saetern Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 (edited) 14 Fuel injector - abnormal output already replaced fuel filter, going out in like 10min to check resistance, discontinuity, and insulation. don't have a fuel pressure tester. car tends to die if it isn't warm. also when WOT no matter what the rpm, it'll move up slowly. i put some techron fuel injector cleaner maybe it'll help. 21 Coolant temperature or circuit Keeps coming back even after i filled the car with antifreeze, was gonna flush the system but it's been like 5F degrees so don't wanna piss off neighbors cause i'm running water out in the street also when i first turn on car and try to change gears(automatic) i have to hold the part on the shifter down along with the black part on on center console. i forget but it threw another code either 61 or 45. but hasn't come back since ECU reset. also when car is not warm, just started in the cold, when i push the gas pedal all the way to the floor it sounds like the car is backfiring noise is coming from underneath driver sear though and not tailpipe. TBI Edited December 2, 2008 by saetern Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 I would check for bad connections causing both of the error codes. The coolant temp sensor is different from the gauge sensor. The one for the ECU has two leads running to it. The temperature error code is for an electrical problem not the coolant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 As Cougar says The CTS or it's wiring is bad. I'd vote for a bad CTS. No fuel system spec'd so I'll guess SPFI On the gooseneck (upper rad hose to engine connection) there is a sensor with two wires leading to a plug. This is the CTS, it tells the ECU the engine temp and the ECU adjusts the mixture accordingly. The backfire you feel is a lean mixture from the ECU not knowing the engine temp. You can measure it's resistance vs temp if you are friendly with a multimeter. Hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saetern Posted December 3, 2008 Author Share Posted December 3, 2008 (edited) i just pulled the ECU off, how do i check the proper connections between on the harness. I have picture of the harness saying which lead is what but i had the ignition on with the black lead from DMM on ground and the put the red one in terminal 23 (water temp sensor), 43 (postive for injector) and didn't get a voltage reading. Am i doing it right? that's how the checked the CEL one. I haven't checked the wires at injector, hard to get hand in there to unplug waiting till weekend so i can bring it in garage. Checked the wire's at the water temp sensor at normal operatin temps 2.3 kilo ohms (grounded it at negative battery terminal), so yea i'm gonna guess it's bad sensor. didn't get any reading from water temp sensor when vehicle was off for an hour. maybe to cold. Also when i had car at operating temps i unplugged the sensor and the second fan didn't kick in. Edited December 3, 2008 by saetern Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 You should check the resistance between the two leads of the temperature sensor for the ECU. Remove the connector from the ECU when you do this. I'm not sure what the resistance should be at normal operating temperature but I think it may be around 50 ohms. The cold resistance may be around 2,500 ohms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 For values and location of the sensor, Please take a look at this post http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83667&highlight=resistance+chart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now