ihscout54 Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 (edited) Figured Id share my EA81 teardown woes. The first engine had 1 rusty pitted cyl. and it was a hydro lifter block. The second must have had a pretty decent ping/detonation problem. Caused some nice scoring! Can the hydro lifter block be used with solid lifters? Im assuming the heads would work too if you change the rockers. Enjoy the pics -Sam Edited November 17, 2008 by ihscout54 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 You need to swap cam, lifters, pushrods, rocker assemblies between the two, but yeah,, it can be done. That's a narly looking engine, ucky even.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted November 16, 2008 Author Share Posted November 16, 2008 Im not too sure how much you can bore if really any on these. So the solid lifters work in the turbo/hydro block? Cause I have all the parts. The blocks are a bit different. Is it worth the trouble? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 Im not too sure how much you can bore if really any on these.So the solid lifters work in the turbo/hydro block? Cause I have all the parts. The blocks are a bit different. Is it worth the trouble? Thanks yes, I'm running solid lifters in my hydro block. I think they need to be installed before the block halves go together though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4_Welder Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 Looks like that one ate something, like a BB or small nut. And yes, the lifters have to be installed with the case split. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted November 17, 2008 Author Share Posted November 17, 2008 What ever it was there was more than one because both cyls. on that side have this problem. Thats why I thought a detonation problem started it all once the piston started to crumble.... Who knows maybe the carb. fell apart. How much can you bore these? -Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4_Welder Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 I don't know, I've never had to. When I was looking into it years back, I think the max was about .020". Not much, basically just clean up a good bore and you're at the max. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 The one that is scored - what's it look like? These aren't swiss watches and I bet you could hone it. Just give it a good rough hone and see if you can get rid of the score mark. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted November 17, 2008 Author Share Posted November 17, 2008 I may take them to a buddy at a machine shop when I go to Prescott for thanksgiving. He can get parts too, but I was hoping to, do this one on my own. Not only for cost savings but for the pride of building my own motor. Hell I almost bought a CCR motor till the prices went up $600 because im sure its well worth it. I think .020 is plenty. The hydro block has 3 cyls. that still show clean crosshatching but the No.1 is pretty rusted. Where can I find the oversized components? Is there any internal things/parts I can do/use to improve durability, lifespan, performance etc. I saw the delta cams add here and many tips form air craft builders but I have found few suppliers for parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 You don't want to oversize the cylinders unless you have someone with a bore plate. These aren't chev 350's as much as they aren't swiss watches and one of the thing you MUST do on an all-aluminium split-block design is use a bore plate when boreing them out. The cylinder liners are cast into the aluminium and are prone to spinning if they aren't bored true - which they won't be unless you bore them with the block in it's stressed posistion (as if it were bolted to the head). The bore plate is about a 4" thick steel plate that has all the holes for the head studs as well as through-holes for boring the cylinders. Not easy to produce and not economical for a one-off. Better to ship it to someone like RAM and have them do it. They also sell oversized components IIRC. Although if it were me I would just give it a rough and finish hone with my 1/2" drill and be done with it. As long as you don't do major boring you shouldn't have a problem. Don't use chrome rings - they will take 15,000 miles to seat and make any oil burning worse if you don't have a perfect finish. If you use plain sintered iron rings you should be fine. It will seal up and run in ok. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted November 17, 2008 Author Share Posted November 17, 2008 I havent tried to clean that rusty cyl up yet it may not really be pitted at all, but it sure looks bad. The hone I have has a busted stone maybe Ill remidy that today. Anyone ever used the bottle brush hone with beads on it (flexi-hone?)? -Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 dingle ball brushes work well, IF you control STROKE and RPM did you try a 2 or 4 oz ball pein hammer? also a BLUE ROLOC works wonders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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