Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Recommended Posts

I am going to replace the drivers side CV joint on my 00 Outback this weekend. Last year I replaced the passenger side one and the pinch bolt that holds the steering knuckle to the ball joint was an absolute **** to get off. When the car was built they did not put anti-seize or anything on the bolts so they are exteremly easy to strip and can be a huge problem to get out. Anybody else have similar experiences? I've been spraying it down with PB blast for the past couple of days in hopes that it may make it easier. Any other ideas?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am going to replace the drivers side CV joint on my 00 Outback this weekend. Last year I replaced the passenger side one and the pinch bolt that holds the steering knuckle to the ball joint was an absolute **** to get off. When the car was built they did not put anti-seize or anything on the bolts so they are exteremly easy to strip and can be a huge problem to get out. Anybody else have similar experiences? I've been spraying it down with PB blast for the past couple of days in hopes that it may make it easier. Any other ideas?

 

don't mess with the pinch bolt. there are other ways to r&r the axle. i undo the sway bar link, the steering tie rod at the hub and the bolt on the bottom of the hub, not the pinch bolt. some don't even undo the tierod end.

 

another option is to mark the the strut to hub bolts and undo them. that way you can put it back together exactly the way you found it and hopefuly won't have to pay for an alignment.

 

do a search.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

EJ axles are really easy. All you need to do is not remove so much stuff. once the wheel is off you only need to remove ONE BOLT other than the axle nut to replace an axle. I've done multiple Impreza's and Legacy's like this, they're all the same so far.

 

Remove the axle nut, remove the top strut mount bolt and loosen the bottom strut mount bolt. the hub will pivot far enough out to remove and replace the axle. Yes it's tight...but it's so easy and not worth messing with other parts that it's worth the 75 seconds to properly remove the axle.

 

Be sure to mark the position of the top strut bolt HEAD (not the nut), as the bolt is cambered and affects alignment. I just chisel a mark in it and the strut bracket and make sure the head is in the same position when reinstalled, very simple.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yah I gave up on the pinch bolt....I could not budge it without fear of it snapping.....which has happened to many many an individual. Undid the strut to bearing housing bolts instead and checked camber afterwards.

 

How's about a bunch of pics? this is from my '00obw job with an MWE axle:

splitboot1.jpg

axle-old-00obw-700.jpg

axle-new-mwe-00obw-700.jpg

axlenut1-sm.jpg

breakergo.jpg

extract1.jpg

impact1.jpg

extracted1.jpg

punchrollpin1.jpg

rollpin1-sm.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...