gregvdd Posted August 22, 2008 Share Posted August 22, 2008 Hi Again Can torque bind (duty C solenoid failure) happen in neutral ?? Even in a straight line and going down my street in neutral I can have that shuddering from the rear :-\ Thanks Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suzam Posted August 22, 2008 Share Posted August 22, 2008 I not sure if it can do what you are asking. Have you tried a fuse in the FWD socket in the engine compartment to see if the symptom goes away? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregvdd Posted August 22, 2008 Author Share Posted August 22, 2008 Yes I have tried this too...absolutly no difference :-\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted August 22, 2008 Share Posted August 22, 2008 Technically, the binding should be able to occur in neutral if the duty C solenoid is not activated, or if it fails to activate, or if the clutch pack just plain old binds. But, while going in a straight line? Either you have wheels of different size, or its not torque bind. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregvdd Posted August 22, 2008 Author Share Posted August 22, 2008 I have checked the wheels they looks the same, same michelin...and didn't mesure them but thread seem to be the same...If not the solenoid...what could that be ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted August 23, 2008 Share Posted August 23, 2008 I have checked the wheels they looks the same, same michelin...and didn't mesure them but thread seem to be the same...If not the solenoid...what could that be ??Measuring the circumference of each tire isn't a bad idea -- but if there's binding and it's bad enough, even a significant difference of inflation pressure in otherwise similar tires can cause problems. If you have alloy wheels, especially ones that have seen much road salt, they tend to get corroded and not hold air for very long. By the way, 16 flashes of the ATF temperature warning lamp only indicates an electrically-related transmission problem, but not specifically what it is. Have you read the trans code(s) yet, or are you assuming that duty solenoid C is the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregvdd Posted August 23, 2008 Author Share Posted August 23, 2008 I will measure the circumference, no alloys, just steelies. ANd yes the AT oil temp is flashing 16 times... But why do I have the problem in neutral ?? that's really strange, ist'nt it ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5GL Posted August 23, 2008 Share Posted August 23, 2008 Not really, considering that you most likely have a mechanical failure of the clutches... more specifically, the hub which "drives" the clutches from the inside. The hub has grooves worn into it from the clutches, and the clutches can't release. This condition would be more noticeable if the tires aren't all matching to less than 1/8" circumfrence between any tire, assuming brand, model, size, and pressure match. Duty solenoid "C" will show as "24" when the Codes are pulled from TCU correctly... 16 straight flashes just tells you there is a problem, 24 would be two long flashes followed by four short ones, kinda like morse code. See this thread for more info... Lewis http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78467 titled: "More on Torque Bind" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregvdd Posted August 23, 2008 Author Share Posted August 23, 2008 The problem has just been sorter ANd guess what ? it was just an dead rear shock :-\ no more strange noise but still have the AT OIL temp flashing 16 times, and nothing happens with the 2wd fuse:confused: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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