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2001 outback automatic transmission issue


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I have a 2001 outback with 119,000 miles, sometimes the trans overheat light comes on and the trans shudders but it does not seem to be overheated. To make it stop all I have to do is pull over and turn the ignition switch off momentarily and restart the car. is this something anyone has seen before? any recomendations I think there must be some electrical problem, thanks for the input!

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Signs like this indicate you need to immediately consider a few things to protect your tran$mi$$ion:

 

Have you checked the fluid level? It could easily be low.

 

Has the fluid ever been changed? It's over due.

 

Do all the tires match in type, size, tread depth and the air pressure is properly set? Your owners manual specifically addresses these tire concerns on your 4WD vehicle.

 

Has the ATF filter ever been changed - this trans has a screw on external filter similar to an oil filter on an engine. Doubtful your problem but easy to have a peak at.

 

If you live in an area where it gets really hot in the summer an aftermarket transmission cooler might be something to ask the experts about. I install one on all my vehicles since have some rough driving and have a hitch/tow things often. Hot fluid...even if it's not hot enough to trigger lights that go FLASH in your car are very bad for transmissions.

Edited by grossgary
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You may have an intermittent Duty C failure. Do not hesitate taking this to a dealer, as it can be the differnce between a 250 dollar repair and a 850.00 Repair.

 

Grossgary is correct. I dont think a fluid change will help you out, but it doesnt hurt.

 

Your getting lucky as the car is giving you a heads up (the equivilant of tightness in your chest) before major AWD issues show up.

 

Your fluid isnt overheating as much as you have an electrical issue. If it was truly overheating, just restarting the car wouldnt get rid of the light.

 

good luck

 

nipper

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Thanks for all the input, I do not actually own the car but was looking at purchasing it from a friend of mine who runs an auto repair shop, he does not really fix cars though but calls himself a preventive maint shop. The customer brought the car in because it has an external head gasket leak, the eastimate to repair was more than the guy wanted to spend, I am offered the car at 800.00usd, I am considering purchasing it and doing the head gaskets and bolts myself. I am qualified to do this work but the trans issue still bugs me, My friend thinks I can just slap a new head gasket in and go but I would think it better to have a machine shop clean the heads up and maybe mill them if needed. any coments on that from you old hat subby people, also the car has some body damage small dents and dings and the front bumper cover is damaged, is this car worth the 800.00$ with 119,000mi?

and a possible trans problem.

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On aluminum engines, its a MUST that they go to the machine shop. The head may be flat but the surface finish will not be what it was new, and that has to be restored. Both HG's need to be done. Also if its weeping you can wait months before you repair it (read summer). Just check the fluids regularly.

 

 

nipper

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  • 1 year later...

I have a 2001 Subaru Outback that the engine shuts down on when the transmission overheats. I've been told that the engine shutdown response is built into the auto's computer as a way of protecting the transmission from burning up when it is overheated. This has happened to me twice in the past year when temperatures are above 100 degrees and driving is in heavy traffic. The first time it happened I let the car cool down and was later able to proceed. I took the car and had the transmission checked and along with a computer diagnosis. Fluids were at good levels and nothing showed from the computer inquiry. I am guessing I need to install a transmission cooler. Is this a common problem with Subaru’s operated in hot climates? Any suggestions for a permanent fix?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Lets try an experiment. Shift the car yourself. If it is heavy traffic leave it in 2nd or 1st.

 

There are only three sources to overheat a tranny.

1- a clogged or failed Transmission heat exchanger in the radiator (best scenario)

2- slipping clutches

3- trailer towing.

 

I am guessing a failed transmission heat exchanger. Do you have an external tranny filter on this car (I think you do). Change the filter to start. Next would be to replace the heat exchanger with a large sized cooler. Cheap ones work just as well as expensive ones. I would bypass the failed heat exchanger all together. If that solves the problem, before winter you need to get an oil thermostat. They are not cheap but shop around you can get one for 60.00 ish. I would invest in a tranny fluid temp gauge. Tranny fluid should never exceede 100 degrees over ambiant temp.

 

 

Lets hope that is the issue. The tranny shop should have diagnosed the bad heat exchanger. They are evil places, especially if it starts with an A

 

 

nipper

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  • 1 month later...
You may have an intermittent Duty C failure. Do not hesitate taking this to a dealer, as it can be the differnce between a 250 dollar repair and a 850.00 Repair.

...

nipper

 

What happens When an intermittent Duty C failure takes place? Can repairing it really cost that much? :eek:

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What happens When an intermittent Duty C failure takes place? Can repairing it really cost that much? :eek:

 

Tes, it is the differnce between a failed solenoid or a ruined clutch pack.

 

 

Whay are you surprised about the cost? It is a major part of the car, the rear of the transmission has to come apart (in the car). There is labor invloved, but the parts are a good chunk of it if the clutches are shot. The sooner a repair is made after a problem, the cheaper it is. The longer you wait, the more parts to be replace the more expensive it is.

 

And I have had the AWD rebuilt and it is 850.00

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What happens When an intermittent Duty C failure takes place? Can repairing it really cost that much? :eek:

 

i spent 285$ at an independent shop to have the rear transfer housing swapped out on my 97 obw. i supplied the housing. no other new parts except fluid. so it can be expensive. the duty c cost a little under 100$, i think, online so that would be in addition to the labor.

 

when my 95 lego had an intermittent duty c it was exactly as it sounded. sometimes it would bind and sometimes it would not. sometimes the AT Temp light would flash at start up and others not. sometimes the FWD fuse would eliminate the problem and sometimes not.

 

so i pulled the rear section of the drive shaft and it is now FWD all the time, runs great.

Edited by johnceggleston
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