helps slip the transfer clutch and get fresh fluid in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 19, 2008 Share Posted August 19, 2008 What he said. Removing the pan just makes alot more headaches. Do four drain, fill, then drives. This circulates fresh oil through the transmission. 1-drain 2-fill 3-start car and put the car through each gear selection and count to 5 each time. 4-drive down the block then repeat. Lets see how that works out. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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