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Oh our head gasket blew, what to do what to do...


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Our 98 Forester's head gasket is definitely blown:dead:, so just venting here a bit and trying to figure out if I should let my dear husband and his mechanic buddy replace it themselves, or replace the engine (which we can't afford), or trade it in as is, or...or...or...:( It's got just over 200k on it, good shape otherwise...

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they offered? let them fix it! use Subaru only head gaskets, nothing else.

 

might be worth looking for an EJ22 engine. they are rather easy to find around here for cheap. they're more reliable and you'll likely use a 95 model which is also non interference. if you choose the right one (tons of information here), it's a straight plug and play swap.

 

since EJ25's (your engine) have more issues, there's also a higher demand. you could probably get a couple hundred for the motor if it's known to be good (just needs gaskets). with the gaskets replaced they sell for $750+ though not typically with 200k on them.

 

if you replace the head gaskets and keep the EJ25 it is wise to consider replacing all the timing pulleys and tensioner as well with that mileage on it. that's an interference motor, if any of those pulleys seize or the tensioner fails that will cause internal engine damage. those parts are expensive and quickly add up, which means most people don't do it - which is another good reason to get an EJ22 swap going.

 

with a 1995 EJ22 you don't have that problem...just a broken belt, and replace it as it's not an interference engine.

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I'm not sure I understand something, if you were to trade it in as is wouldn't you be spending more than $1000 on the new car?

 

Ok, here is the company I used for my JDM engine:

 

2.5L http://www.tigerjapanese.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=29&category_id=11&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=26

 

I agree with everyone that you should look for a replacement engine, the cost of the parts to do it right will add up. The 2.2L swap is done quite often, a little less power but an increase in reliability although you drove 200,000 on the original 2.5L.

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I did the 2.2L swap and personally think it was well worth it. I got my EJ22 engine for $500 6 months ago. I don't know of anyone who has not been happy throwing the 2.2L engine in. Everyone I talked to said they were glad they did it. It is a little less power, but that doesn't bother me any.

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I did the 2.2 and I would recommend it. Look for a wrecked legacy 95 to 99. Take the motor out and scrap the rest. You will get 100 to 175 in scrap if you let them pick it up. Insert the 2.2 and you could probably get 100 bucks for the 2.5.

 

I am doing a 2.5 HG and I am finding out that it is very expensive to do it right. I have spent at least 400 in materials not to mention the cost of the engine.

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Are you sure its blown?

 

Folks often think they blew the head gasket or other gaskets to find out once all that is done it happenes again soon after as you have a clogged PCV the whole time.

 

We had that, dealer said $1000 to cheange the oil leaking head gaskets.

Changed the PCV and it went away. WHen it can't vent pressure build and build inside the motor and finds a way out.

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Let them try the head gasket; especially if a mechanically inclined friend is willing to help :) Take a nice long weekend; maybe take off a Monday or a Friday. Get started right away and have plenty of time for any problems that may come up.

 

Now is the time to do the... water pump, oil pump, timing belt, timing belt tensioner pulleys, accessory belts (the one for AC and PS).

 

I'd rather spend $500+ and your own labor fixing this engine right than buying some junkyard core that duder assures you is fine only to have the head gasket blow on that one 3 months from now.

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Over 200K, it makes more sense to replace the engine. You are taking a chance doing the HG with that many miles. You will increase the compression slightly by having the heads machined, and adding stress on the original piston rings. Blowby is real possability.

 

nipper

 

Seldom do I question your advise. But installing an unknown 2.2L engine is a bit of a crap shoot as well. The only real capital outlay to fix the 2.5L DOHC engine is replacement headgaskets. The cheapest way out of this is to install the new head gaskets and see what happens. The engine will probably run, and if not, little money is lost. This a 98 DOHC 200K mile Forester in Maine. Last I heard, they use salt on the roads during the long winters in Maine. Not mention that this car could be taken out by a moose at any time. I woud put as little money as possible in this car to operate this car as long as possible. Also, at 200K miles the tranny and other drive train components are on borrowed time. Don't turn this car into a money pit. If this car was RC, I'd be calling for a priest.

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that's a good point, the bottom line is that there is no "one size fits all" approach to this. options are good!

 

Seldom do I question your advise. But installing an unknown 2.2L engine is a bit of a crap shoot as well.
nipper didn't mention a 2.2L or a used engine. although that is what i'd do and probably what i recommended.

 

good condition EJ engines are easy to find and cheap (except 2.5's). get one with warranty, from someone that pulled it out of a running vehicle (i have a few in my garage), yards often test them before pulling or can still test if they're in the car. it's far from a crap shoot.

 

EJ25's are a high demand item and easily fetch a couple hundred even with blown head gaskets, money that could be put towards another motor.

 

fixing the EJ25 is going to cost. to be done right the heads should be machined at a minimum and personally i'd have them pressure tested and a valve job done....so you're looking at $200 and that's if you don't touch any seals or timing belt stuff.

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Your dead on. Cost of the 2.5 with a blown HG is 50 to 200. Add in the valve and head job and your looking at another 200. Add is 300 for seals, belts and all timing components with water pump. Add another 150 in if you have a manual because it only makes sense to do the clutch while you are there. You at or around 800 to do the rebuild correctly by yourself.

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