ettev Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 (edited) Mods, I'm asking for a favor in that you please don't move this to the stereo forum, it doesn't look like anybody ever visits or posts there. Situation: I have the following Pioneer receiver/CD unit I'm going to be installing in my Brat: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Source/CD-Players/DEH-1400?tab=B. It's a 45W x 4 channel unit and I'd like to run a bit more power output. I'm a complete dullard when it comes to what car amps actually do and even more so as to which would be right for me. I'd like to keep it an all Pioneer system so here's the link to the amps: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Amplifiers I don't need anything elaborate, just something to push 4 speakers with a bit more umpf so it can hear the radio over the cherry bomb muffler. I have upgraded the door speakers and I'm going to be running "behind-the-seat" truck box speakers. I've removed the in-dash stock speakers and am not replacing them. I will run the door speakers as my front channel and the behind-the-seat boxes as my rear channel. Question: Which Pioneer amp will fit the bill? Can I use one of the lower priced GM Amps that they make, and if so which one? Here are some pics of the audio mods so far: http://www.flickr.com/photos/26905545@N07/sets/72157605926523746/detail/?page=7 Thanks. Edited December 6, 2008 by ettev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buzzcon Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 1st thing I need to know is what is your RMS on your speakers. RMS=continuous power, in other words, a 50 RMS can run 50 watts into that speaker at all times without causing damage to the speaker. So check the RMS on your speakers and let me know. Or check the RMS on front and rear and add all of them together to determine the size 4 channel amp that you're going to get. You want more wattage than your speakers because you need reserve power. The wire would be better at 14 gage than 16, for you speaker wire, since you're running an external amp. You also need to seal the shims, that you made, with RTV, to stop any air leaks, to make your door the best speaker box that you can. When you run the power wire from your battery into your car for the external amp, put the fuse as close to the battery as you can. That way if there's a short, the fuse will blow right at the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ettev Posted December 9, 2008 Author Share Posted December 9, 2008 Here are the door mounted (front channel) speakers: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KFC1687/Kenwood-KFC-1687.html?o=m&c=10&tp=95&s=0&a=0 They are Kenwood #KFC-1687 3 way 6 1/2". Power range 2 - 50 watts RMS. Peak power 200 watts. Impedance is 4 ohm. The rear channel boxes are Pioneer TS-TRX5 and are double 6" within a poly sound box. I did a web search but couldn't find any free spec data. Here's what's on the speaker box: Nominal Power 50 watts Max Music Power 150 watts Impedance is 4 ohm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buzzcon Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 The GM-4300 F looks good for you. You're dealing with 200 watts RMS, so that amp's plenty at 400 watts. "Nominal Power." is basically the same as RMS. So you get that amp and you're good to go. :banana:Keep us up on the project and maybe post it in the stereo section. You may be right that we don't visit there often, I don't know, but when someone's working on a stereo project they probably check it out. Pics of your doors and shims, with your explanation might be helpful for someone. ~Myles~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 Dont forget to pick one that is short enough to fit in the dash. I went with a kenwood but I had to get the short bodied one because the heater is so close. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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