CV Joint Broke (All fixed! Next Project)

[zyewdall]

Yeah.

 

This really blows. All of their computers are wrong.

 

 

Yup. I only buy axles from Subaru any more, since Checker and Rock Auto ALWAYS send me the wrong ones (ironically, the wrong one they sent you, is the right one for my car (5 speed manual, non turbo).

 

Z

[idosubaru]

i wouldn't waste all of this time and money on an aftermarket axle. do a search here and you'll find that aftermarket axles are junk. you'll be doing this all over again in a year probably. it's even common for a brand new aftermarket axle to have problems.

 

find a used subaru axle or go with CCR out of colorado and order it.

[Keiji22]

i wouldn't waste all of this time and money on an aftermarket axle. do a search here and you'll find that aftermarket axles are junk. you'll be doing this all over again in a year probably. it's even common for a brand new aftermarket axle to have problems.

 

find a used subaru axle or go with CCR out of colorado and order it.

 

But I'm actually looking forward to an E/T swap into my car. I intend on keeping it since it is a rare model. And that way, I'll have access to the more reliable EJ series engine and transmissions.

 

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@M45,

 

If you have removed your spare tire and the mounting bracket+heat shield for your turbo, assuming you have the Turbo EA82; There should be a plastic label on the top of your transmission right behind your intake pipe. It has a barcode on it.

 

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Now for the update;

 

I bought a new axle, the correct one and replaced it. I was right about the part number. Shucks, Autozone and the likes have wrong information from their manufacturers and will ALWAYS give you the backwards part, since they cannot correct the error.

 

But tonight; I was going over a VERY mild speedbump and... my passenger side CV joint starts clicking. Lol.

 

I just picked up another axle. So now I'll have two good, new axles with 1 year warranties.

 

I also got new brake pads because I discovered that my rear pads were about 10% and the front pads were about 30% during the procedure.

[Keiji22]

So what exactly is wrong with that old axle? Looks to me like the problem is your wheel bearings- The race area on the axle should not be that color.

 

That axle was the original axle that came on the car. I wouldn't be surprised if some discoloration has occurred after 20 years.

 

Also, the axle REALLY was broken. I'm not kidding on this one. As soon as I took it out of the transmission, two ball bearings fell outta the boot.

Edited January 7, 2009 by Keiji22

[Keiji22]

Just took out the old axle on the passengers side.

 

It was worse than the driver side axle. It was limper than a flacid 90 year old man with 100/50 blood pressure who hadn't renewed his Viagra Rx (Lol, RX=Prescription, just caught that) in two decades.

 

Also, I now am having fun with replacing these now that I know what I'm doing. Screw the "special tool" press. Block of wood+hammer+following directions makes things much easier.

 

Replaced the brakes as well.

 

Next up; 4 wheel alignment, TMIC install and hood scoop.

[Keiji22]

Alright! Now I have 2 BRAND NEW (Refurbished) Axles, 8 brand new brake pads all around, new transmission fluid and topped all the other fluids off. Now if I could only get my rear window sprayer to unplug.

 

Car drives great and it doesn't feel like it needs another alignment.

 

I did have to fix the idle speed... I checked the spec's and it was only supposed to be idling at around 800rpm in Park. It was warm and idling at 2100rpm. So I adjusted the throttle and now it's idling back at 1400rpm, a little better I guess.