schlite60 Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 is there another way to torque head bolts with out the use of degree adapter. I have a very good and certified torque wrench. Plus the confusing way of doing a head gasket. There has to better way. My 5.9 Cummins diesel uses degree adapter and everybody uses 125 foot pounds in 3 steps instead. I think some of the problem is head bolts coming loose after allot of heating and cooling cycles with the engine. steel expands/contracts at a different rate than alum! how do you check the torque of the bolts on the engine? Are there Ti bolts out there for the engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zefy Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 never heard of Ti bolts for subies however there are ARP head stud kits available for the motors. not particularly cheap though. they are torque to yield bolts so they stretch after they are tightened up. The reason for all the weird tightening scheme is to stretch them slowly and safely. It is a very good call to follow the standard procedure and really, for the amount time you spend torquing a the bolts properly will save you from doing it again in the near future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickensheets Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 You dont need the adapter. Just eyeball it. If you dont trust your eye then mark points with a sharpie. Works good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 As he said above. Use a sharpie and mark each bolt with a line. This way you can eye ball the degree's 90 and 180 is easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 do it as the factory says, they did it that way for a reason. if you stud the block then you go by the same sequence, but different torque for the new studs. but unless you are running a high boost app then studs are a waist of your money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 never heard of Ti bolts for subies however there are ARP head stud kits available for the motors. not particularly cheap though. they are torque to yield bolts so they stretch after they are tightened up. The reason for all the weird tightening scheme is to stretch them slowly and safely. I No they aren't. TTY bolts are used in other engines but NOT SUBARU. The aluminum threads in the engine would give WAY before the Steel bolt stretches. I think this myth is perpetuated by being printed in Chiltons or haynes or something. But Subaru makes no mention of useing new bolts, and acttually offers a page for *inspection* of old bolts for reuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 Actually thats not true about subaru saying to not use new bolts. 2000+ must have new head bolts installed. Thats from teh dealer themselves up here. The parts manager told me that when I bought headgaskets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abog Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 !st gen EJ25 head bolts can be reused as long as inpected. 2nd gen Ej25 head bolts are supposed to be replaced. Personally have reused both on many engines and have never had a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 !st gen EJ25 head bolts can be reused as long as inpected. 2nd gen Ej25 head bolts are supposed to be replaced. Personally have reused both on many engines and have never had a problem. They are identical bolts. It is only the recommendation that changed, not any functional change in the bolt or engine design. They are still not TTY. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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