EA-82 Oil Change, Brakes

[Quidam]

Hey,

 

I changed the oil and brakes about a year ago in my '86 GL DR 5 speed wagon. I changed the filter twice and topped off the oil as needed during the year. It doesn't burn any noticable ammount but the drivers side cam seal weeps a little. No leaks at all. The car has about 120K miles on it. It's time to do both again. I ran 10-30 oil last time, I put this in today:

 

The motor would carry 45 psi oil pressure at 3000 rpm hot on the road. It's a carb motor but with good gas and the timing bumped it will rev and pull to 7000 rpm. 6000 factory redline.

 

The car has small tires, I don't carry around a lot of stuff, and gets 30 mpg on the highway. It has no air conditioning equipment firewall foreward. I removed it all. Has manual steering rack. No roof rack at all unless I put my Thule on. That costs me a couple miles per gallon, last time I checked. I run one fan belt, tires pumped to 32 psi. Modified Hitachi, exhaust no cat. It has those light bumpers on it as well. Haven't had it on the scales, but it's light for a wagon.

 

The brakes. I live in the hills. I'm not easy on brakes. Run through a set in a year, about 12000 miles.

 

I had to fill the master cylinder twice during the year when the dash "Brake" light came on. I filled it two days ago. Today I got the ole front disk pad squeel:)

 

Time for a change.

 

Later on,

 

Doug

 

I've got the new pads and rotors in stock. I ordered a brake caliper kit for the right front from RockAuto. Crap. Forgot to order the rear shoes. Ordered a bunch of other stuff tho. I love RockAuto:).

[GeneralDisorder]

I tend to avoid oils with that much viscosity modifier in them.

 

0w is designed to flow at -35 degrees.... do you really need that kind of low temp oil? 10w is good to -25...

 

GD

[Quidam]

I tend to avoid oils with that much viscosity modifier in them.

 

0w is designed to flow at -35 degrees.... do you really need that kind of low temp oil? 10w is good to -25...

 

GD

 

We do get that cold here, just never know when. I'm not sure GD but decided to give it a go, see what happens. It could be a cold wet winter here. I actually wanted to try 0w20.

 

I like what I saw from this oil in a tight 364 c.i. Chevy.

 

Doug

[dhise]

I recently tried a 0w-30 oil and it made the lifters tick a little more than usual so I went back to the good 'ol 10w40 for a nice quiet motor.

[GeneralDisorder]

I recently tried a 0w-30 oil and it made the lifters tick a little more than usual so I went back to the good 'ol 10w40 for a nice quiet motor.

 

10w40 also has a lot of vicosity modifier in it. I also would not reccomend you run an SAE 40 in a Subaru engine. The tollerances are just too tight (less than .001") and they don't open up much at all with age. 10w30 is specified for the life of the engine for a reason.

 

If you have ticking lifters then I sugest addressing the cause of the ticking. Heavy oil may mask it for a while but I would rather listen to the ticking and end up replacing some lifters or the oil pump than have the bottom end eat itself.

 

I've experienced a Subaru rod letting go and it's not a pretty scene at all. I've also torn down a few EA series engines and seen what the tollerances are like in them. Thus I give you my experienced opinion.

 

GD

[Quidam]

I'm not sure GD but decided to give it a go, see what happens. It could be a cold wet winter here. I actually wanted to try 0w20.

 

I like what I saw from this oil in a tight 364 c.i. Chevy.

 

Doug

 

Hey,

 

The 0W-20 would have been a mistake.

 

Here's what happened.

 

I've put some miles on it. Keep in mind I had 10W-30, Mobile 1 in it on one 90 degree F. day.

 

I put the 0W-30 Mobile 1 in it and the same 90 degree day:

 

Get this, at 3000 r.p.m. on the highway: It carried 45 p.s.i. with the 10W-30.

 

It carries 3/32" below 45 p.s.i. with the 0W30.

 

Consistant with what I've observed in the Chevy. There's a clue there:). That's with the factory gague and it's nominally accurate, it seems.

 

However. With the 0W-30. When the engine it going for 5500 r.p.m., the oil pressure stops climbing a tick above 45 p.s.i. .

 

Good enough for a driver, which it is.

I would not run it hard, for long that way.

 

I want no less than 10 p.s.i. per 1000 r.p.m. in something I'm going to work hard or beat on. Or a racing engine. I might even want a little more than that.

 

Doug