Valkyrie Posted August 28, 2008 Share Posted August 28, 2008 This is my first post. Did a search couldn't find my answer. passenger side cam seal, does it mater how deep it is installed? I just installed it not realizing how deep it was going in. It is much deeper than the driver side seal which is basically flush with the head. Presently doing timing belt change @ 115k, using the OEM 105k ca belt verses the stock 60k belt. was cheaper than than the 60k belt at the dealer. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVOthis Posted August 28, 2008 Share Posted August 28, 2008 first of all welcome....well....it should go in as deep as the old one was....but you can usually feel it bottom out.....every cam seal on a Subie ive ever done i just tapped it in until i felt it bottom out and ive never had a problem....when you get the chance pick up a Haynes manual....very helpful......also dont forget to do the crank seal, cam cap o-rings, pulleys, and tensioner while your in there....might also want to consider the H20 pump and resealing the oil pump...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valkyrie Posted August 28, 2008 Author Share Posted August 28, 2008 That's my question, it bottoms out much deeper than the driver side one does. The original was leaking (brought car w/84k) and was not all of the way in, but was flush. Is it going to leak or wear out quicker if it is bottomed out like I have it now? Is it suppose to bottom out? If I follow haynes then it shouldn't be bottomed out. Usually when I have done seals of this type before, u bottom it like u said and then it ends up being about flush like the crank seal (was leaking also) and the trans end seal I did 2 yrs ago. I have everything that u noted. Not touching the oil pump, no leaks and most things I have read indicate that the 2.5 engines have the problem with the plates screws backing out and not for the 2.2. Will be using a GMB wp, 1 yr warranty and made better than oem specs. Thanks for the help first of all welcome....well....it should go in as deep as the old one was....but you can usually feel it bottom out.....every cam seal on a Subie ive ever done i just tapped it in until i felt it bottom out and ive never had a problem....when you get the chance pick up a Haynes manual....very helpful......also dont forget to do the crank seal, cam cap o-rings, pulleys, and tensioner while your in there....might also want to consider the H20 pump and resealing the oil pump...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVOthis Posted August 28, 2008 Share Posted August 28, 2008 i believe that is normal were it bottoms out deeper.....if i remember correctly the cam cap is on the drivers side front which might make it seem it is deeper....as i said i tried to go by the haynes manual the first one i did and it didnt seem COMPLETELY right to me so i figure its not that far between were they say its supposed to be and the bottom of it so i just gave it a few extra taps.....also why would they make the hole that recess all that big if they didnt want you to bottom it out?.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psyko Posted August 28, 2008 Share Posted August 28, 2008 I did them on my '95 Legacy EJ22. Exact same situation as you, the one went in a little deeper. I had an "oh crap I screwed it up moment" and then told myself it had to work because I didn't have time to do it over. The car drove to Texas, from Washington, and has been running around down there, with no issues, for a few months now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted August 29, 2008 Share Posted August 29, 2008 When I do cam seals I go flush with the openeing. I also grease them a little to make them slide in easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svxpert Posted August 30, 2008 Share Posted August 30, 2008 <<Presently doing timing belt change @ 115k, >> <<Not touching the oil pump,>> you might want to rethink that. your original oil pump most likely isn't going to last another 105,000. its only a $60 part anyway... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valkyrie Posted August 31, 2008 Author Share Posted August 31, 2008 what is wearing on the pump that will make it fail? seals? bearings? not real familiar how the pump is running off the crank. thanks On side note, picked up an oem WP today. The GMB wp had a low tech impeller compared to the oem high efficent type impeller. the gmb is going back you might want to rethink that. your original oil pump most likely isn't going to last another 105,000. its only a $60 part anyway... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aircraft engineer Posted August 31, 2008 Share Posted August 31, 2008 oil pumps USUALLY won't wear out (too well lubed.) What you sort of need to do is to pull it off when you do the belt and measure the clearances. "Got your clearance, Clarence?" Then it's good to go. Remember to loctite the screws when you put it back together (good idea to loctite the screws anyway - so take them out and loctitie them and they won't loosen - use red if you have it but blue should hold well enough) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now