lmdew Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 The car had this code when I got it. I cleared the code, P0400 EGR and it was gone for about 100 miles. A shop had put a new EGR Valve on it before I got it. I checked all the vacuum lines, and changed the following off another 2.5 manifold I had: EGR Valve EGR Solenoid EGR Transducer (round part above and forward of the EGR volve. I also blew out the lines and checked for leaks. I drove it about 30 miles with the D-Check (green connector) hooked up and it passed the check. Three days later (200 miles) , the code is back :>( What to check next? PS I sold this car, but want to fix this problem for the new owner. I thought I had it fixed. Thanks Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 Carbon buildup in the head where the EGR pipe joins to it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleming442 Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 Just throwin' darts in the dark, but..... wouldn't an over-rich condition throw an EGR malfunction? I was just thinking that a valve stuck shut would be rich and one stuck open would be lean. So, if something else caused the mixture problem, but it wasn't enough change to trigger P0420...... Just thinking out loud; don't hang me yet! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 Larry -- 1) Warm the engine, then verify if you can see the EGR valve operate if you rev the engine. 2) With the engine idling, disconnect the vacuum hose at the EGR valve, and apply some vacuum to the valve (just a few inches should be enough) with either a hand pump or even sucking on a length of hose by mouth. The valve should operate, and if the exhaust passages are okay, the idle should significantly falter. Let us know what happens in each case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted February 8, 2009 Author Share Posted February 8, 2009 Thanks for the info, I'm on the road for the week so it will be a bit before I can get back to the car. I'll check as advised and see what I can find out. Thanks Again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 Replace the little round air filter in line with the vacuum hose on the passengers side. Follow the vacuum hoses from the solenoid on the passengers side strut tower. one that runs to the engine area will have a small round filter (about the size of a quarter) on it. replace that filter. $7 from Subaru. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted February 22, 2009 Author Share Posted February 22, 2009 Replaced the small filter and checked the EGR at idle for opening and flow. It checked good and the code has not come back. The Crank Sensor was also flagged, the PO had the car checked several times and the Mechanics had said it need a crank sensor. When I pulled it out I found the 2 wires going to the sensor bare right at the back of the plug. I repaired the wiring and its good to go. Thanks for the assistance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 I just ordered one of these for a customer. Subaru PN 22633AA010 $7.50 and available still if anybody needs one I can ship it. They are stocked at the dealer here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Shawn: that part number gives me a "Throttle sensor ay" for $273 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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