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dist swap points to electronic


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One of my 78 Brats is at the body shop.

 

Painter/bodydude says he can't get it started.

Had been running fine.

 

The choke on the carb is propped open

and can not close.

But

He thinks quote "it's loaded up"

 

I am going to look at it on Monday (12/08/2008)

Maybe the points closed up or are toast and the spark is weak.

 

I'm going to take an electronic

dist out of an 81 that I have.

 

 

Is there anything special I have to rewire (ballast resistor bypass maybe?)

to install the electronic dist.

 

I do not have an engine wiring diagram for this unit.

 

I will have a timing gun to set the intial advance.

 

Thanks for any insight, this is my first foray into Gen I EA71s.

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Skip, I have done this swap and I posted it in the USRM awhile ago and since its been awhile, I can't quite remember what exactly I did with the ballast resistor. I believe I removed it as well and swapped in a bracket from an EA81 car for the coil, used the stock coil and wired the disty in like a normal EA81. I think thats how I did it but I'm not 100% positive.

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Hi Tommy,

Yea, that's it.

Decided to clean/adj the points and fix the choke heater.

(Choke was still propped open with the stick from your yard)

Fired right up after hot wiring the fuel pump to fill the bowl.

 

I'll be changing the dist and putting a Weber on it come ???

 

Nothing to cry about, she is still a long way from done.

She will be painted as factory --- Pearl Silver Metalic

 

bodywork.jpg

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Im glad your going with the pearl silver. Thats what I was going to paint her after I got off my paint her black kick. Im sure you notice the front valance is from a DL brat, dosent look bad though, no biggie. If I ever get out that way maybe Ill visit and you can let me take her for a spin!? :grin: Good luck with everything. Im still looking for a brat myself its been too long but theres no Gen 1s around FL. Might have to ship now that gas got cheaper but $ is kinda tight so the future dosent look good.:confused:

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  • 5 weeks later...

If you don't connect them together,

she will fire up and

then die as soon as the key returns to the run position.

 

The diagram I saw has a "start bypass" of the ballast resistor

to give full voltage when cranking.

This to offset the battery voltage drop

when the starter is engaged.

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