1985 GL Trouble Codes (22, 24, 73) Speedometer pegged at 125mph!!!

[Sierradump]

1985 Subaru GL (carbureted) 5 sp transmission.

 

Got my codes finally flashed, thanks to all who helped me figure this out. Turns out the module with the led that flashes codes was dislodged and pointed up towards steering column and I couldn't see the light at all!!! I had to turn all lights off in my garage (total darkness) and saw a hint of a light!! Repositioned the module (silver box) and was able to pull codes!!!

 

I am getting the following codes, any tips as to what sensors may need to be replaced - or what needs to be looked at?

 

CODES:

(-- 1984 Through 1988 Carbureted Models --)

 

22 --- Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit

 

24 --- coolant temperature sensor or circuit, or Idle-up solenoid or circuit (1984 to 1988 carbureted)

 

73 --- Ignition Pulse System

 

 

Possible issue causing code 22 ???

Not sure if this is an issue but the speedometer hasn't worked since I bought the vehicle - as soon as car starts rolling(1-2mph actual speed), the speedometer pegs itself out to max travel at 125mph and stays there until car stops, it then drops back to 0mph...

 

Possible issue causing code 24 ???

The subaru is rough to start. It cranks and fires but unless I feather the throttle when its cold, it just dies. Once warmed up the vehicle starts normal - but it idles at about 1250 RPM and I believe it is supposed to idle at 700-800 RPM? Possibly this is related to the IDLE-UP solenoid?

 

 

I am clueless to the 73 code!!

 

Any help is much appreciated!

Edited September 27, 2008 by Sierradump

[GeneralDisorder]

22 is related to your broken speedometer (the sensor is inside the speedo head). The seal in the tranny side has gone out and the speedometer is sucking gear oil through the drive cable sheath and into the dash. It's dead - once they suck oil like that they are toast. Best option is to replace the seal, cable, and gauge cluster with a used set from the junk yard.

 

24 indicates you need to replace the CTS for the feedback computer. It's on the manifold somewhere - should be a two-spade sensor threaded into the manifold coolant jacket. You will need one for a feedback carb model.

 

73 is a generic code for the ignition system. It's probably nothing - just clear the codes and see if it comes back first.

 

GD

[Sierradump]

73 is a generic code for the ignition system. It's probably nothing - just clear the codes and see if it comes back first.

 

Thanks for your suggestions, can you tell me how I would reset the codes???

 

Also I found this while searching the code 24: coolant temperature sensor or circuit, or Idle-up solenoid or circuit (1984 to 1988 carbureted) . The subaru is hard to start when cold, and once warm behaves as normal - but idles at around 1250 RPM. Is this possibly related to the IDLE-UP solenoid/circuit?

 

RE: broken speedometer? Is there any way to check/see if it is somehow salvagable? I don't have any oil dripping on the floor above drivers legs? I trust your judgement so if you say replace I will, but the dash is otherwise in pretty good shape!!! Clean with no cracks!

Edited September 27, 2008 by Sierradump

[GeneralDisorder]

Thanks for your suggestions, can you tell me how I would reset the codes???

 

Rip the computer out and rewire the fuel pump relay .

 

There are a set of connectors under the dash near the computer that allow you to put the computer into read-mode, etc. But it's not neccesary as the feedback ECU's don't store codes after they are shut down. Disconnect the battery for a few minutes if you want to make sure.

 

But seriously - there's no fix for the EA82 feedback system but to rip the carb off and throw it in the nearest lake.

 

GD

[GeneralDisorder]

Thanks for your suggestions, can you tell me how I would reset the codes???

 

RE: broken speedometer? Is there any way to check/see if it is somehow salvagable? I don't have any oil dripping on the floor above drivers legs? I trust your judgement so if you say replace I will, but the dash is otherwise in pretty good shape!!! Clean with no cracks!

 

You wouldn't experience any oil in the cabin. The speedo head inside the cluster is where the oil has gone. The parts inside are very small, very old, and very plastic. To clean it would require MORE work than replacing the whole cluster as either way you will have to remove it. The dash itself will stay - only the gauge cluster would be removed and replaced.

 

There's no harm in trying I guess but you are going to have to disassemble the cluster to pull the speedo head out, and the head unit itself is not an easy thing to dismantle. Further you are likely to damage it with anything strong enough to wash away the gear oil. Then after you are done you'll have to install it and see if it even works. Replacement of the cable and seal in the tranny is obviously required as there is no way to clean the cable (it's dry-lubrication has been comprimised), and you don't want this to happen again.

 

GD

[Sierradump]

For code 24 is it possibly related to the IDLE-UP Solenoid/Circuit? I found this while researching code 24: "coolant temperature sensor or circuit, or Idle-up solenoid or circuit (1984 to 1988 carbureted)"

 

Car is hard to start cold (dies unless I feather throttle - once warm it behaves but idles at 1250 RPM)

 

What parts do I need at the junkyard? Guage cluster and speedometer cable?

 

 

Is it possible to rip the computer out? That doesn't bother me if the car will run the same! (also needs to pass CA smog though :-\)

[Sierradump]

Hm in the Haynes Manual it just says that 7 long and 3 short just shows what the car is, 85 4x4 Cali. Maybe its just the default it shows on each car.

 

 

Can anyone confirm this??? I do live in CA and bought the car from a california owner...

[GeneralDisorder]

For code 24 is it possibly related to the IDLE-UP Solenoid/Circuit? I found this while researching code 24: "coolant temperature sensor or circuit, or Idle-up solenoid or circuit (1984 to 1988 carbureted)"

 

Car is hard to start cold (dies unless I feather throttle - once warm it behaves but idles at 1250 RPM)

 

The idle-up solenoid is only used for air conditioning, and is entirely mechanical on these carbs. It cannot set a code. Your hard starting is likely a broken choke spring. The end of the bi-metal spring inside the choke heater housing wears through and falls off leaving the choke butterfly wide open all the time. Someone probably turned the idle speed up a bit due to vacuum leaks or worn throttle shafts making it idle rough or die at the proper 700 RPM speed. You have a classic worn-out feedback carb setup. The carb needs to be completely rebuilt and the throttle shafts rebushed, then you are going to have a hell of a time with the feedback system. Some of the common failure items in the EA82 feedback's are insanely expensive. You'll spend more keeping that system running than the car cost or is worth. Being in CA, you are limited in your options as you can't install a Weber. You could convert to the Single Point Fuel Injection (SPFI), but I don't know what your level of mechanical/electrical knowledge is so that might not be for you. Given where you live and what you have brought home I don't envy your plight. My advice is that you get out from under that money pit of a fuel system and either instal the SPFI, or if your skills aren't ready for that challenge, get into a nice 90 to 94 Legacy with the EJ22. They are dead reliable.

 

What parts do I need at the junkyard? Guage cluster and speedometer cable?

 

Yes - and you'll want to get the seal on the transmission side of the cable from the dealership.

 

Is it possible to rip the computer out? That doesn't bother me if the car will run the same! (also needs to pass CA smog though :-\)

 

You can, but in the EA82's you have to rewire the fuel pump relay as it is controlled by the ECU. The car will run like poo and get mileage in the high teens to low 20's without the computer due to the jetting. If you are so inclined the carb is the same as the non-feedback carbs and can be rejetted to their specifications and will run fine without the ECU that way. This would involve rebuilding the carb which is likely needed anyway.... but it would be illegal in CA so you would have to register in NV or OR probably.

 

GD

[Sierradump]

Hmm,

 

I can do any swaps I want AFTER i get it smogged... I live in a county that only requires smog upon transfer of title - after that I could put a v8 chevy in it and would never have to smog again! However I simply bought it for good gas mileage.

 

I think at this point I will try and clean the carb and associated vacuum hoses and just try to get it to pass smog. I took it to a pre-smog inspection this morning and it was spitting out crazy #'s for HC (like 980ppm)... Its supposed to be around 100-120...

 

Any quick fixes for this to mask the problem just to pass smog? Once I get the certificate I can swap out to SPFI or the Weber carb

[GeneralDisorder]

It could be that the coolant temp sensor is telling the ECU that the engine is cold. Thus the code and the rich mixture. No amount of cleaning will fix the ECU telling the carb to run rich. Fix the codes first then worry about cleaning and adjusting it. Otherwise you can't tell what good your cleaning and adjusting does.

 

If your run part alcohol you will lower your HC numbers. Denatured Alcohol is available at most home improvement places. It runs hot though so don't go over 1/3 alcohol to gasoline to keep it safe.

 

GD

[Sierradump]

Hey I really appreciate you helping me out with this!

 

I notice the car never gets very hot to the touch? The temperature guage constantly stays around 40% (no digits, just a L and H)... Does the temperature gauge run off of the CTS? Just curious as the gauge seems to read accurate? When cold guage is at COLD (marked L on guage)... After 5 mins the gauge slowly rises to about 40% and stays steady.

 

At $400 I would like to try and get it to pass smog and just use as a beater car this winter!

[GeneralDisorder]

There are two sensors - one for the gauge and another for the ECU. They are *probably* the same physical unit, but with two outputs for two seperate circuits. Thus the two-spade terminal connection I mentioned earlier. The ECU side can fail and leave the gauge side working - in fact that's usually the case in my experience.

 

GD

[mountaingoatgruff]

you can upgrade to spfi and still pass ca smog. you just have to call the bureau of automotive repair (1-800-622-7733) and make an appt to see a smog referee to register an engine change. tell him you swapped an entire engine (even though you wouldn't) from an spfi donor car and you can get by on just a fuel system upgrade that way. the current law in ca is that you can swap in a different engine if it is of equal age or newer and it is of equal displacement or greater but fuel system upgrades alone are generally not permitted. he'll check to see that everything is up to spec for the model year of your donor car and that all those emissions systems/components are there and working.

 

i did this to the ea81 in my 84 hatchback and i'm almost done smogging it. the ref noticed its not an ea82 swap but let me by with it when i showed him a printout of a reman'd feedback carb for $550 at autozone. now i just need to pass a sniffer. i got a temp tag through nov once the budget circus shut the b.a.r. & dept of consumer affairs down and haven't tried calling again yet.

 

its not easy and its not cheap, but imo its worth it to upgrade to spfi. my hatch got better heads and lots of needed maint/repairs as part of the upgrade, but its like an entirely different vehicle...hardly notice the bad tranny... if you end up doing it and you need help feel free to ask, i'm up that direction regularly. i couldn't tell you a thing about webers, though...

 

sorry for the novel, just trying to lend a hand.