subiemech85 Posted December 20, 2008 Share Posted December 20, 2008 1. how do you remove the throttle chamber from the float chamber? 2. how do you remove the power valve? 3. how do you remove the plug to remove the idle mixture adjusting screw in the alunminum chunk infront of the carb? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted December 24, 2008 Share Posted December 24, 2008 Just Take it Out, carefully Remove all the Screws and Stuff... if you Want to Rebuild a Craptachi Carb, you must be Careful with the Small Aluminium Threads, do not Overtight `em. Are you Really Sure do you want to do That? ... I Suggest Swap there a Weber Carb as long as you Can... Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted December 24, 2008 Share Posted December 24, 2008 1. how do you remove the throttle chamber from the float chamber?2. how do you remove the power valve? 3. how do you remove the plug to remove the idle mixture adjusting screw in the alunminum chunk infront of the carb? Hi, I've had a few of these apart. What I did was ground a few screwdrivers down to fit. All the jets, air bleeds, power valve, so on and so forth. That plug for the idle mix screw, I just drilled it out. I think a quarter inch bit was the last bit used on it. Throttle chamber from the float chamber, large screws on the t chamber side. hth, Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petersubaru Posted December 24, 2008 Share Posted December 24, 2008 1. how do you remove the throttle chamber from the float chamber?2. how do you remove the power valve? 3. how do you remove the plug to remove the idle mixture adjusting screw in the alunminum chunk infront of the carb? #3 involves some specalized tools for drilling..taping..a new seat for the air mixture screw and spring that will have to be gotten from somewhere..even professional carb rebuilders have a near impossible time to get these carbs to work ..and then of course the float has to be checked and adjusted..no room for error here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted December 24, 2008 Share Posted December 24, 2008 #3 involves some specalized tools for drilling..taping..a new seat for the air mixture screw and spring that will have to be gotten from somewhere..even professional carb rebuilders have a near impossible time to get these carbs to work ..and then of course the float has to be checked and adjusted..no room for error here Peter, I may be missing something here. That aluminum chunk? After I drill the thing out I disgard the whole mess. I use the screw and spring, put some blue locktite on the threads if it's loose. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petersubaru Posted December 25, 2008 Share Posted December 25, 2008 (edited) Peter, I may be missing something here. That aluminum chunk? After I drill the thing out I disgard the whole mess. I use the screw and spring, put some blue locktite on the threads if it's loose. Doug NO locktite of any kind..even if that screw is loose..it is suppose to be that way...the pro carb builders use a "carb dyno" to set the carb up..but this "setting up" is for a new motor...so when you get, for example, the carb back from the re-builders,.. further fine tuning adjustments can be done if needed...perferably with an air/fuel analyzer..I don't know your car or cylinder compression..but generally speaking, the older the car is, ...some adjust will have to be made even out of the box..the rebuilt carb I bought from "tomco" specificly states this Edited December 25, 2008 by Petersubaru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted December 25, 2008 Share Posted December 25, 2008 (edited) NO locktite of any kind..even if that screw is loose..it is suppose to be that way...the pro carb builders use a "carb dyno" to set the carb up..but this "setting up" is for a new motor...so when you get, for example, the carb back from the re-builders,.. further fine tuning adjustments can be done if needed...perferably with an air/fuel analyzer..I don't know your car or cylinder compression..but generally speaking, the older the car is, ...some adjust will have to be made even out of the box..the rebuilt carb I bought from "tomco" specificly states this Well Peter, I'm the builder. The modifier. I only use what works, what is the point otherwise? Sincerely, Doug Edit: Crystal ball on the table. I don't know the future, Peter. P.S. I'm cheap. Really. Edited December 25, 2008 by Quidam Add text. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petersubaru Posted December 25, 2008 Share Posted December 25, 2008 Well Peter, I'm the builder. The modifier. I only use what works, what is the point otherwise? Sincerely, Doug Edit: Crystal ball on the table. I don't know the future, Peter. P.S. I'm cheap. Really. ..I only hope the BEST in your endeavor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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