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I have a 98 legacy outback, 2.5 with 167,XXX miles. It does have torque bind symptoms and the light flashes 16 times at start up. I can not figure out how to read the TCU codes. I took the black pin wires and put it into terminal 5 and nothing happens. Key on, Key off, the D,3,2,1, push accelerator proceedure that I read about in another post etc. Tried separate wire to body to ground terminal 5 and this too did not work. Basically I would like to know what's the trick to get the code to flash?

 

Side note I put fuse in FWD socket and the FWD light did not come on at the dash. Not sure what that means. Clutches stuck?

 

I would hate to go to the dealership for this because it seems so straight forward.

 

I have an idea that it is probaby Duty C solenoid and probably clutches, but hate to just start chucking parts at things.

 

Last question - Where is everyone buying parts for these tranny's? (online - not local dealer)

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Forgot to mention that the tires are all new, balanced, properly inflated and rotated regularly. Transmission fluid was changed 4times by me last October and some Lucas put in. This was done preventitivly and did not cause any issues.

 

I think then its time for an AWD rebuild.

 

 

Sounds like you tried everything.

 

nipper

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Can anyone post the AWD rebuild proceedure? I read (and printed out) proceedures on grinding grooves out of hub etc, but found nothing on rebuilding AWD. Nice pictures though.

 

Is this just replacing the clutch disks? Seems pretty straight forward if that is the case.

 

As far as grinding out the grooves on the hub, there seems to be some questions on this causing fluid pressure loss. Is grinding down the teeth on the hub a thing that works or causes additional problems?

 

More questions. I read in other posts that you can change solenoid C with trans in the car, but can you get the AWD out and remove drive drum (not sure if I have right terminology for parts) with transmission in car?

 

In case nobody noticed I am a newbee to tranny repair.

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i would look at the rear clutches are almost standard mechanical work, not trans work. i think you'll be fine, particularly with all the help from the board.

 

i'd plan on just replacing the clutches and duty solenoid C, which can be done in the car, while the rear extension housing is off to replace the clutches.

 

good chance you won't have to worry about the grinding part...actually i'm not sure what you're talking about. i mean i undersatnd what you're saying but i didn't know or think that was common.

 

good luck!

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i would look at the rear clutches are almost standard mechanical work, not trans work. i think you'll be fine, particularly with all the help from the board.

 

i'd plan on just replacing the clutches and duty solenoid C, which can be done in the car, while the rear extension housing is off to replace the clutches.

 

good chance you won't have to worry about the grinding part...actually i'm not sure what you're talking about. i mean i undersatnd what you're saying but i didn't know or think that was common.

 

good luck!

 

It is in this post by Steamin53 - "More on Torque Bind" It is long, but there are good pictures of what was discussed. Looks like an easy fix, just worried about this causing additional problems.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78467&highlight=steamin53

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Is this just replacing the clutch disks? Seems pretty straight forward if that is the case.

 

pretty much, there are different plates and a specific order but thats all.

 

some questions on this causing fluid pressure loss. Is grinding down the teeth on the hub a thing that works or causes additional problems?

 

my understanding from reading the repair post is that the grooves cause the plates to hang up, which either delays / prevents engagement or locks it in 4wd, not sure which. eliminating the grooves eliminates the problem.

 

More questions. I read in other posts that you can change solenoid C with trans in the car, but can you get the AWD out and remove drive drum (not sure if I have right terminology for parts) with transmission in car?

 

the duty c and one hub (and i think the clutch plates) are in the rear extension housing which you can remove with the trans in the car. there is a second hub attached to the trans which mates to the one in the rear housing. but i don't think that's the hub that wears, not sure.

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yes, jamie works for them and is a board member here.

 

there are other threads about online OEM suppliers. libery subaru, Auburn subaru, 1stsubaruparts.com, etc...you can find more by searching for those threads.

 

Each one varies slightly in pricing and the way they do shipping.

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