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Headlight conversion complete!


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I think what Carfreak85 meant is that you've got two sets of plugs on each side from your original 4 beam setup, one set that works the low, one the high. So what you need to do is identify which wire going to the high-beam plug supplies the power with a multimeter or a test light or whatever, and pull the connector out of the plug housing. Usually this can be done by sticking something into the plug housing on the headlight side with something thin like the fingernail cleaner of a nail clipper or the awl on a swiss army knife to bend down the locking tab. Here's a pic, it's not the same style of spade connector, but you should get the idea (sorry about the weird font, I don't know what's going on there...)

 

tang.jpg

 

Then once you have that out, figure out which is the high-beam tang on your round light and insert this into that socket and then let there be light!

 

Good Luck, and yes I have to agree with others, that is one fine looking setup and one fine looking bumper!

 

Will-

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ok I will have to get a test light....I know I know I should really have one anyways. But I guess I will try this. I didn't think I would have to do anything like this because I thought that one light was used for only high beams and the other is used for High and Low. So I thought if I plugged in the one used for high and low then I wouldn't have to do anything. I also asked Brian (monstaru) and he said that when he did the conversion he didn't remember having to rewire anything. So I guess I will try this and if there are anymore ideas bring 'em on!!Thanks for the suggestions and also thanks for the compliments!!:grin:

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DOH!!!try an see if the electrical tape is still on the chrome rings holding it to the bucket..... i do remember having to negate a ground issue.that is all i can think of though.

 

cheers, brian

 

Chrome rings? And what ground to what location. Sorry....:-\:)

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If you just can't wait to get on it, or you're really really cheap (test lights only cost a few bucks), and you have a spare blinker, marker, or tail-light and some wire hanging around, just solder a wire onto each lead, leave the other end bare and voila, test light!

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If you just can't wait to get on it, or you're really really cheap (test lights only cost a few bucks), and you have a spare blinker, marker, or tail-light and some wire hanging around, just solder a wire onto each lead, leave the other end bare and voila, test light!

 

right, yeah I have had a friend that has done that, no I'll spend the couple dollars on a test light. Thanks again!

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wait,maybe that was something else.damn dude,i just don't get it.......

 

i thought i remembered having a grounding issue with those when i first got them mounted.and then i taped the inside of the metal rings holding the actual headlamp bezel so that it could not ground anymore.i searched for a thread , but did not turn anything up.just when i posted them after being done.........damn.

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wait,maybe that was something else.damn dude,i just don't get it.......

 

i thought i remembered having a grounding issue with those when i first got them mounted.and then i taped the inside of the metal rings holding the actual headlamp bezel so that it could not ground anymore.i searched for a thread , but did not turn anything up.just when i posted them after being done.........damn.

 

Well I'll look for anything obvious. I mean it's not like I don't have lights but it would be cool if everything worked....Don't get me wrong I still love them!:grin: But if you think of anything else let me know. Thanks again!

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Yeah, your lighting issue comes from the difference in how the bulbs are wired internally. The hi/low connector on the quad light system will need to be re-pinned to work on the dual light system you have now.

 

I've swapped lots of vehicles from duals to quads and vice-versa, but right now I can't recall how you need to re-pin the connector. A look under the hood of any vehicle with dual lights will tell you what wires need to be where in the connector.

 

Like I said, the difference is in the bulb itself. Same connector size, just pinned differently.

 

I really like the look of it, but prefer quad lights myself......

 

 

edit;

 

Actually, I can get you that info. I'll be heading out to the garage in a couple hours, and I can compair the '82 BRAT to the '86 BRAT and post back.

Edited by TomRhere
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Sweet! Yeah if you could find out what needs to be put where that would be awesome! Thanks

 

Yeah, your lighting issue comes from the difference in how the bulbs are wired internally. The hi/low connector on the quad light system will need to be re-pinned to work on the dual light system you have now.

 

I've swapped lots of vehicles from duals to quads and vice-versa, but right now I can't recall how you need to re-pin the connector. A look under the hood of any vehicle with dual lights will tell you what wires need to be where in the connector.

 

Like I said, the difference is in the bulb itself. Same connector size, just pinned differently.

 

I really like the look of it, but prefer quad lights myself......

 

 

edit;

 

Actually, I can get you that info. I'll be heading out to the garage in a couple hours, and I can compair the '82 BRAT to the '86 BRAT and post back.

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Hopefully, this will work for you. The '82 has square duals, not sure if they're the same as the round duals.

 

Looking at the wireside of the DS plug on the '82;

 

..........Red/Black........

Red/Blue........Red/White

 

PS has;

.........Red/Black........

Red..............Red/White

 

 

The '86

 

DS has;

..........Red/White......

Red/Black.......Red/Blue

 

Bright only has;

Red/Blue........Red/White

 

 

PS has;

..........Red/White.......

Red...............Red/Blue

 

Bright only connector has;

Red.....Red/White

 

 

The Red, and Red/Blue wires are the Battery + feed to the lights.

Red/Black wires are Low beam.

Red/White wires are High beam.

 

 

If you take the bulb out and attach a wire to it where either the Red or Red/Blue wire would be in the connector and hook it to battery -. You can then use another wire from battery + to see which of the other terminals on the bulb is low and high beam. Then re-pin the connectors to match what the bulb tells you it is. Should work that way anyways.

 

Hope that helps.........

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Hopefully, this will work for you. The '82 has square duals, not sure if they're the same as the round duals.

 

Looking at the wireside of the DS plug on the '82;

 

..........Red/Black........

Red/Blue........Red/White

 

PS has;

.........Red/Black........

Red..............Red/White

 

 

The '86

 

DS has;

..........Red/White......

Red/Black.......Red/Blue

 

Bright only has;

Red/Blue........Red/White

 

 

PS has;

..........Red/White.......

Red...............Red/Blue

 

Bright only connector has;

Red.....Red/White

 

 

The Red, and Red/Blue wires are the Battery + feed to the lights.

Red/Black wires are Low beam.

Red/White wires are High beam.

 

 

If you take the bulb out and attach a wire to it where either the Red or Red/Blue wire would be in the connector and hook it to battery -. You can then use another wire from battery + to see which of the other terminals on the bulb is low and high beam. Then re-pin the connectors to match what the bulb tells you it is. Should work that way anyways.

 

Hope that helps.........

 

ok thank you...I'll see what I can find out. It's below 0 outside right now so I'm gonna hold off but thank you for the info! I appreciate it!

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Ok so I looked at the wiring and It looks like I have the same color wires as the list on the last page. So what the hell is wrong with my lights!?!?! They were working fine with the quad setup and now it's all messed up! Any more ideas?

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Ok so I looked at the wiring and It looks like I have the same color wires as the list on the last page. So what the hell is wrong with my lights!?!?! They were working fine with the quad setup and now it's all messed up! Any more ideas?

 

bump

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O.K. ... Let me Suggest you How to Fix That.

 

First get a Voltmeter Tester and a Notebook.

 

Then Remove the Wires from one of the Headlamps, Draw in the Notebook each ones and put Detail info about `em (like Colour, Coloured Lines...) Then Again with the Other Headlamp`s Wires.

 

Then Test Each Wire to find which ones have Positive (+) and Which ones Ground (-) -Negative- Electricity... When the Lights Switch is ON and then when the Lights Switch is OFF. Put that info on the Drawing for Each Wire.

 

Repeat the Same on the Other Side Headlamp`s Wires and Compare if Each side Has the Same situation. it Must be the Same Config.

 

Ussually, Old Subies -Loyales as I have Worked more on `em- Must have a Permanent Positive (+) or "Hot" Wire to the Bulb, then Two Negatives (-). Those Switch ON or OFF with the Lights Switch, one Negative is for the Low Beam and the another is for High Beam. That`s for Two Head Lamps Config, on Four Headlamps, there must be some Extra Wires for the High Beam Extra Lamp, so it will Turn ON Only on High Beams.

 

Knowin` That, you Must Do the Above Said Test not only with the Switch ON and OFF, it must be Done with Low Beams Selected and Then High Beams Selected... Both with Lights Switch ON and OFF.

 

Put All the Results for each Side and Each Wire on the Notebook.

:D

 

When All Tests are Done, Look at the Results, now you can Stablish which Wire is for Which Bulb, Which is Positive, Where are the Negatives and Then Connect Them to the Bulb`s Plugs. That Should Work Fine...

 

 

 

...But There are some Situations to Consider:

  • is Each Side`s Wires giving the SAME Results?


For Each Side, it Must be the Same Wire Turning On or OFF and the Same Wire for Low Beams / the Same Wire for High Beams... if Not: That is the Problem. so you Must Find the Right Wire for the Right Function... if a Wire Doesn`t Have the Proper Signal, you can Follow it to Find Corrotion, Short Circuits, Cuts, etc... Fix that First!!!

 

 

 

When you Have Everything Fixed and Clear with the Wires, and if you Connect them Right to the Proper position on each Bulb`s Plug, Everything Must work Fine Now, but let me Tell you another Situation to Consider:

 

 

  • The Power Amount Given to the Wires by the Relays.

Even if you Measure 12 Volts -or around- on the Wires, it Doesn`t Mean that you have Enough Power to Turn On a Bulb, Let me Explain: the Amperes.

 

 

Amperes is the Force that Volts have to Satify the Watts needed by any Electrical apparatus. A Bulb should "Eat" Around 55 to 80 Watts or So, it means that the Wire must Have not only 12 Volts, it Must Have around the 60 -or so- Amps that the Battery / Alternator can Bring, if not, there will be some Malfunction... Like Dim Lights, Dim Dashboard Lights, etc...

 

 

 

The Power is Sent to the Wire by the Relays, I Have a Writeup plenty of Pics about How to Fix Any Relay Problems and Swap there Bosch Standard Relays instead the Original Old Roundies... My "Public Profile" Page at this Site, contains a List of my Writeups, seach there for the Relays` one.

Also, here you can Find Useful info too, like an Schematic Diagram:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=93347

 

 

 

if you Believe that you Connected Everything Right, and There is Still some Problem / Malfunction \ issue with your Subie`s Lights, then it must be a Relay Problem.

 

 

 

I Hope this can Help you to Fix your Subie...

 

 

 

Kind Regards ... Good Luck! :burnout:

 

 

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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Did the info I forwarded from Ender help??????

 

Unfortunately not, On the drivers side on the three prong plug I have red, red/white, and red/black. On the passenger side I have the same. I found a bad wire and got all excited but I fixed it and it didn't make a difference! I still haven't gotten a test light so I have to get one of those! But anymore ideas are welcome! Thanks

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Really like the setup on your brat. Wish I had a answer to your problem. I had the same problem and just ran new wires, relay and rocker switch to get my highs working. I know it's the lazy way but I wanted to make sure the 100wt bulbs got all of the power they needed without cooking the factory wiring.

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Really like the setup on your brat. Wish I had a answer to your problem. I had the same problem and just ran new wires, relay and rocker switch to get my highs working. I know it's the lazy way but I wanted to make sure the 100wt bulbs got all of the power they needed without cooking the factory wiring.

 

Right well I think that have high beams but no lows. They do dim but it looks too dim, and they actually dim when I hit the switch for the high beams. So I dunno! Thanks for the compliment though! I really like the way they look too!

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Unfortunately not, On the drivers side on the three prong plug I have red, red/white, and red/black. On the passenger side I have the same....

 

OK, lets see if I can even follow my own logic here. Your single round headlight has three prongs correct? One is for High, one for Low, and one for Ground. This would be the same as the outer square bulb originally correct? What if the configuration of the three bulbs is different on each bulb. Like (and this is hypothetical, I don't know what the setup actually is) what if on the square's the center prong is the ground and the outer two are the high and low, but on the round, the left prong is the ground and the center and right are high and low? So if you have the original plug with it's ground wire plugged into either the high or low and thus the headlight's ground is plugged into a power feed, you would get both high and low on at the same time (maybe why they seem so bright) in one position of the switch, and no light (or really dim) in the other position of the switch. A light bulb will work no matter which way the power flows through it.

 

I say you leave one side unplugged and just play with the other side. Take all the wires out of the plug housing and start switching them around.

 

hope I didn't confuse you even more...:rolleyes:

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OK, lets see if I can even follow my own logic here. Your single round headlight has three prongs correct? One is for High, one for Low, and one for Ground. This would be the same as the outer square bulb originally correct? What if the configuration of the three bulbs is different on each bulb. Like (and this is hypothetical, I don't know what the setup actually is) what if on the square's the center prong is the ground and the outer two are the high and low, but on the round, the left prong is the ground and the center and right are high and low? So if you have the original plug with it's ground wire plugged into either the high or low and thus the headlight's ground is plugged into a power feed, you would get both high and low on at the same time (maybe why they seem so bright) in one position of the switch, and no light (or really dim) in the other position of the switch. A light bulb will work no matter which way the power flows through it.

 

I say you leave one side unplugged and just play with the other side. Take all the wires out of the plug housing and start switching them around.

 

hope I didn't confuse you even more...:rolleyes:

 

That's an idea! And something I might try. Right now I'm waiting to hear from Brian (Monstaru) again. He said that he was gonna mess around with a set and see what he could find out.

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