Rotating the Crank pulley?

[vincentmoy]

Hi guys,

 

Finally my friend and I are going to tickle the timing belt for the first time (both of us) tomorrow. Really excited and anxious about it cause I have NO extra for another Eng...

 

Anyways, I have heard people saying to rotate the crank pulley to line up the timing mark and hand rotate the pulley to make sure no contact is made after the new belt is on. I am wondering do I do that in neutral (I have a 5MT) and with e-brake off?

 

I know if I need to take the crank bolt off I need to pop it in 5th and e-brake/brake on. I figure that would lock the crank tight but when I need to turn it I need to do the opposite.

 

Am I getting it right?

 

Thank you so much. You guys have been really helpful!

 

Vincent

[lostinthe202]

Hiya,

 

What year, model, engine do you have?

 

The T-belt job is a pretty easy one if you go in with the right info. I highly recommend doing some searches on here for info, there are several really good threads. Also go to endwrench.com and look up your model engine for some great step by step instructions.

 

There are several ways to get the crank bolt off, the one you mentioned can work. I use the starter moter + long breaker bar method. Putting it back on however you should not use the engine's compression/drive train as you will be trying to spin your motor the wrong way which is not favorable if you have a 2.5l or a '97 or later 2.2l as these are interference engines.

 

You can buy a tool to hold the crank pulley, or if you're handy, once you have the pulley off, you can make something to hold the pulley stationary. Again do some searching here and you'll get all your questions answered.

 

Good Luck!!

 

Will-

[vincentmoy]

Hiya,

 

What year, model, engine do you have?

 

The T-belt job is a pretty easy one if you go in with the right info. I highly recommend doing some searches on here for info, there are several really good threads. Also go to endwrench.com and look up your model engine for some great step by step instructions.

 

There are several ways to get the crank bolt off, the one you mentioned can work. I use the starter moter + long breaker bar method. Putting it back on however you should not use the engine's compression/drive train as you will be trying to spin your motor the wrong way which is not favorable if you have a 2.5l or a '97 or later 2.2l as these are interference engines.

 

You can buy a tool to hold the crank pulley, or if you're handy, once you have the pulley off, you can make something to hold the pulley stationary. Again do some searching here and you'll get all your questions answered.

 

Good Luck!!

 

Will-

 

Sorry... it's 98 Imp OBS with EJ22 in it. I know it is an interference so no room for errors:-\

 

I've been reading threads after threads after threads on timing belt change here and over NASIOC. Tons of info on how to take them apart:) and now I'm thinking on how to put them back together.

 

When I tighten the crank bolt can I use the 5th gear with brakes on method?

 

Thanks

[lostinthe202]

When I tighten the crank bolt can I use the 5th gear with brakes on method?

 

Thanks

 

I can't say if others have used this method with success. You want that bolt tight, like around 140 ft/lbs or it can come loose and trash the crank key-way and, worst case scenario, take out the T-belt components and possibly the valve train. If you have a torque wrench that goes to 150 ft/lbs, maybe give it a try. If you get in the neighborhood of 140 ft/lbs, call it good. But getting to 140 will invlove a lot of hysteresis or "flex" in the system so if you just put a long bar on the bolt and pull as hard as you can, you won't really know if you are applying all of that torque to the bolt or if some of it is getting lost in the resistance of the all the moving parts ( drive train, brakes, etc.)

[davebugs]

I don't see a good compromise for this. I had a tool made to hold the harmonic balancer. It has about a 2' handle and I use a 2' breaker bar with the socket for the bolt. I get it as tight as I can - never heard of a bolt breaking. But have heard of and witnessed them coming loose and the damage done.

 

Especially if you don't have a tool to remove the bolt if you're doing this in the car I find the hitting the starter trick to work well. I place part of an old TB under the handle of the breaker bar where it hits the body over by the battery. One of my snap-on breaker bars only hits by about 1/4" but that's enough. Takes 2 though - one to hit the key, one to watch.

 

I haven't seen what I consider an acceptable workaround to having the right tool for this. The only 2 tools I've had made for working on Suby's are tools to hold the harmonic balancer/crank pulley on 2.2 and 2.5's.

 

Putting that much leverage on the bolt with all the slop in the engine, clutch, tranny you're not gonna get it tight - in my opinion. You won't have enough 'throw'. Just my opinion.

 

Dave

[idosubaru]

this will work to get it off, but getting it on is much more important (risky if not done correctly).

 

the trans in gear and brake method will work. but you better be DARN sure it's tight. then when you think it's tight, try it again 3 more times, since this is your first time.

 

i've done it but i don't recommend it if it's your first time. defiinitely use the brake, there's lots of play with the trans and car rocking. the ebrake isn't enough.

 

bumping the starter is the easy way to remove. or the "ghetto" impact tool which is a BFH to end of your socket or breaker bar.

 

just the timing belt is easy, but is that all you're doing? have you considered doing anything else? it's annoying but sometimes well worth it and prudent. that's a fantastic engine that's almost a gaurantee to make the next 60,000-100,000 miles trouble free if taken care of.

 

I just pulled everything for my 1997 Impreza OBS last week and all of the pulleys but one were noisey and I replaced. I'd get an ebay timing belt kit before doing this job, they're only $60-$80 and they include all the pulleys.

 

a new belt will fail once one of the pulleys seize. at 10+ years old at least your idler is going to be free spinning and noisy.

 

compress the tensioner very, very slowly. do'nt be in a rush, the style in your 98 are notorious for failing when compressed.

 

if the car is leaking any oil now is the time to fix that as well. the seals and orings are hard and brittle and leaks will only get worse. be annoying to take the timing belt off in a year or two to do a $3 seal that's right there after taking the timing belt off.

 

lots of info on the board already if you have any questions about this.

[vincentmoy]

Well... plan changed as my friend has a problem with his car so he couldn't help me today :banghead:

 

I have all 2 smooth pulleys, 1 tooth pulley, tensioner, t-stat, as well as water pump and some seals ready to get in. They're all new and oem, and a lot of $$ :-\ Now I only need a garage and tools to put them in.

 

I'm praying that the car won't act up before next week, I am tight on $$ and can't afford anything major now:(

 

Now everytime I start my car cold, there is a low pitch squeaking noise coming out the eng bay for a sec or 2. My friend said it sounds like from one of the pulleys... I wish it's just from the drive belt area and not the timing...

 

I have this car for about a mo. and that's the only major concern of mine. Other than that this is a fabulous car:cool:

[ShawnW]

You can check the squeek to isolate it by removing the ac and alt belts and starting the car for a short time. If the squeek continues its likely in the t-belt area. If it doesnt put one belt on at a time and try.

[ShawnW]

 

I haven't seen what I consider an acceptable workaround to having the right tool for this. The only 2 tools I've had made for working on Suby's are tools to hold the harmonic balancer/crank pulley on 2.2 and 2.5's.

Dave

 

Find a tapered punch.

 

On the pass side of the engine bellhousing is a hole that is threaded about half way down the side of the bellhousing. Some cars a bracket bolted in here but most dont. Put the punch in there and put a 22MM socket on your breaker bar/long ratchet and hold the punch till you feel it lock into the flywheel teeth. This can be used to torque it down as well. Its plenty strong just be careful that you are putting your hands in a position that if the punch slips out of the teeth or the teeth break(never had this happen in 400 cars or more so far) you wont slam into something.

 

The Subaru dealer tools are pronged tools that go into the harmonic balancer pulley (Crank pulley). They work but you need 3 different ones to date to do all Subarus.

[vincentmoy]

Well... plan changed as my friend has a problem with his car so he couldn't help me today :banghead:

 

I have all 2 smooth pulleys, 1 tooth pulley, tensioner, t-stat, as well as water pump and some seals ready to get in. They're all new and oem, and a lot of $$ :-\ Now I only need a garage and tools to put them in.

 

I'm praying that the car won't act up before next week, I am tight on $$ and can't afford anything major now:(

 

Now everytime I start my car cold, there is a low pitch squeaking noise coming out the eng bay for a sec or 2. My friend said it sounds like from one of the pulleys... I wish it's just from the drive belt area and not the timing...

 

I have this car for about a mo. and that's the only major concern of mine. Other than that this is a fabulous car:cool:

 

So how do you put the bolt back on?

 

Vincent

[davebugs]

Find a tapered punch.

 

On the pass side of the engine bellhousing is a hole that is threaded about half way down the side of the bellhousing. Some cars a bracket bolted in here but most dont. Put the punch in there

 

I have the tool for the harmonic balancer. But I'd like to identify this hole for possible use. I don't recall seeing it. Guess I'll have to look over some parts engines today. I suppose the same on 2.5's as 2.2's?