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1985 Fuel or Spark Issue? Won't start cold? Ran great for test drive before buying???


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Okay sorry for posting a 2nd thread but my other thread is rather long and this is sort of off topic from "which car should I buy"...

 

I want to buy this 1985 Subaru GL. Naturally Aspirated (carb) with a 5sp.

 

I had a friend go look at it for me last wednesday because I had to work and he said it drove GREAT! He said it had enough power to cruise up hills in 3rd gear... ( I live at 6200 feet elevation so this was a concern of mine)

 

When I went to buy it - it wouldn't start. It was cold outside and it almost seemed like a fuel issue? We found that the carburetor was stuck wide open, and we had been cranking it for about 30secs like that before we found that out.

 

We got the throttle to close (linkage was binding on a hose) and it fired up but then died/shut off immediatley.

 

After a little more tinkering, we got it to start and run for about 10-20 secs as i feathered the throttle. But as soon as I let off, it died again... I know it was getting gas as it even backfired a few times out the carburetor while we were cranking it - a sign that there is gas and possibly a flooded manifold?

 

The guy said he thinks it needs a new carburetor - but that didn't sound right to me? Carburetors don't just stop working - sure they get dirty, but you wouldn't need a NEW carburetor - you could clean the old one?

 

What has me confused is it seems to be an intermitent problem? Like last Wed. my buddy drove it all over and it ran great, idled great, no problems. Now it won't even start?

 

The owner said he had fuel issues with it and ultimatley just gave his daughter the extra car they had... and that is why they are selling this one?

 

 

Should I buy this? It seems to me to be an easy fix? Maybe cap/roter/spark plugs? Or possibly cleaning the carb and linkages???

 

He is extremely negotiable on the price and I could probably walk away with it (since it doesn't drive right now:grin:) for $300-400. I figure i'll get it started and get it to my house 10 miles away.

 

Thanks for any tips...

Edited by Sierradump
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Thanks for the advice!

 

For the sake of getting it started to get it home for proper repair is there anything I can do to get it started? Any "band-aid" tricks??? how do I check the choke? I want it completely closed on the front barrel/butterfly when cold correct? Could I give it a shot of starter fluid to see if I can get it started???

 

Whats a pull off???? You mention to check it?

 

 

ALSO - Does this car have OBD? Is it possilbe that the issue is a crank or cam position sensor? There is no check engine light on or anything - but I spent the last hour searching on here and most of the "won't start" threads were from cam/crank sensors! This is an 1985 so I don't even know if it has those sensors or not!

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Assuming the choke isn`t closed enough,4-5 pumps of the throttle before starting should richen it enough to start.Since it idled normally for your friend,warming it up for 5 minutes w/your foot on the throttle may suffice.

 

Choke should be closed if quite cold.Vacuum pull off diaphram will open choke slightly as soon as engine starts.Make sure it holds vacuum/moves the choke.

 

With the aircleaner removed,you can manipulate the choke w/a pencil to hopefully find the optimum position.BEWARE of intake BACKFIRES!

 

No cam sensors etc.

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So this year Subaru (1985) doesn't have any cam or crank sensors etc to worry about?

 

The Wagon fired up a few times when I went to look at it but would only idle while feathering throttle then would even die sometimes while feathering throttle.

 

it would backfire out the carb at the end of cranking when it didn't start starting...

 

I think the timing is good as when it did start (while feathering throttle) it sounded good/healthy.

 

I am sort of thinking it may be spark related??? Maybe the coil or distributor? Does this make sense? As there was fuel squirting out of the carburetor when pumping accelerator.

 

 

I am going this afternoon to look at it again so any advice or things to look at check would be REALLY appreciated!

 

Thanks again!

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No cam/crank sensors.

Could well be a spark issue.At a minimum,I would pull at least a couple plugs for inspection-maybe take a fresh set with you.Measure plug wire resistance w/a multimeter if you have one.Pull and inspect the disty cap.

 

See if you can get a look at the fuel level in the sight glass in the carb(may require a mirror-don`t remember)

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Okay I bought the car and had it towed home. When I got it home it took me all of 4 minutes to get it started! It turns out there was a hose that runs to the carburetor that WAS NOT attached, it looks like a vaccum hose. Once I attached it, I sprayed a shot of starter fluid in the carb just to get it to crank/fire a few times to prime the system - but it actually fired right up and with a little feathering of the throttle it ran and I drove it around the block a few times.

 

The carburetor definitley needs to be cleaned up. It is gunked up and something has the accellerator sticking at WOT where the spring won't pull it back down.

 

But other than that I can't complain for $400!!! Hopefully it turns out to be a great winter commuter for my 2mile round trip to work!

 

BEATS FIRING UP MY DIESEL TRUCK EVERYDAY! Probably save that $400 in about 2 months if I use the subaru everyday!

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WOOT!! :banana:

 

That's great news.

 

One of the best sources for parts just closed its doors (South Shore Motors), but I've always had good luck getting parts from the guys (and gal) at NAPA on Harrison, sort of behind Rude Brothers and Subway, at Tallac Ave.

 

That is, if you're in South Shore. :-\

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The carburetor definitley needs to be cleaned up. It is gunked up and something has the accellerator sticking at WOT where the spring won't pull it back down.

 

From your other post about the codes you are getting I can see you have a feedback computer controlled carb system.

 

Trust me - rip it off and install a Weber. It's the only way to fix it. Search for the posts I've made in the past on feedback systems as I don't want to bother covering it again.

 

GD

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