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out with the old.......


monstaru
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crawl ratio at basic standards is not very good only like 56:1.... when i can get the gears for the t-case it will jump to 162ish to :1

 

mine will be at 52:1 with 4.10s but for the trails I do, it should be fine....

will wait a while for t-case gears if I do them.... though Low Range Off Road has a 8:1 set now :)

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IMG_2334.jpg?t=1229574899

 

i actually got something done today.i will be doing the other front tomorrow. the rears are already done.the drill press worked awesome.the new drill bit(35/64ths) was perfect , and the cutting fluid is my friend.

 

went to town after i had made a jig for the hub to sit in.worked out well..

 

IMG_2337.jpg?t=1229575315

this update brought to you buy a seasonal brew....mmmmmmm

IMG_2340.jpg?t=1229575620just for you jared.:grin:

cheers, brian

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who made the sweet machined strut extensions?

IMG_2311.jpg?t=1229049584

 

a buddy of mine is lifting his brat...strut extensions is all he needs. and we really want to do something like that, instead of blocks on the top.

 

there's no offset to the strut extension like that, so camber would be affected... unless you put in a wider stance front set-up, like ea82 crossmember/control/knuckles/axles etc... to bring geometry back to "normal"

 

or, you could move the stock mounting location in to account for the off set....

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there's no offset to the strut extension like that, so camber would be affected... unless you put in a wider stance front set-up, like ea82 crossmember/control/knuckles/axles etc... to bring geometry back to "normal"

 

or, you could move the stock mounting location in to account for the off set....

 

from what we've been able to tell, and talking to wounded brat (guy in WI that came and picked up the topper, he lifted the front of his brat this way), there isn't a need for the offset. it appears, that the way the geometry is set up, the camber would be pretty accurately maintained by doing it that way.

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If you lift the suspension more than you lift the body from the crossmembers the camber will get screwed up and that can only be fixed with custom fabrication, I found that out on my Brat, part of why i am going to extend the lower arms and use EA82 knuckles and axles. That and to match the track width of my turbo rear end in the back.

-Bill

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Yeah I have the same amount of lift on both so I don't know why? But I want to do the same thing with the EA82 axles etc. But can you just lengthen the control arms or is there more to it? What are your exact plans with the control arms?

 

Well my Brat is a Gen 1, so I am going to use EA81 control arms, for several reasons, but mostly because I will be able to use EA82 knuckles on them. Im going to lengthen them so that the front track width will be the same as that of an EA82 car so I can use the EA82 axles and so it will be the same width as the rear. For radius rods Im thinking about making them bolt towards the front of the car like on the 2wd Toyotas, which should soften out the ride a little bit too. Nothing is set in stone yet, but i plan on working on it after i get my hatch done.

 

Brian, sorry for the Hijack, Get some more progress posted up!

-Bill

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  • 2 weeks later...

so, little progress,but i did get the other front hub drilled.i started making a pattern for the engine crossmember.my new welder should be here in a few days so, i will be making up all of the pieces that i can until it arrrives.

 

i have to go get square tubing for the subframe.

as i do not think i will be using the schedule 40 pipe i have.

 

i am looking at making some longer strut rods as well.

 

just thought i would check in.i will start a fabrication thread when i get some more done,as this thread has gone a little arai.unless there is a supercool moderator that can clean this one up for me....and i know there are several here;).cheers, brian

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well, it seems that the welder i ordered is on backorder.so i am trying to find one local in the same range.hopefully that happens tomorrow.

 

that is pretty much what i am waiting on to get more motivation.

 

now,i do have some pics of the hubs,and can snap some of the patterns.i'll do that in a bit.

 

and as far as actually mounting anything i'll have to wait until we do not get snow for a couple of days,then shovel out the rest of the hatch.seeing as how it is buried under the temp.garage i tried erecting.

let me rephrase that.i erected a temp .garage that was only engineered for about 1/64th of the snow load we have gotten ,and in turn it collapsed.with the hatch under it.

 

we just got another 5 inches this morning.so, when i can gain access to everything it will start wholeheartedly.until then i will do small updates..

 

cheers, brian

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IMG_2363.jpg

hubs drilled.

 

IMG_2364.jpg

 

jig i made to hold the hub

 

IMG_2365.jpg

engine crossmember pattern.looks like cardboard,but is veneer from a project at work.it will be fabricated out of some structural angle iron i have layin around.

 

cheers, brian

Edited by monstaru
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okidoki.......so this will be the last post to this thread.i am going to start an actual fab/build thread now.because i went out today and got this...........its on ***************es.......:lol:

IMG_2371.jpg

 

she is so pretty......best i could get for 120v.....................(that i could afford,and it wasn't cheap)

 

with her new cart...

IMG_2372.jpg

 

 

i will pop her cherry tomorrow.it will be nice to have her around .i switched out the downstairs breaker from a 15a to a 20a so hopefully it helps.

 

my ol'lady is off 'til next week , so i can at least see what it can do.the goal is to get the crossmember made.tomorrow i think i will make a gift for the woman.don't know what yet.

more pics

 

cheers, brian

Edited by monstaru
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the funny thing is,the only attribute that not having good electrical service gives me is not being able to weld continuous for hours........:lol:so, i do not worry about burning it up.

 

and lincoln has a 3 yr manufacturers warranty,so regardless ifyou won it or not,you should call them and get another one.cheers, brian

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Eh, my dad took it to one of his friends and got it fixed for 75 bucks, the entire ground circuit from the lug where the ground cable attaches all the way to the power cord was completely fried and had to be replaced. the best part was the entire machine had to be disassembled to do it. My dad paid for it AND bought a Millermatic 35 while mine was down, so its all good now. Strangely, i have yet to even plug mine in since we got the Miller 35 :lol:

-Bill

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