coldfusion21 Posted November 18, 2008 Share Posted November 18, 2008 I just bought a DL wagon, i think. 4wd, 5 speed. It seems to have a couple of issues. It makes a pretty bad popping or clicking when accelerating from pretty much any gear. Sounds like drive line, but being new to fwd/awd/4wd cars i really don't know what a bad cv joint sounds like. Issue # 2 it seems that i may have some detonation problems, or at least thats what it sounds like. hard to hear over the drive line noise, but also happens when accelerating, usually at low rpms. i also get a check engine light, that occasionally flashes. Thoughts? I am completely new to these cars, so any and all useful info is helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted November 18, 2008 Share Posted November 18, 2008 Let me be the 1st to say, Welcome to the Obcession. The popping and clicking is more then likely a cv shaft. They go out quite frequently, Replace it with a MWE one. Dont get one from a parts store, they rarely work. Others will chime in on the detonation. Buy the way. This thread is useless without pictures. Us DLs Need to stick together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldfusion21 Posted November 18, 2008 Author Share Posted November 18, 2008 (edited) Haha, i guess i will be updating this with pictures tomorrow. So where do i get a MWE CV shaft? Do you replace the whole shaft? Do you need to do both at once? I found a couple of good write ups but they are so dang old all the links for the pictures are long gone. Is there a current guide with pictures? Sorry for all the questions, i need to search more, im sure you guys have answered these many times over. Edited November 18, 2008 by coldfusion21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobcob Posted November 18, 2008 Share Posted November 18, 2008 So where do i get a MWE CV shaft? http://www.ccrengines.com/mwe/ Do you replace the whole shaft? yes. Do you need to do both at once? Don't HAVE to but it is worth inspecting the other one to see how it looks. May be worth considering it if you can afford it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted November 18, 2008 Share Posted November 18, 2008 I would just do both. I did only the one making noise and the other one started up making noise soon after. Once one makes noise chances are they are both needing replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldfusion21 Posted November 19, 2008 Author Share Posted November 19, 2008 Ok, so both CV axles at once, that doesnt seem to terribly bad. Now, i have seen a flashing "check engine" light a couple times today, and then after the third short trip, it just stayed on. Can i pull codes like a newer car? Or it it just up to me to diagnose? Also, i seem to have a coolant leak near the water pump, and a oil leak near the y pipe and cat. In fact it seems to drip perfectly right on to the cat. Thoughts? What do you guys like for replacement brake parts? I think i will atleast do the fronts when i do the CV axles. I know with volvo's (majority of my car experience) we have some choices with regards to pad material and some choices with regards to rotors, slotted and vented and all that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudddn Posted November 19, 2008 Share Posted November 19, 2008 The check engine light is notorious in Subarus to just always be on. Happy Soobing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indrid cold Posted November 19, 2008 Share Posted November 19, 2008 (edited) Welcome too the Board. the term... baby steps come too mind. Not sure of your skill level but mine was about one on a level of 10... and once you spend some time loving and cussing at these cars... they become very friendly to work on. So it just takes time and a will to learn... I say replace only as parts go bad, not on looks unless $ is not an issue... the clicking could be your front bearings... along with the axel.. You will need some Subaru cotter pins for axel castle nut, they seem to be the only things that fit unless you have an extra nail to bend over... My 88 has connectors under the hood, green and white to make it do the code checks, disconect when done testing, (be honest with you I can't remember which too connect... mine has ran so well that I haven't needed to test?)... at some year they put the connectors under the dash by the puter... not sure on the 89 year. New plugs, wires, rotor and cap and time to 20 deg. BTDC (I believe) goes a long ways. a used Chiltons can be had cheaply along with the "how to sections" in this web-site and help from these cats which, if there not , usually great info... Plan on anything you do taking longer than you think and possible have another rig so youre not rushed or pushed... I am sure others will jump in. I loved my push button, on the fly 4x4, even without the Hi/Low on the tranny. Fun to drive... kind of doggy on the starts but fun on the back roads and town driving and in a bit of rough or slippery road just tap that button with the thumb and leave the others behind! Good luck... Edited November 19, 2008 by Indrid cold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldfusion21 Posted November 19, 2008 Author Share Posted November 19, 2008 Just went and took some quick pictures. Its dark so the pictures are iffy at best. The first one is its "good side" and the last two show the only serious body damage, looks like someone drove into a tree or something and dragged it down the side of the fender and on to the door. I have a pretty good grasp of mechanics, i have owned 80's volvo's of the turbo and NA variety for 6 years now, and been working on cars for about 8. Im ready to dive headfirst into this and try to make it a reliable fun car. I just want to make sure my "stage 0" is done. Basically i want to make the car as reliable as i can, and when issues come up be as prepared as possible to deal with them. Im not new to owning a 20 year old car, so i know they will always have quirks. My mechanic friend says a flashing check engine light means Class A misfire, one whole cylinder isnt firing. But i generally take everything she says with a grain of salt. This weekends list is an oil change, possible cleaning of engine to find leaks, air filter and spark plugs change, with a compression test to check the seemingly fragile head gasket. Thanks for all your help guys, i could be stuck in the dark still. Jared Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_B Posted November 19, 2008 Share Posted November 19, 2008 Not a half bad lookin wagon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted November 19, 2008 Share Posted November 19, 2008 My mechanic friend says a flashing check engine light means Class A misfire, one whole cylinder isnt firing. But i generally take everything she says with a grain of salt. This is hogwash. You're friend is not familiar with pre-OBDII subaru computers. There is no code for an individual misfire for this engine. Besides, even in an OBDII system you can't guess. You have to read the codes. Here is what to do. Find the 2 green single pole connectors under the hood, near the drviers side strut. Plug them toghether, this puts the car in diagnosis mode. Now remove the lower dash cover under the steering wheel. You will see a box bolted to the bottom of the column, it has a small hole with an LED light inside. Watch this light and count the long and short blinks. Example 3 long flashes followed by 2 short ones = code 32. If you spend some time searching here, you will find tons of info on how to read and interperate codes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted November 19, 2008 Share Posted November 19, 2008 Good luck on the front brakes. There wonderful to change (shadup Mick). Another thing, Ditch those cheesy factory wheels and hubcaps and get yourself come wagon wheels or pugs. Depending on where you are in the country they could be easly had and there usually dirt cheep. I got mine, wheels and new tires 100 bucks. I always start with the basics when i buy a car. NGK plugs and Wires will go along way. Cap and rotor are nice but i was told if it wasnt broke dont tear into it so i left that alone. Clean your maf with electronic spray while your changin the air filter. Top off fluids, and make sure your 4wd works and is engageing. I dont think its bearings though my driver side cv shaft is clicking but onlywhen turning. If its clicking all the time then its on its way out. The next thing your gonna half to decide my man is if your gonna lift it, lower it, or leave it alone. Opinions vary on these subjects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldfusion21 Posted November 20, 2008 Author Share Posted November 20, 2008 Hopefully your not being sarcastic about the brakes. I got real spoiled with the volvo's. Easiest front brakes to change ever. The 4wd works, and i have a work order from the PO that lists the plugs rotor and cap and spark plugs as being done recently. I am planning on doing the plugs again to replace with NGK's and check compression. Also i want to look at the plugs, see if i see any detention. Yea these things click/rumble/rattle/vibrate all the time. Unless i start real slow, or start from a roll. If i was working with a RWD car i would say it was the center support bearing for the drive shaft. Thanks again guys. I will try and pull the codes today and report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 Well other people might chime in buttttttttttt, my first suby brake job i had help from mick and you need a special tool. Its not like most vehicles where you can use a c clamp to push in the caliper you need to twist it in. Vice Grips or special tool it down right sucks. So sadly its not extremely easy. Also look into swaping your rear drum brakes to disc. Very easy swap. Yea my drivers side cvshaft is clickin really good now that its cold. There are tons of writeups on cvshaft replacement and bearing replacement also. Try to use oem bearings, they seem to last longer some say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zyewdall Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 I know they say you need a special tool, but I've always just used a pair of needle nose pliers to crank it down -- a little time consuming, but I didn't think it was that hard. BTW, a '82GL was the first vehicle I ever did a brake change on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldfusion21 Posted December 2, 2008 Author Share Posted December 2, 2008 Well i noticed something interesting today. First off, the rattle/clicking happened with the car not moving. It sounds like its coming from the tranny tunnel area. Also, i will try and get a pic of it, but what is the cable going from the brake junction block to the clutch? Its not connected on my car... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opus Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 Thats the do-hickey anti roll back thingy for people who shouldn't be driving a manual transmission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pixO Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 Thats the do-hickey anti roll back thingy for people who shouldn't be driving a manual transmission. Hillholders.. love them or hate them. haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 What is this special tool for the brakes? I never needed it, actually Ive never needed any tools at all other than the wrenches to remove the mounting bolts on the caliper when I do the brakes on the Beast, and ive had those calipers off at least 6 times, so im -Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldfusion21 Posted December 2, 2008 Author Share Posted December 2, 2008 I think he's talking about the tool for pushing the piston(s?) back so the fresh pads have room to clear the calipers. Hillholder? I've never heard of such a thing. its disabled anyways, but hows it suppose to work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 I think he's talking about the tool for pushing the piston(s?) back so the fresh pads have room to clear the calipers. Hillholder? I've never heard of such a thing. its disabled anyways, but hows it suppose to work? the pistons are rotated to seat them being that the parking brake is engages with the front wheels. similar to that af cable parking brakes to the rear like nissan. the hill holder is a subaru design that holds brake pressure toe the rear brakes while the clutch was engaged and you had let off the brake pedal. the brakes are dual-diagonal, so the driver side front and passenger side rar brakes are ganged together, and vice versa. you will want to start your brake bleed procedure from the rear wheel, then its opposite front wheel diagonally. although, this will not be necessary unless you open a brqke line, or just wnt to flush out the fluid. subarus are tricky with this, you can hold down the cluch pedal while pumping the brake, since the hill holder does play into effect with the breking dynamics of manual transmission subarus. cv axle are easy enoufh to change with the proper handful of tools. if ask about book time for labor rates on subaru axle replacement, it will usually include the bearings and removal of the whole knukle/axle from the car, and have the parts pressed out, and pressed in, with better than 300 bucks in cost. with technique, you can change an axle with no more effort than mowing your lawn on a Saturday afternoon. if you want to be aconomic, just change whatever axle at a time as needed. read up on USRM on timing belt and water pump articles. subars really are a good beginner car for a mechanic with straight-forward engineering you would thing should be universal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldfusion21 Posted December 3, 2008 Author Share Posted December 3, 2008 (edited) I'm sure you guys sure get sick of being asked questions about the CEL, seems like there is always a ton of questions relating to it, but know i have my own. So its an 89, so i should have green and black connectors near the brake booster in the engine bay? To check codes, the green connectors should be together? What do the black ones do? When i just went and looked, it seems that both and green and the black were just sitting connected and thats how i have been driving it. The fuel pump cycles with the key on, with both sets of connectors unplugged and plugged in. Edited December 3, 2008 by coldfusion21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indrid cold Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 (edited) The single green and the White connectors are for testing/timing/diagnostic .... Those should be disconnected under normal driving. ..... as for the black connectors... I can't remember... (sorry not much help but this post will get you back to the top of the list) ................... Help him out here guys.... *also, check your private message box. Edited December 3, 2008 by Indrid cold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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