Questions about McIntosh and Aux in

[cidion]

Ok,

 

I've read a bunch of posts about the McIntosh head unit, and CD changers, and Clarion, and I'm still unclear.

 

I have the 6 disk In-dash changer, and I'm trying to have Aux in, so I can hook up my iPhone to the system. (FM modulator is really not my style)

 

Today, a friend and I took apart the dash to see what the back of the head unit looked like. it didn't help much.

 

It was hard to see, but I there was a squarish plug on the back, that might be a C-net plug. It was on the drivers side.

 

I was also hoping for a model number, or some kind of tag. It did say A38 on the back of the head unit, and had the numbers: 6280562, and 19102 as well.. *shrugs*

 

I found This thing, but I'm not sure if it would work since my cd "changer is in the dash

 

I just want to know, is there a way to get Aux in? and if so, how?

 

Thanks guys for the help.

 

=)

[idosubaru]

if you reconsider FM modulators again, look at the ones that are in-line.

 

most of them that you see are the "wireless" style, those do suck, i hate them. i have used the inline style and they're perfect. they actually plug in line with the antenna wire and don't have any of the issues of all the typical wireless ones on the market.

 

they are still annoying in that you have to power them and turn them on.

[Scoobywagon]

Pull your stereo entirely out of the dash and look at it. The Ce-Net connector is square and has 13 pins, 2 of which are larger than the others. Frankly, I'd look for a reputable local stereo shop and make nice with a couple of the sales and install people. Then see if they have any of the Ce-Net accessories available for you to experiment with. Remember, that you will not get any charging for an iPhone.

 

You could reconsider the FM Modulator thing, as GrossGary said. Look for a wired one. the model I sell and install here is the Clarion FM200. We've had good luck with them, so far as it goes. I maintain that FM modulators univerally suck, but this one sucks a bit less than most of the others I've ever had to deal with.

 

I need to get some of the locals to bring some cars into my shop so I can do some plug and play experimenting. Any volunteers?

[cidion]

Thanks again for the advice.

 

I did see the back of the unit, and I think what I see is the 13pin connector.

 

I think I'm going to buy the PIE aux in adapter, and try it out. we have a trip from TN, to CO coming up in a few weeks, and I'l like to get it worked out before the trip.

[idosubaru]

I think I'm going to buy the PIE aux in adapter, and try it out. we have a trip from TN, to CO coming up in a few weeks, and I'l like to get it worked out before the trip.

 

if you could info or even pictures on it, that would be fantastic. i have a McIntosh unit in my OBW as well and would totally go for an AUX IN set up as well.

 

i have no clue about the PIE aux in adapter you're talking about though or the 13 pin this and that. i mean i've replaced subaru stereo's before but i'm not sure what the connector/pins have to do with this AUX in device.

 

good luck, hope it works out. sounds fairly straight forward.

[Scoobywagon]

Which PIE part are you looking at?

[Cougar]

The factory info I have for the McIntosh system is pretty sketchy but it does identify the speaker output connections along with the power leads going to the seperate amplifier for the system. There are four other pin connections in the connector but the drawing doesn't show what those pins do. I can only think that these pins are for the input L/R connections to the input of the amp coming from the head unit. They should be shielded leads.

 

I suspect pins 4 an 12 are for the right side input and 5 an 13 are for the left side input if the wiring follows the same way the speakers are connected to the amp. To see if my thinking is correct about this first see if the wires are shielded. If they are, then I think I'm on the right track. The next thing you could do is monitor those leads to check for audio on them. Using an analog voltmeter should work. You could also use a set of computer speakers that have a built-in amp. You would need to make a set of test leads to connect to the speaker input connection. Once the leads are identified you would have to then make up a 'Y' cable with a switched common output in order to connect the external device and the input from the head unit. Using some RCA connectors to do that would make things nice.

 

If you looking for an AUX Input inside the head unit, that would require some major surgery and would be harder to do than this other method of just using the external amp input.

Edited January 28, 2009 by Cougar