Txakura Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 Time for war... get the window down if you can, and tap the door snubber pin loose. If you can't move the window, I have used a 1 amp motorcycle trickle charger to carefully power the window motor directly the window master panel wiring connects behind the driver kick panel, the column wiring is exposed for some other work - don't pay attention to it loosen the fender, the two famous bolts behind the bumper can stay in place don't panic, my fender was wrinkled last November sliding into a ditch - not doing this now you can actually get to the door hinge bolts I'm not too worried about my paint, it was ok to just set it down gently awesome overview of mess pull the grommet off the door frame and feed the wire bundle through set it down to work on it I cut the factory tape off and here is the whole problem, the wires broke from rubbing on the edge of the door cutout after 19 years I wasn't expecting the main ground to be broken, the driver window still worked (after I had replaced the main power wire on top of the existing bundle)- by grounding out through some other part of the bundle, but the passenger side didn't work at all. When I added the new power wire on top of the existing bundle, apparently the main ground finally gave up and broke, disconnecting the passenger side - just like flicking the window lock your passenger circuit has to be complete at this panel otherwise it won't work from either door repaired bundle with fresh wire and splices you don't need to cut this grommet, I had already cut it to run the previous repair , I added a little atv so that it would seal after I taped it all back up and put it in re-taped a little too far, had to take some off later - no big re-connected to make sure it worked before I buttoned it up same as above I hung it off the striker and used the outline from the hinge sealant to get it back in place, it was off about 2-3 mm at the striker with the bolts snug. I just jockeyed it around until it lined up and closed correctly - then tightened the bolts fully In hindsight, it was much easier to pull the fender loose and drop the door than it was to try and fix the wiring in place - and it didn't take very long either; definitely one of those easier to bite the bullet than try to get around it affairs hope this helps some other soul save time and frustration 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 under the carpet in the passenger side foot well there is a bundle of 5 red wires that on my car were corroded to the point that none of the windows worked. i found this out after i pulled the door off took the entire wiring harness out of the door unwrapped and checked every wire. also the location of the relay and control unit is under the pass front seat close to the door jam. so if only one of the windows doesnt work then all of the sudden none of them work i'd check that first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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