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installing torque converter bolts?????


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so i finally got the 2.5 out and the 2.2 in on my 97GT swap.

 

the hardest things coming out were the driver side lower bell housing nut, had to remove the steering to rack universal to have room to get it out; and the bolts connecting the torque converter to the flex plate. i ended up pulling the whole thing forward until they cleared the cross member and then unbolting them.

 

so my question is how in the world do i get them back in and torqued to spec???? obviously i have to "seat" the torque converter before i slide the engine in, but now i'm stuck with no access.

 

how do you do it?????:eek:

 

i made one mistake in the process, i removed the steering rack because of a torn boot, and i was so excited to get the new engine in, i forgot to reinstall the rack while the engine was out. it would have been sooo easy to get the rack in and the steering linkage connected with the wheels & sterring wheel straight. oh well, it came out with the engine in i guess it can go back while the engine is in.

 

any help on the flex plate bolts would be great.

 

thanks,

john

 

PS: seating the torque converter is really easy as long as you know you have to seat it the second/third time. many thanks to mnwolftrack for his great how to!! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81925&highlight=seat+torque+converter

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Do the newer 2.2's have the access hole on the top - back, under the intake?

 

If so, that's where I've done mine on a '90 and '93 Legacy. I moved/removed a few hoses/wires and the intake stuff to get @ it.

 

I'm looking to do the swap - 2.2>>>'98 OB (yes, another blown HG) - in the next couple weeks, too.

 

Good luck.

 

Td

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I'm sure there is a procedure here for the TC bolts.

 

Just remember to get all 4 started before tightening any of them. And stuff a rag in the hole incase you 'loose' one.

 

One hand on the breaker bar on the crank bolt and the other on the ratchet on teh TC bolt is how I do it. Don't know what the real torque would be or how you'd ever be able to get a torque wrench in there to measure it anyways.

 

I bought a snap-on 1/4" swivel head ratchet just for this use.

 

That lower drivers 14mm nut isn't so bad with a swivel socket and some long extensions - but it's definately the toughest.

 

I always anti-seize everything incase I ever have to remove it again.

 

Dave

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thanks for the tips. the top access was so tight during removal, it seemed to be too tight. but going back together it's the onlt way to go. so i'll just have to make it work.

 

there is no way in he11 taht i could ever make a living doing this kind of work!!!!!!!!!:eek:

 

it's a good thing i enjoy it.:grin:

 

thanks again.

 

john

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Here is a tip on a 2.5>2.2 swap. When you put the TC bolts in thread them in all the way before you spin the engine over to put the next one in. The back of the 2.2 block is shaped slightly different inside the bellhousing. When you put the larger 2.5 flexplate on the 2.2 the bolts will hit the webs inside the block and lock up tight if the bolts aren't all the way in. Then you have to pull the motor back up to get it to spin. Guess how I know this? :lol:

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The tool for the job is a Craftsman 12mm/14mm offset box wrench. The space is too small for a socket wrench (unless you use a 1/4" drive, which would not give you enough torque), and a straight box wrench does nto go all the way over the bolts. As you work more on these engines, you will find that this tool will, over time, become one of your favorites.

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^^^ That works well. You can also get the bolts in/out with a 3/8 drive flexhead ratchet and a short socket. Let the side of the socket rest against the opening in the bellhousing for leverage. Unplug the TPS, IAC and coil wires and move them and the main engine harness plugs out of the way for extra room.

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