coldfusion21 Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 So my DL wagon detonates like crazy at low rpm/mid to heavy throttle and mid/high RPM at light throttle. So there is a very small range that it likes. Normally i would attribute this to something else, as detonation seems like a pretty odd thing in an NA car, but it likes high octane gas alot more (premium is a must for any power) and a few days ago it was really cold at night (20-30F) and it ran like a champ. So, what could be causing this o great Subaru gods? TIA Jared Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 "a few days ago it was really cold at night (20-30F) and it ran like a champ." If I feed my Subaru Sunoco 94 and cold air, it runs like a champ too. Mabie we should start a club? I just woke up. Pull the timing back? Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 When was your last tune up? Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, pcv, check timing, run fuel system cleaner in gas, stop using generic "cheap" gas, stand on the throttle more often to burn out carbon and cob webs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldfusion21 Posted December 10, 2008 Author Share Posted December 10, 2008 plugs wires cap and rotor were all done within the last 10k miles, by a shop for the PO. I guess i need to start by doing all of that again, to be sure. I ran two cans of seafoam through the gas, that actually seemed to help. I don't use cheap gas, or rather the cheap gas i use runs just fine with all my other cars... Timing i haven't checked. I know that sounds stupid given my current issues but i just moved and my timing light is MIA. That will be my next check for sure. Any other thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 The gas you use could still be it. I currently have three vehicles in my fleet, 92 Loyale, 97 Chevy Lumina, and my trusty 82 Ford truck. The Subaru is the only one that will detonate with cheap gas. The Chevy runs the same no matter what gas you put in it, I suspect it's because of the better fuel management. The Ford, is just happy to be running! My point it vehicles are different. I was gassing up at the Liberty station where I work, that station gets the cheapest gas that's available that day whether it conventional, rfg, or E10 conventional, but always cheap brands with poor addatives. I was running aroun in circles trying to get rid of the detonation, it wasn't untill I started filling up at Texaco(Chevron) that it went away. The car runs a ton better now, less downshifting uphills, smoother idle, etc. Try a few tanks of Chevron, Exxon, or other big brands and see what happens. At least you'll now without spending a bunch of money. The better gas will cost less that a dollar more per tank, not that bad really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 Oh, and what's the engine temp like? Is it running hot, is the rad partially clogged? You'll get detonation with a hot engine too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubastreet Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 +1 Timing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldfusion21 Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share Posted December 12, 2008 Temp is always good, gauge stays halfway after a normal warm-up period. No problems with stop and go traffic, or a hard run down the freeway. I will give it a go, but i tend to mix my gas anyways (buying from different stations) i will try and stick with a chevron close by for a couple tanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 (edited) Halfway on the gauge is too hot. Unless your sender is bad. New rad, new stat, 50/50 coolant/distilled water mix, it should barely be 1/4 up the gauge. It may be a good idea to install an aftermarket coolant temp guage that shows the actual temp in degrees. You could probably adjust your timing to get it to run better while hot, but it will still be hot. Edited December 12, 2008 by Frank B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somick Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 If this is an automatic transmission check out your modulator: pul out a vacuum hose and see if there is ATF in there. Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldfusion21 Posted December 13, 2008 Author Share Posted December 13, 2008 Hmm, i have never came across a car that halfway was to hot. How sure are you about that? OK, so new gauge to verify water temp. Where is the most accurate place to have the sender? I am used to a single head, and would assume that would be the spot, but not so sure here. Its a 5 speed, so none of that automatic BS to worry about. So, timing+coolant flush+T-stat. New radiator? I would prefer to avoid that, due to cost, how likely is it that its causing an issue for me? Whats the going rate on a good radiator? Is there a "good" one to get or are they all the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted December 13, 2008 Share Posted December 13, 2008 Hey coldfusion21, Something to consider. Buy, borrow, or mabie you have a laser temperature gun. I got mine at a regular auto parts house and it's extremely usefull. I've never had an EA-82 car that ran half way on the temperature gage... Except for the ones that something was wrong with them. Bad radiator, blown headgasket, stuck cheap aftermarket thermostat. But I don't live in a hot climate either, and I've never had one with a gage that far off. YMMV. hth, Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silent Bob Posted December 13, 2008 Share Posted December 13, 2008 Chased the same problem for a long time on my 91. Check/replace every vacuum line you can find, same with pcv hoses. Replace the oil filler cap and the o-ring on the dipstick- I think that helped mine more than anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted December 13, 2008 Share Posted December 13, 2008 I bought mine from JC Whitney, one row aluminum with plastic tanks for $100 shipped. They always have some sale for free shipping or 20% off so it's a good place to order it. I found that ALL of the online radiator stores, and the parts stores, autozone, advance, napa, etc, all sell the same brand radiators so price is the only thing to really look at, and you need to shop around, prices go from $100 to $260!! You can't get a two row anymore, just an aluminum core with plastic tanks, or an all metal brass and copper for $50 or so more. Original is aluminum and plastic. You can remove the temp sender for the dash temp gauge, the one wire one right near the thermostat housing, and put the sender for the aftermarket gauge there with a metric adapter. The gauge will come with sae threaded sender. A clogged or rotting radiator is the #1 or #2 problem with our older Subarus. Usually leading to overheating and head gasket failure. If yours doesn't look new, replace it. High temp is the biggest enemy to our engines. Out of the 7 subarus I've had, 4 were Ea82 cars, every one needed a rad and performed 200% better with a new one. It's very common, and I'm very sure. You may be able to take it to a radiator repair shop and have it cleaned for a lot less, bu tif the rad is in bad shape, they will not do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now