steps in removing rear axle 1987 Gl

[GBANGER]

Hey, had a suspicion my right rear wheel bearing was on the way out, jacked it up tightened the castle nut and wheel nuts and still had plenty of play. Not good and got worse stranded with a growling, smoking, angry hub halfway to tahoe. Now after hours of avoiding tow trucks i need to get it fixed.

I want to go to a P&Pull and get an axle rather than replacing the hub and bearings new.

I gather i'll need a hammer, punch, pliers and socket 36mm. but without a manual (only have the factory engine section) i'm not sure on the steps or what could go wrong with the plan.

Any help much appreciated. Cheers

[GeneralDisorder]

The axle is seperate from the stub, which is what joins with the bearings in the knuckle. You use a 3/16" pin punch to remove the roll pin that holds the axle to the stub. They can be VERY difficult to remove from the stub. It's just like the splined connection on the front inner DOJ at the transmission. But the rear interface tends to rust in place and they can be almost impossible to seperate at times. They sometimes require an oxy-torch to get them moving.

 

Also the bearings will be totally destroyed removing them from the swing arm.

 

And if that isn't enough, you need a special subaru specific pin socket to remove the ring nut that holds them in.

 

For all these reasons I sugest you pull an entire swing arm assembly complete with rear axle and replace the whole thing. Then you only need to disconnect the strut, swing arm, and pull the axle off the diff (usually much easier than the bearing end as it's higher and out of the road spray). You can keep your brakes if you can get them off in one piece but it would be easier to just use the junk yard brakes as well. Make sure you find one that the drum easily comes off and replace the shoes/clean it up before you use it. Then just bleed that wheel after you connect the brake line.

 

GD

[torxxx]

if u are going to the junk yard to pull those parts, bring a 7/32" punch it fits the hole exactly. I've ran into problems with parts cars and the rust. I've had the 3/16 punch go into the inside of the roll pin and actually spread it open to where u couldnt get the pin out at all

 

I second getting an entire control arm instead of trying to get a bearing out.

I've changed my control arms in teh back 4 times on each side and never changed the bearing itself

[GBANGER]

cheers for the advice guys, i pulled one out of p&pull but used my cv axle, not sure if the axle sustained any damage when the bearing was fried as the wheel was moving a fair bit. Seems to be good so far. I didn't have the right punch but the long headlight adjusting screw fits perfectly and banged it out no worries.

Would have used the wrecker cv but the boot was torn and it was the only model that matched mine. Brake lines were the biggest pain in the rump roast.

Hopefully it still rolls along for a while.

Cheers G

[McDave]

cheers for the advice guys, i pulled one out of p&pull but used my cv axle, not sure if the axle sustained any damage when the bearing was fried as the wheel was moving a fair bit. Seems to be good so far. I didn't have the right punch but the long headlight adjusting screw fits perfectly and banged it out no worries.

That's some good ingenuity there! I hope you kept that 'tool'.

[Frank B]

I didn't have the right punch but the long headlight adjusting screw fits perfectly and banged it out no worries.

 

Good tip for roadside repairs!