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loyale lacks power


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have a 92 loyale automatic can't seem to figure out what is wrong wit it. replaced parts include (new) spark plug, spark plug wires, alternator, battery, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter, oil, radiator flushed. replaced with used parts, ECU (last one had bad CEL), coolant temp sensor, and fuel injector since old one's were throwing a CEL after replacement CEL went away. the car just seems to lack alot of power, i'll push it all the way to the floor no matter what it'll creep up slowly. i mean real slow it takes me awhile to get up to 40. any help is appreiciated. can an old distributor cap / rotor be causing this. also awhile bad my fuel pump decided not to work but after hitting it with mallet it doesn't give me any problems anymore. i really need to get a fuel pressure tester.

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Yes, Check all of That, and Also I Suggest to Check the Exhaust pipes... Sometimes cathalythic Converters got Clogged and cause the Lack of Power Behaviour plus Overheating.

is your Subie Carbureted? ... I Know it is 1992 so its EA82 engine should be Fuel injected, but since you live at Anchorage, maybe your Model is Carbureted... (We got here even early Legacies with Carbureted EJ engines)

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First problem: it's an EA82

Second problem: it's a 3AT

 

But, more seriously, it sounds like you've replaced most things. But, a few more to check. Clean the MAF sensor, replace the cap and rotor, and check the timing (if it's one cog off on the timing belt, it loses alot). And like someone suggested, check the catalytic converter for clogging.

 

Also, check the transmission -- enough good fluid in it? Maybe the engine has plenty of power, but it isn't getting to the wheels -- that happened to my friends old chevy cavalier when she let it run out of transmission fluid :rolleyes:

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i'll go pick up cap and rotor tommorow and see how that goes. the whole timing belt thing i've never messed with before and have no idea if it's off or not.

 

i'll check the wires again with the diagram but replaced them one at a time so that wouldn't happen.

 

EA82 is SPFI, i also thought it was clogged cat but i passed smog with flying colors about a month and a half ago. would it have passed smog with a clogged cat?

 

MAF has been cleaned, along with throttle body. i seafoamed the car when i first got it and changed oil afterwards. trannys got enough fluid in it. i am going to be draining the fluid and replacing it soon as i get off my lazy rump roast :grin:

 

how do i know if the timing belt is off, as stated before have no idea how to mess with that. thanks for help folks.

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My Loyale has always been like that. Since I bought it new.

 

To check your timing, remove your spare tire. There should be a rubber plug on the fly wheel. You need a timing light. Your timing suppose to be 20 degrees BTDC.

 

Check your transmission modulator. Pull a vacuum hose from it and see if there is a transmission fluid in there. If there is, you diaphragm is bad and the modulator needs replacement.

 

I hope this helps,

 

Sam

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it runs better than it did when i first got it. freaking thing would have to sit around for like 20 minutes to warm up so i can drive it or else it'll die :grin: now it runs and gets me to work as my daily beater but trying to get it a little more reliable. it's leaking oil i think the head gasket is gone gotta pull it in garage since it's like 10 degrees outside.

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How does it accelerate if you manually shift it? I've found as long as I keep mine above 2300 rpm it runs great. The darn things upshift too quickly in auto mode unless you floor it from a stop.

 

Otherwise as mentioned, make sure the timing belts are timed correctly, the exhaust isn't clogged, and consider bumping up the timing to about 23 degrees. A couple treatments of Techron in the gas tank seemed to help mine too.

 

Note: Timing is set with green electrical connectors by the master cylinder connected. Make sure you disconnect them when through.

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How does it accelerate if you manually shift it? I've found as long as I keep mine above 2300 rpm it runs great. The darn things upshift too quickly in auto mode unless you floor it from a stop.

 

Good point. Our brand new Chevy Silverado (company truck) does the same thing -- if you don't floor it, it upshifts at like 1600rpm, and feels quite slow and boggy. POS. But, back to topic, I've talked to a number of people who thought that 5MT EA82's were slow, because they were shifting up at 2500rpm -- instead of 3500 or 4000. Those engines don't have alot of power below 3k. And, revving them doesn't affect the gas mileage nearly as much as it does the big V8's -- the best mileage I've gotten mine is on the freeway at 3700rpm for 400 miles.

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  • 2 months later...

 

Note: Timing is set with green electrical connectors by the master cylinder connected. Make sure you disconnect them when through.

 

What difference is this supposed to make? I did mine both ways and it made no difference, on a 93 Loyale.

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