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Hey all:

 

I've read the instructions for seating the torque converter and have been attempting to do it for about an hour now. I can get it to the first and second stops, but no luck on the final seating. I will just keep trying, but thought I'd ask those who've done it before if this is common.

 

I'm very close on getting this thing running. Used engine with 80 something k miles, new timing belt, pullies, water pump, and thermostat. Getting the radiator checked out on monday and will replace if needed, but this dang torque converter is giving me a hard time. Any additional info appreciated.

 

Thanks.

 

Daniel

 

oh yeah this is a 1998 impreza obs

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Take a break.

 

Perhaps some food.

 

Come back later.

 

Usually works for me.

 

I had one that was so tough I put 4 long bolts into the TC with 1/2 plastic pipe over them to make it easy to spin the TC, lift it up, wiggle it around, etc.

 

Took 2 breaks and a friend stopping in to get that one done.

 

Sometimes they are just moody.

 

Dave

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So when I pulled the engine the t/c came with it. On the tranny there are two splined shafts that go into the t/c, a small one that sticks out the most and a larger one that surrounds the smaller one. There was a tube with a spring clip on it that surrounded both of the splined shafts.

 

I just removed this tube with the spring clip and attached it to the t/c. It had two little raised spots 180 degrees apart that fit perfectly into the notches at the end of the t/c and there even is a place for the spring clip to seat in the end of the t/c. After doing this the t/c seated easily in all three places and now matches what I've read here.

 

Does it seem like I've described this as others have seen it? Never done an automatic before, so I would love some input. Hoping to not kill my (my wife's actually) tranny. Thanks.

 

Daniel

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So when I pulled the engine the t/c came with it.

 

 

I always swear I'm gonna make something to tell me when they are seated for future reference. They are sneaky. I haven't ruined one yet but that's mostly because I'm paranoid knowing how often this is posted here.

 

Some excellent pics on a procedure somewhere here at USMB. Some black market lines on the tabs.

 

Seems to me about 1/4" or less of the 'tabs' showing is what it is. But I haven't done an automatic in about a month.

 

Dave

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Just a question but why did you pull the t/c when you pulled the motor?

My question too.

 

 

I always unbolt the TC fromt eh flexplate.

 

If the TC has been removed formt eh trans, I find it easier to install it first, with the engine out. Then install the engine. Then bolt the TC and flexplate toghether through the access hole, after mating engine to trnasmission.

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I did it this way because I didnt have a tool that could get in and undo the bolts on the flex plate. My box wrench wouldn't stay on the nut and the socket wrench wouldn't fit. I now have the intake moved out of the way and have learned my lesson for the future.

 

Daniel

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FWIW I find the gearwrench swivel ratchet (1/4") - or the snap-on for twice the price with a 1/4 drive 12mm works for me. (see the tool thread).

 

But sometimes the TC will still come out partly or entirely with the engine anyways.

 

Dave

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1/4" Drive with a 6 point socket, slip a box end wrench over the ratchet handle for extra leverage.

 

When all four bolts are out slide the TC back about a 1/4".

 

Once the engine is out wire the TC back through the starter hole in the trans to keep it engaged. Reverse when you install.

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I am in the same boat. I pulled the 2.5L engine from my wife's '98 Outback,189,000 miles, the TC came out with the engine,all four bolts removed, as well with the center shaft. I can get the converter/ shaft within a 1/4" of fully seated but that is as far as it will go. I'm using a 17mm socket and ratchet on the pilot bearing/nub to support the T/C while rotating the T/C right and then left. No luck. the T/C is locked on the shaft, which was fully removed from the transaxle.

Any ideas?

Edited by Lindaw
more info
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It will settle back into the transmission but can be annoying at times. I hold the center nub up with one hand and spin it with the other. If you dont hold it up it will rotate on the wrong axis and won't sink in.

 

Place the trans on a jack stand an inch or so above the engine crossmember to make stabbing the engine easier.

 

The holes for the torque converter bolts to engine flexplate will be flush with the bellhousing when its in all the way. If you aren't sure take a picture and post. Stabbing it with the converter sticking out will destroy the oil pump in the transmission and make your life miserable for a few days.

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After many hours trying to seat the converter as per posts, I manually re-seated the center input shaft. Rotated the shaft by hand, first detent, second detent. The third detent took some time to find the mesh of the splines, like a lock picker. With reservations, I gently tapped the center shaft with a rubber hammer. It went right in. The T/Q followed and looks just like the pics. I still hope that I didn't hurt anything inside the transaxle. Putting the engine in tomorrow, Temperature should be in the middle 20's. 6 by Sunday morning.

 

Thanks for all the help, will be back, I'm sure of that.

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  • 2 weeks later...

All is well. Finished the engine install. Got the hood on last night with the wife's help?. Took it for a good ride. Got it home, with no tranny problems at all. Got up this morning, checked coolant level, and took off for a 50 mile drive. Drove like a champ. The replacement engine has 105,000 miles and was resealed by a Subaru shop, not dealer. $950 for the engine and $200 for the reseal, timing belt and platuim plugs.

 

Thanks for all the help.

Edited by Lindaw
bad spelling
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