Txakura Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 ok, cruise has never worked on my 1990 loyale rs, got it from my folks and they never used cruise so didn't know it was out believe it's factory cruise, small panel to the right of the steering wheel on the dash anyway, the fuse isn't blown, but beyond that, I don't even know if the panel is getting power or where most of the components are for the system (aside from the vacuum actuator and the bigger pieces under the hood) so, the $5 question is - where do I start? and does anyone have a schematic of the electrical for this? thanks gang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L1800Turbo Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 Hello, if you need a wiring diagram I can mail it to you, I would start with the vacuum compressor and give power on it manually to check if the vacuum switch, the engine and all valves are running. I already had a problem with the vacuum switch, I repaired it with some tape Kai Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 ok, cruise has never worked on my 1990 loyale rs, got it from my folks and they never used cruise so didn't know it was out believe it's factory cruise, small panel to the right of the steering wheel on the dash anyway, the fuse isn't blown, but beyond that, I don't even know if the panel is getting power or where most of the components are for the system (aside from the vacuum actuator and the bigger pieces under the hood) so, the $5 question is - where do I start? and does anyone have a schematic of the electrical for this? thanks gang Well I hate to be the bear of bad news but its an aftermarket setup that you have. If it was indeed factory, right below the rear defrost button on the left side of the instrument panel, there's be a "CRUISE" button to power up the controls that would be on the steering wheel. I'm not quite in a thinking mood right now so I can't really explain very well on how to diagnose the system but just thought I'd give you a heads up that from the sounds of it, its not a factory cruise system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 first place I would start is the switch gear assoiated with the brake/clutch pedal(s) either one if closed will cause the system to not "cruise". you do not mention a tranny so if it is an auto ignore the clutch pedal reference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted January 8, 2009 Author Share Posted January 8, 2009 Well I hate to be the bear of bad news but its an aftermarket setup that you have. If it was indeed factory, right below the rear defrost button on the left side of the instrument panel, there's be a "CRUISE" button to power up the controls that would be on the steering wheel. I'm not quite in a thinking mood right now so I can't really explain very well on how to diagnose the system but just thought I'd give you a heads up that from the sounds of it, its not a factory cruise system. aaahhh hence the blanked panel pop out over there... hmmm, if I could figure out who made the aftermarket system I might be able to get a diagram from them, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted January 8, 2009 Author Share Posted January 8, 2009 first place I would start is the switch gear assoiated with the brake/clutch pedal(s) either one if closed will cause the system to not "cruise". you do not mention a tranny so if it is an auto ignore the clutch pedal reference. sorry, MT, that is a worthy tip and an excellent example of something that can be checked easily that I would not have thought of dasm I love this bbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted January 8, 2009 Author Share Posted January 8, 2009 Hello, if you need a wiring diagram I can mail it to you, I would start with the vacuum compressor and give power on it manually to check if the vacuum switch, the engine and all valves are running. I already had a problem with the vacuum switch, I repaired it with some tape Kai not sure what the 'vacuum compressor' refers to, or what the switch would look like it seem like I have a vacuum reservoir, or tank under the hood, but I'm not sure what the switch would be or where it would be seems I've actually got an aftermarket set up, the stock diagram might still be useful to show me an example of a complete system and give me a ball park to work within - I'll send my addy thanks to all of you for taking the time to reply Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 the vacuum compressor (pump) is used on turbo cars as they have a positive manifold pressure when the turbo is boosting. Your's may just tap off the manifold vacuum. Another bit of kit you will need to investigate is the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) Some aftermarket units use the tachometer signal off of the coil negative side. Some have magnets on the DOJ (inner CV) and a reed switch fitted close by. Some tap an existing VSS. You might find (under the dash -pull the panel that is above your knees when driving) a black box with the manuf. and model number on it. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted January 9, 2009 Author Share Posted January 9, 2009 Another bit of kit you will need to investigate is the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) Some have magnets on the DOJ (inner CV) and a reed switch fitted close by. Good luck. How much you wanna' bet some clever mechanic left that on the floor the last time my dad changed the cv joints? I've had them changed once too, I'll look for anything 'extra' on the outside of the case near the axles I once coined the term 'forensic mechanics', this is a good example of it's use Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 If when having the outer CV serviced the entire axle (half shaft) was replaced the magnets are probably gone as they are glued (JB weld epoxy ect) and wire ties to the DOJ. Now on some CCs I've installed you have the choice of using the magnets OR tapping the tach (RPM) signal. The magnets give a better control of the speed especially when an auto tranny is fitted. Again, you might want to find the magic black box and "internet-vestigate" to see if this is a possibility. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted January 23, 2009 Author Share Posted January 23, 2009 while tearing the car apart to fix the power windows... I think I stumbled on the cruise control box, npn, nsn, nothin'... I'll keep digging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 Well I hate to be the bear of bad news but its an aftermarket setup that you have. If it was indeed factory, right below the rear defrost button on the left side of the instrument panel, there's be a "CRUISE" button to power up the controls that would be on the steering wheel. There were actually 3 different cruise control setups used by subaru. 1 was factory installed. It uses a electric Vac pump. The other 2 are dealer installed, utilizing engine vaccum. 1 of the dealer installed systems utilized the steering wheel mounted controls. The other dealer installed setup uses engine vacuum and a single control panel that mounts on the dash, right of column. Ever seen Cruise in a DL wagon? What he describes is this system. Dealer installed. The speed sensor signal should come from the dash speed sensor in the dash that the ECU uses.. Start by checking that the Vaccum canister, mounted to passenger side strut tower, is hooked up. It will be the round black sphere with a hose that comes from eng. vac, and *T*s through a check valve, and the other end goes to a Vac diaphram also mounted to the passenger side strut tower. Check that all hoses leading top and from this canister are good, and getting vacuum when eng. on. Next check the vacuum hose that runs from that vac diaphram, along the firewall, into the cab and down to the vac diaphrahm at the gas pedal. Make sure it well connected. If all that sorts out well, THEN start troublshooting wiring and sensor issues. But be assured, this is a Subaru installed system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted January 24, 2009 Author Share Posted January 24, 2009 (edited) Start by checking that the Vaccum canister, mounted to passenger side strut tower, is hooked up. It will be the round black sphere with a hose that comes from eng. vac, and *T*s through a check valve, and the other end goes to a Vac diaphram also mounted to the passenger side strut tower. Check that all hoses leading top and from this canister are good, and getting vacuum when eng. on. Next check the vacuum hose that runs from that vac diaphram, along the firewall, into the cab and down to the vac diaphrahm at the gas pedal. Make sure it well connected. Your timing is excellent. I was just under the hood following the vacuum tubing around to all the components and checking they were at least connected. At an idle, I have vacuum to the strut tower device, (vacuum actuator?) and if I unplug the line from it, and apply vacuum the engine revs up. So, everything under the dash looked good, and apparently works with suction on it. but... this device, it has four electrical leads running to it + vac in and vac out, isn't passing the vac along. I assume this is normal at an idle. So it seems to me, it is this device that is not working, or it is not being 'told' to work. Kind of back to square one, I guess I can use the 'cheapest part first' rule and see what happens? At least now I know it CAN work if vacuum goes to the throttle diaphragm. Edited January 24, 2009 by Txakura re-tested car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 but... this device, it has four electrical leads running to it + vac in and vac out, isn't passing the vac along. I assume this is normal at an idle. So it seems to me, it is this device that is not working, or it is not being 'told' to work. Kind of back to square one, I guess I can use the 'cheapest part first' rule and see what happens? At least now I know it CAN work if vacuum goes to the throttle diaphragm. So, those 4 wires should run back into the cab, to a control unit. You need to try and verify that those wires are intact, and the control unit has not had any wires come loose. Probably a good idea to test continuity through all the buttons on the control panel ( the buttons mounted on the dash) Other than that I don't know how to fully test the unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted January 24, 2009 Author Share Posted January 24, 2009 So, those 4 wires should run back into the cab, to a control unit. You need to try and verify that those wires are intact, and the control unit has not had any wires come loose. Probably a good idea to test continuity through all the buttons on the control panel ( the buttons mounted on the dash) Other than that I don't know how to fully test the unit. me either. I can't find any info on the system in any subbie reference either... I did get a schematic in my email from Kai, but it is for a turbo 1.8 and has a vacuum pump and slightly different 5 wire servo unit I'm kind of stuck unless someone here has an idea or even another servo unit for me try, I can pull that module out and check the circuit board for anything obvious, burned resistor, broken capacitor etc :-\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 me either. I can't find any info on the system in any subbie reference either... I did get a schematic in my email from Kai, but it is for a turbo 1.8 and has a vacuum pump and slightly different 5 wire servo unit I'm kind of stuck unless someone here has an idea or even another servo unit for me try, I can pull that module out and check the circuit board for anything obvious, burned resistor, broken capacitor etc :-\ Yeah, the pump operated, Factory installed stystem, is the only one you will ever find in the FSM. Well, like I said, the buttons can be tested to make sure they are making contact when pushed. Other than that, you could VERY, VERY securly support the front end on jackstands. Then try operating the cruise control (i"d limit speed to about 30ish) see what type of signals are reaching the Servo/Control diaphragm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted January 24, 2009 Author Share Posted January 24, 2009 Yeah, the pump operated, Factory installed stystem, is the only one you will ever find in the FSM. Well, like I said, the buttons can be tested to make sure they are making contact when pushed. Other than that, you could VERY, VERY securly support the front end on jackstands. Then try operating the cruise control (i"d limit speed to about 30ish) see what type of signals are reaching the Servo/Control diaphragm. thought of that, might be a good way to launch my car into the shed I may try that later today but, yes, it would be good to know if any sort of voltage is getting to the servo at all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 found it. it was the cruise panel button itself now, let me defend myself a bit, I followed all the other crap because I could get to it easily to get the switch panel out I had to take off the various trim panels, drop the steering column, and remove the visor around the instrument panel - just so I could unhook the cruise control panel and unravel the wiring from the snakes nest under the steering wheel and ecu Finally, with nothing to lose, I cut the wires where I could easily splice them and put the damn cruise panel on a multimeter having no schematic or any reference material at all, I figured out by process of elimination what did what... until I realized the fault I have a small 12v switch from a computer front panel, I soldered it in and -viola- I can set it and forget it again on the long hauls I have to come up with something that doesn't look like crap to call it really done, I have some wires hanging out right now -btw- in an earlier post i said something about it being able to work, what I meant was that at least all the vacuum crappola was intact as I was able to rev the engine from under the hood with the vacuum line from the right front strut tower to the dash mess - so this week I have my cruise, all heater fan speeds and power driver window working again... sadly the passenger side mysteriously gave up after one day, but I have the panel at my feet and I'll get it sorted out I killed 'tinkerbell' and that damn 'door lock' indicator too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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