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plugging the EGR valve?


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Just wondering, will it be ok to just put plugs in where the pipe goes from the head to the intake manifold and leaving the vac valve in there just doing nothing? Or should I take that vac valve out and put a plate over that too?

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yep, i've done it too. for the metal EGR pipes you can just take a small metal ball and weld it into the pipes. or remove the pipes and pick up some suitable adapters, seal the threads with sealant, and plug the hole. and make a plate to cover the intake manifold.

 

that's how it is on the EJ stuff, don't think the EA is that much different.

 

i'd plug the vacuum lines. you might be able to just unplug the solenoid and that might default it to "no flow"....i haven't looked though, i just remove them entirely.

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So the consensus is you can't leave that vac valve in there because it causes problems?

My thoughts were that it just opened a passage between the EGR pipe coming from the exhaust in the head to the intake, and if the EGR was blocked off both ends it would then do nothing...?

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My thoughts were that it just opened a passage between the EGR pipe coming from the exhaust in the head to the intake, and if the EGR was blocked off both ends it would then do nothing...?

 

You are correct - disconnecting the vacuum line is just as good as building a block-off plate. As long as the valve is not leaking it will be closed and effectively IS a block-off plate.

 

All this talk of making special parts makes my head hurt. Cut the business end of the valve off and weld up the hole - block-off plate.... check.

 

Cut the end off the pipe that threads into the head leving about 1/2" of the pipe left. Crimp the pipe flat and run a weld bead across it. EGR passage plug.... check.

 

EGR does not affect performance IN ANY WAY. Blocked, unblocked, working or not. Got that? It merely lowers combustion temps to prevent formation of certain exhaust oxides. Personally I clean the valve and leave them be - I'll often reroute the vacuum supply directly to the carb to avoid the solenoids that the stock system employs.

 

I have run them blocked and not - working and non. You will notice no change in performance. Trust me you need to look elsewhere - Weber or SPFI.

 

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder
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Hmm so it really doesn't need to be messed with as long as it looks good and isn't a vacumn leak? I could buff and paint all the solenoids shiny to go faster! :banana: Fit the egr to a turkey baster under your seat for when someone takes a look at your car?:lol: punka punka punka! :lol:

 

seriously now ... Does it work with the reed valve or is that a different set of "gasses"?

 

I put on a plate and have not blocked the reed or the pipe to the head. I would like to know whats going on, just for the knowledge. I wouldn't mind them there if it wouldn't affect the weber or operation.

Edited by Yo'J
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...disconnecting the vacuum line is just as good as building a block-off plate. ... EGR does not affect performance IN ANY WAY. Blocked, unblocked, working or not. Got that? ...

 

Yes, I Agree Absolutely! ...

My EA82 have Cut & Close the Pipes and Leaved there the EGR Valve just Unplugged for many many Years without any Problem...

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i did mine for safeties sake.just in case i guess.plus it looks alot cleaner under the hood.

 

the pipes getting crimped is a whole other issue.i usually found something to plug the holes with as opposed to crimping them as well.usually i take the fitting out and cut the pipe completely out of it,then fill it with jbweld.cleaner look as well.i do the same with my ac outlet/inlets at the fire wall.

 

cheers, brian

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seriously now ... Does it work with the reed valve or is that a different set of "gasses"?

 

I put on a plate and have not blocked the reed or the pipe to the head. I would like to know whats going on' date=' just for the knowledge. I wouldn't mind them there if it wouldn't affect the weber or operation.[/quote']

 

The reed valves and silencer box crap is all par tof the anti afterburn system. If you just disconnect those is a big exhaust leak.

 

I'd delete them and make blockoff plates, or plumb both sides toghether. lol

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I don't want to plug it to give better power or economy. I just have a theory that the valve isn't working right and its letting intake gases into the exhaust making some nice popping sounds. Where is the vacuum line on the EGR valve suppose to be on the carb? intake side, above the butterflys, or at the top above the venturies? Maybe mines opening at the wrong time because where its picking up vacuum from?

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Tested it, and its fine, not the problem. But I did have it plugged in wrong. It was piped to the top of the carb, not the intake manifold. So thats changed now, but no difference in how it runs.

 

I had a look at everything the EGR does and figured its better to just keep it then plug it. Does nothing bad.

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The reed valves and silencer box crap is all par tof the anti afterburn system. If you just disconnect those is a big exhaust leak.

 

I'd delete them and make blockoff plates, or plumb both sides toghether. lol

 

That is entirely incorrect. The AIS (Air Injection System) takes advantage of the exhaust pulses to pull in fresh air to combine with the catalyst in the converter. It's a passive form of smog pump and has nothing to do with the anti-afterburn system which is seperate and prevents the carb from dumping tons of fuel durring closed throttle coasting. In fact the AIS can actually CAUSE backfireing (afterburn) if enough fresh air is allowed into the ehxaust stream and the mixture is rich enough. The systems are, however, unassociated.

 

The AIS does not affect performance. In fact NONE of the so called "emissions equipment" components affect performance save for one - the Hitachi caburetor itself. It's a big peice of crap and if you are looking for performance you will end up figureing this out on your own. All the ancillery systems are "passive" and other than making the engine bay look cleaner, removing or altering them will gain nothing at all.

 

GD

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