msmithmmx Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 It started as a bad wheel bearing and now has turned into a new suspension. What does anyone recommend for removing the inner tie rod boot, inner tie rod and ball joint from knuckle. Need some hints on tools. Links would be awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 I have posted here before that I usually 'rent' the front end service kit from Advance (Not the balljoint kit). There is a tie rod puller (or something - small - 2 permanent fingers) that I use for the lower balljoint if necessary (it doesn't come off with nut off, beating LCA with a sledge a few times. Sometimes you gotta grind just a little to be able to get it onto the LCA at the seam. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 Inner Tierod boot just pulls off. Clamp at one end, the inner side slides over a grove in the rack housing. I believe the inner tie rod connection unscrews, but there is a locking tab there you have to take care of. You might find a good used rack cheaper than the tie rod new. The outter tie rod to hub connection can be seperated with a pickle fork or by holding a sledge on one side and hitting the other side with a large hammer, after you pulled the nut of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted February 9, 2009 Author Share Posted February 9, 2009 Got it all off but for that inner tie rod, Need a special tool... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 Got it all off but for that inner tie rod, Need a special tool... Nah, you shouldn't need anything but a big as wrench and a set of channel locks. Lowering the rack down just a bit helps, loosen the clamps that hold the lines and it can drop an inch or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 ^what he said, I just needed a bigger wrench and I used a pair of vise grips because that what I had. But before that you just need to deal with the lock ring that is just bent in to lock it in place. Very easy to do just have another look at it. Good luck!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdjdc Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 Aside from the knuckle being bad, what else is bad now. I have the entire rack here if you need any parts off it. Let me know. By the way, your knuckles are on the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcspeer Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 If you have around fifty dollars to spend you can get a nice inner tie rod removal tool from Harbor Freight. You can see it on their web site, you might also be able to rent one from one of the auto parts store. I got mine off without this tool but it is not an easy job, after doing it once I orderd the tool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted February 10, 2009 Author Share Posted February 10, 2009 Lowering the rack will not help me I still have the sway bar in place and in the way. I can't lower the sway bar because the jack stands are in the swap bar mounts. I saw that tool for removing inner tie rods. I am going to loan one from Autozone. Any advice getting the ball joint from the knuckle? I have the whole knuckle out. I can see why this costs so much at a shop. Lots of time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted February 10, 2009 Author Share Posted February 10, 2009 ^what he said, I just needed a bigger wrench and I used a pair of vise grips because that what I had. But before that you just need to deal with the lock ring that is just bent in to lock it in place. Very easy to do just have another look at it. Good luck!! Let me say thank you, I would never have seen those notches if I did not take a closer look. I am sure I would have torn up the rack. I still can't get much leverage. I will loan that tool from Autozone. Are the vice grips to hold the rack shaft as I lossen the inner tie rod? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcspeer Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 When you get the inner tie rod removal tool from Auto Zone, go ahead and get the ball joint removal tool also, you may want to buy the ball joint tool instead of renting it. It is very cheap. They come out easy with this tool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdjdc Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 I forgot to tell you that the knuckles I sent you have perfect ball joints in them too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 get some channel lock plyers, pull the inner boot back and get a good grip on it and twist it off. i do it all the time this way without any issues. outter i just smack the knuckle with a hammer until it pops out. ball joint i pull the 14mm pinch bolt, then pry the ball joint out of the knuckle, then remove the 19m castle nut and hit the ball joint bolt until it comes out. should take only about 15minutes to get the tie rods off as well as the ball joint. another 20-30 to install and drive to the alignment shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted February 11, 2009 Author Share Posted February 11, 2009 OK, I give up..... How do you get those little nasty notches undone from the inner tie rod. They are holding the whole project up. They are at a very bad position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 OK, I give up..... How do you get those little nasty notches undone from the inner tie rod. They are holding the whole project up. They are at a very bad position. Just loosen it up, they should just slide past, but if they don't, try a flat head screw driver and a hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted February 11, 2009 Author Share Posted February 11, 2009 Ok, I moved the steering wheel all they way to the side I was working. This way I was able to work inside the wheel well. Working under the car on jack stands freaks me out some. With some time I was able to knock those grooves out. And as suggested I took a pair of channel locks and bang.... of it came. Any suggestion on getting the break cable off the strut tower. I am replacing the front stuts and springs as well. This all started as a wheel bearing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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