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progress with the hatch


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its not a crate engine, its from my wife's wrecked old legacy wagon.

 

this whole thing hasn't cost me much at all - i already had the paint, my dad did the powdercoating (both crossmembers, control arms, radius rods and clutch fork), and i've been slowly buying suspension parts for months.

 

i have spent lots of time cleaning crap...probably too much....

 

 

i'm trying to decide how i should install the proportioning valve for my rear discs. i'm deleteing the hill-holder and i kinda think i should bolt it in there. any ideas/pics?

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well if you can powder coat the clutch fork, which i see you did via photo, then might as well....never mind, wow nice nice build are you selling or trading when its done? my brat would be up for trade if so, possibly,

 

i powder coat whenever i have time. i can get it done for the cost of powder so the time it takes is my limiting factor. i hope to do some more before i'm done.

 

this car is gonna be my daily driver. i long-term plan is an RX full-time 3.70 setup. the brat's gonna be the wheeler.:headbang:

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Holy crap super clean car!!! That's gonna be real nice when it's done! Everything looks so new. As for the proportioning valves for the rear discs, I don't think you need to do anything. Just use the stock setup. That's what I did with great results and I know a few others have as well. Keep us updated on this project, I know we will all want to :slobber: over it!:lol::banana::grin:

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what he is saying is that you do not need a proportioning valve.just get fittings to connect the lines if you want to get rid of the hillholder.

 

cheers, brian

 

i've heard folks say both ways about the need for the pro valve. i haven't actually heard of anyone who's had problems without it.

 

guess i just need a second 3-way block then.

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the proper way is to swap in the prop valve as well as the rear disk, simply because the factory set up with rear drums doesn't put much pressure to the back because drums have so much more surface area for stopping so the factory used lower pressure to the rear.

 

swap in the prop valve, you have the time and space it looks like.

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yeah, i talked to one of my mopar buddies and he strongly suggested using the p-valve. he says it may be unsafe at high speeds without the "proper" distribution of force to front/rear wheels. apples and oranges to his experience, but i think the principle carries over.

 

i'll put a second 3-way block in there to delete the hill holder then i'm thinking i'll add the p-valve mounted to the frame rail under the booster, right before the lines separate.

 

i'd have to cut the metal lines to add it in that way. i can grab some of those brake line nuts, but is there a way to make the ends look like they do at the other fittings after cutting them? would that be a tube flaring tool?

Edited by mountaingoatgruff
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i'm trying to mate the ej to the 5 speed right now but i've never had this much trouble. they'll come all but the last 1/2". input shaft has engaged clutch disc splines, seems its the tip of the input shaft hanging up on the pilot bearing. taking a break before i get pissed...

 

this flywheel and EA82 clutch set was installed on this trans with another ej and different adapter plate before so there should be no reason it wouldn't fit. i'm using an sjr adapter now because the old one was a joke. any ideas?

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i tried that last weekend.

 

i finally pulled it all apart again and found the pilot bearing is crooked. i'll have to reinstall it tomorrow.

 

i noticed while they were close, the crossmember's engine mount surfaces and the bottoms of the the mounts seem to be at different angles. anyone else noticed this before? does it make bolting them difficult?

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