idosubaru Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 Repacking the timing belt pulleys with a needle attachment on a grease gun is a great idea and solution by Wayne, who very rarely visits here. With EA82 timing kits only $60-$80 I doubt anyone on here even does this. But XT6 kits are $400! I'm wondering how others get the grease into the bearings? Namely, how do you carefully pry up the seal with minimal damage? I've been doing this for a few years now with no problems. The seals are old and the rubber overlaid on them does tend to flake/chip off. Not really a big deal since they're only 60,000 mile belts and I can do it again anyway. But thought maybe someone had some experience. I gently pry up the inside edge of the seal. Start with a thin cutting blade, then get a small screw driver in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 ive seen it done, never liked it because the next time you go to do the belts they are covered in grease. but if you have good luck, hey its a easy way to save some money, i would do it if im broke, but if you can afford it, just buy new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 11, 2009 Author Share Posted February 11, 2009 ive seen it done, never liked it because the next time you go to do the belts they are covered in greasenot if they're packed light. packing them lightly won't get grease on the belt. first time i filled them, like you said, grease came out everywhere. i don't recall any getting on the belt, but that was a few years ago. i've toned it down since then and haven't had any problems. don't overfill. but if you have good luck, hey its a easy way to save some money, i would do it if im broke, but if you can afford it, just buy new.agreed, i buy the entire kits for the EA and EJ stuff, they're reasonable and i've lost count of how many i've bought. $400 for the pulleys is outrageous though for an XT6 - that's about what i pay for the car! new for $400 XT6 ones is senseless, since this works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 i understand they are ok when packed right, i was just saying everytime ive seen someone do it grease got EVERYWHERE. but ya the kits are the best way if you can afford it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 12, 2009 Author Share Posted February 12, 2009 but ya the kits are the best way if you can afford it.we can disagree, i can afford it but don't consider it the best way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 Why not just buy the bearings from a bearing house and press them into the pulley's? Might have to fab some adaptors to press the old bearings out or the new one's in, but it would save quite a bit of money I should think. I've looked at the EA82 one's and I would do it in a second if I ran EA82's and if the kit's weren't cheap as dirt. For an ER27 I would do it for sure. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 12, 2009 Author Share Posted February 12, 2009 Why not just buy the bearings from a bearing house and press them into the pulley's?yeah i went that route like a decade ago. PITA so far. i haven't been able to get the bearings out of the pulleys. last attempt on a good working pulley, the pulley shattered before the bearing moved. do you think this should be doable without a press? i mean, i guess i know the answer is "yes", but i wasn't able to do it. frankly building all the adapters and set up to do it sounds annoying when i already have a method that works. i'd like to be able to do that, but like i said - i'm not having any problems with the current way of doing it, so it's really not worth my time or money. i'm getting ready to do the bearings in my H6 idler and tensioner. if that goes well maybe i'll try another XT6 pulley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 do you think this should be doable without a press? i mean, i guess i know the answer is "yes", but i wasn't able to do it. I'm sure it could be, but you would have to build appropriate adapters to jack them in and out with all-thread. The key to getting it done without destroying something is for everything to be 100% even and aligned. That is almost impossible without building a jig to hold the parts because as soon as you start wailing on it with a dead-blow you'll mis-align it again. So you would need a method ivolving a jack-screw or as you say using a press. I have access to a 100-ton hydro-press at work so it's often easy for me to say "do it this way" as I forget how hard it was before I had such tools around. But I have done a lot of things with a bit of tubing, some washers and left-handed all-thread. It's amazing what can be done with a simple puller and some ingenuity. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 ...I'm wondering how others get the grease into the bearings?... I saw a Strange Procedure few times at Local Repair Shops: Local Mechanics usually Wash the Ball Bearings Clean (with Gasoline) to remove dirt and old / dry grease, then after that, they put some clean grease to Boil in an old & Clean Paint Can, the Cleaned Bearing is inmersed into the Boiling Grease for some time... They says that Grease will go deep inside the Ball Bearings when is Hot. Then after some time Boilin` they just wait untill it Cools down before installing it Again, usually the Next day. They do that Procedure on Hard to Find Ball Bearings that Seems like they will Work fine if they`re Properly Greased. The First time I Saw that Procedure, I was Child and a Mechanic couldn`t find the Clutch`s Throw Bearing for my Dad`s `69 Mercury. Why not just buy the bearings from a bearing house and press them into the pulley's? ... I Have done that Many Times with Great Results... it is a Good Idea! Kind Regards! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 luckily 20T press at home what is the part # for ea82 bearing? skf only lists the tensioner ITEM : VKM78001 ID : 0.35 OD : 2.36 WIDTH : 1.08 LENGTH : 1.57 WEIGHT : 0.45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 I've repacked them before too, as well as serpentine belt tensioners. I've always used a good dental scribe, the end with a hook or angled point. That way the one tool is all that's needed. The point gets between the rubber seal and the bearing with ease then you rotate the tool so the point is pushing up on the underside of the seal, on the metal. Then it pops right up. The boiling method is great for motorcycle chains too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 12, 2009 Author Share Posted February 12, 2009 I've always used a good dental scribe, the end with a hook or angled point. That way the one tool is all that's needed. The point gets between the rubber seal and the bearing with ease then you rotate the tool so the point is pushing up on the underside of the seal, on the metal. Then it pops right up. !great, thanks Frank. where in the world do you get a dental scribe, i hate to see what those things cost!!?? are you saying you pull the entire seal off? and you have no problems reseating/reinstalling it? i'd be worried about it coming back off. i usually just get a tiny access area going and have a needle fitting for a grease gun to shoot in there. then push the seal back in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4_Welder Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 (edited) great, thanks Frank. where in the world do you get a dental scribe, i hate to see what those things cost!!?? One of the cheapest tools in my collection, and one of the most useful. Here's a 6pc set, under $4: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93514 As far as heating/boiling in grease, I used to do this with my motorcycle chains. I'd boil the chain in 90wt. It stunk, but would last twice as long as just lubing it. Edited February 12, 2009 by 4x4_Welder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 12, 2009 Author Share Posted February 12, 2009 One of the cheapest tools in my collection, and one of the most useful. Here's a 6pc set, under $4:http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93514 awesome, i ordered that. thanks! boiling grease? how does that work? submerge the bearings in there and the grease should work it's way in somehow? even with the seals in place? i won't try that, but curious nonetheless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4_Welder Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 Any petroleum based product will thin with heat, and then be able to penetrate much further into tight spaces. This works great with heavy oils, but you have to be careful with some grease- If you get it too hot, the oils will separate from the soap base, leaving just an oil in the joint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 great, thanks Frank. where in the world do you get a dental scribe, i hate to see what those things cost!!?? are you saying you pull the entire seal off? and you have no problems reseating/reinstalling it? i'd be worried about it coming back off. i usually just get a tiny access area going and have a needle fitting for a grease gun to shoot in there. then push the seal back in place. I've bought most of the ones I've had at flea market and swap meet "tool tents". Cheap and they break if you push them too far, but I once had a really nice surgical stainless steel one, benefit of dating a dental assistant, and it was awesome, the tool..... heavy, strong, sharp, but I broke it. So I felt that if that broke, it's me not the tool that's doing something wrong, and now I buy the cheap stuff. The seal is metal with rubber over it, so it's stiff and pops in and out. As long as the rubber doesn't tear form being old, dry, and cracked. It's best to get it out and wash the bearing to get all the old hard grease out of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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