bratman18 Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 alright, I just looked and he does have the 4" lift plates. So I get the 15* part, but how far out is that offset? Is there a chance you could measure it for me? Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 i might have some time later today. i know he discontinued the 2inch kit. i would just get the 4 pieces of steel, drill the wholes 2inches apart and bend them out at about 15 degrees and call it good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 i might have some time later today. i know he discontinued the 2inch kit. i would just get the 4 pieces of steel, drill the wholes 2inches apart and bend them out at about 15 degrees and call it good. yeah that's what I plan on doing. Thanks again! I also need to know the distance between the two mount bolts on the top, the 17mm ones. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 why? just use 2 different steel plates, no room to make 1 large one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 why? just use 2 different steel plates, no room to make 1 large one. I was going off of what he sjr has on his web site. He has one plate per side, and it's bent to fit. Here's a pic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 ya for the 4inch, 2inch that is not needed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 ya for the 4inch, 2inch that is not needed So I can just use two separate pieces of steel on each side? I just thought that wouldn't be enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 thats how my SJR lift is on the back, never had any problems. i just put locktyte on all the hardware. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 thats how my SJR lift is on the back, never had any problems. i just put locktyte on all the hardware. ok thanks. So sorry for so many questions but, I have some 1/4" thick pieces of steel that measure like 1" wide, would those work? They don't need any cross bracing or anything? Thanks again, I'm just not familiar with doing it this way, but this would be much easier than the way I have always done it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 ya thats fine, just bend them, bolt them up and bolt them on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3eyedwagon Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 ok thanks. So sorry for so many questions but, I have some 1/4" thick pieces of steel that measure like 1" wide, would those work? They don't need any cross bracing or anything? Thanks again, I'm just not familiar with doing it this way, but this would be much easier than the way I have always done it. A little bit of cross bracing wouldn't be a bad idea. If they were welded together with a cross bar to make the shape of a capital H; you wouldn't have what I see as a potential problem with the pieces rotating forward or back of center. I know I've seen this problem twice already on that style of bracket. A light piece of cross bracing would eliminate this possibility, and you could even do it once you install the pieces on the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 That's what I figured, thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 (edited) You need to make a total of 4 of the blocks on the upper part of this diagram. You will need 2 of these blocks for the driver's side, and you will need 2 of these blocks for the passenger side. You then need to make 2 of the blocks from the lower part of this diagram. You need 1 of those blocks for the driver's side, and you need 1 for the passenger side. These blocks are for the front (as in front of the car, closer to the radiator than the other two mounting points) mounting point for each strut because the other design of block will not fit in between the strut, and the body. i understand how to make the blocks, my guess is they are designed to move the top of the struts to the outside of the car. what is the reason for doing this? i'm new to lifts. Edited March 13, 2009 by johnceggleston Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 i understand how to make the blocks, my guess is they are designed to move the top of the struts to the outside of the car. what is the reason for doing this? i'm new to lifts. They are actually used for moving the tops to the inside. This is to take care of the camber issue that you would get if you just dropped the strut straight down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaru_noob Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 They are actually used for moving the tops to the inside. This is to take care of the camber issue that you would get if you just dropped the strut straight down Time for an ultra-noob question: Could someone put up a pic of the angled blocks installed? I'm trying to picture this in my head but I don't think its right. So you would be installing the blocks so that they move the top of the strut towards the inner fender, correct? And because I have an '83 GL, I'd only have to do this to the front and then crank up the rear-end? :confused: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
one eye Posted March 24, 2009 Author Share Posted March 24, 2009 Time for an ultra-noob question: Could someone put up a pic of the angled blocks installed? I'm trying to picture this in my head but I don't think its right. So you would be installing the blocks so that they move the top of the strut towards the inner fender, correct? And because I have an '83 GL, I'd only have to do this to the front and then crank up the rear-end? :confused: These are not angled but it will give you some Ideas!! check this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=97436 Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killshot_kustom Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 I decided to do a lift like yours (87 wagon), I couldn't get any 2x2, unless I wanted to pay $57 for a 5 foot piece of new, so I found a 3x3 piece .250 dom. I am new to subs, what else (other that the front struts and rear shocks) am I going have to lift/drop, I apologize for my noobness. I am pretty good at figuring stuff out, just want an idea before I tear into the suspension. thanks, Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3eyedwagon Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 3 inch is going to put a bit more stress on your front axles. Most people with this 2 inch lift have stuck with only going 2 inches for a reason. Even with just the 2 inches; the axles are already stressed a bit, and at full suspension droop, they will rub a bit. I'd be a bit surprised if you can fit the 3 inch blocks in there, as we've had a bit of trouble on a few cars just getting the 2 inch blocks in. For the style of lift in this thread you only need to drop the front struts, and rear struts. That is all that is required. If you want to go any bigger; you will need to do a complete lift. It requires alot more blocks, and quite a bit more work. But, with this lift; you'll need 6 blocks to lift the front struts (there's a diagram floating around here somewhere), and flatbar bent to drop the rear struts at the top, from their original mounting position (or another way of dropping the struts). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 I just did this lift on my new sedan!! It works great and it's incredibly easy to make and especially install! I didn't even need to remove the strut!! Just drop the top down, and then put block in from the top and bolt in place, all from the top!! Thanks for the idea!! I'll post pics soon in my other thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
one eye Posted April 4, 2009 Author Share Posted April 4, 2009 I just did this lift on my new sedan!! It works great and it's incredibly easy to make and especially install! I didn't even need to remove the strut!! Just drop the top down, and then put block in from the top and bolt in place, all from the top!! Thanks for the idea!! I'll post pics soon in my other thread Pics???????????? Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 Pics???????????? Jeff I'll get some soon:grin: I promise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 Alright, here are some pics! It still has the little tires on it, but that should soon change. And here is a pic of the actual lift blocks in the front Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suberstar88 Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 Dont know if its just me, but i dont see any pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suberstar88 Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 nvm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
one eye Posted April 5, 2009 Author Share Posted April 5, 2009 You got one of the the rear, the block Idea is not to good, We started doing it with the flat bar now too............. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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