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Add Weber, delete ECU?


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'86 GL Wagon 4x:

My ECU/computer is for a feedback hitachi, if that makes any difference. Does anyone know if it changes timing, or anything else besides the carb? With the weber I don't notice any changes now when the dash light comes on...it's just annoying. RED LIGHT MEANS SOMETHING WRONG is just stuck in my brain. Will the car even start and run without it?

Thanks,

Eric

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On the ea81 cars it only controls the carburetor feedback system, all components which you probably disabled when removing the hitachi. It has no control over timing, fuel pump power, choke function, heated seats etc. I belive the only actuators it had were the solenoids. It doesnt matter where it has sensors or sensor, you no longer need them. Unpluging it after you have weberized would have no effect other than leaving behind some loose wires under the dash.

I doubt the ea82 system is any different in this reguard.

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On the ea81 cars it only controls the carburetor feedback system, all components which you probably disabled when removing the hitachi. It has no control over timing, fuel pump power, choke function, heated seats etc. I belive the only actuators it had were the solenoids. It doesnt matter where it has sensors or sensor, you no longer need them. Unpluging it after you have weberized would have no effect other than leaving behind some loose wires under the dash.

I doubt the ea82 system is any different in this reguard.

 

Guess it wont hurt just to try it...not like it's that hard to pull out.

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I would like to modify my reply, for some reason I was curious. After doing some snooping I found that there is a "vacuum advance control solenoid". And that Ca models had a dual advance distributor. I dont know the ea82's at all, so it is possible that the distributor advance was controlled in some way. Maybe not by the box under the dash. And it most likely it only turned off the vacuume advance when cold, but this leads me to belive that this system could control more than the ea81 system. You probably yanked this stuff anyways, and it may not even apply to your car. But I was not correct.

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The vacuum advance solenoid was in the vacuum advance line and simply disabled the advance under certain conditions.

If you have an ignitor on the coil, and a vacuum advance pot on the distributor, then it should be fine.

Edited by 4x4_Welder
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On EA82 cars the feedback ECU is much more complex than the EA81 system. Most of it's additional complexity will not be a problem but it does control the fuel pump so you will have to reroute power to the pump through a non-feedback fuel pump control unit. It's not as difficult as it sounds - just pickup an FPCU at the junk yard and splice into the 4 or 5 wires it needs to run. Most if not all of them are accesible near the ECU under the dash.

 

GD

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It would be a chance to install a good air/fuel ratio gauge too, since the O2 sensor will be isolated.

 

The stock O2 sensor is a narrow-band and is entirely worthless as a tuning aid for a Weber. It would have to be replaced with a wideband+controller (about $250 minimum) and then the only thing you really need is the bung to screw the sensor into (which can be added to a non-O2 exhaust for about $2 and an hour of R&R, cut, weld, etc).

 

GD

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Thanks for all the responses. I can notice no effect whatsoever when the dash light comes on, so I'll leave it be for now. There are no good wrecking yards in this area, so I'll have to keep that wiring in mind for next visit. Might it be easier to just disconnect the dash light. If the ecu could be affecting performance in some way though, I'll pull it at some point. Btw, my coil is now an accel superstock.

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If the ecu could be affecting performance in some way though, I'll pull it at some point.

 

With a Weber installed, it cannot affect performance in any way. It will continue to complain through the lamp and it will continue to power the fuel pump if you just leave it be. You can disconnect the lamp ground at the ECU if you want the light to go away.

 

Btw, my coil is now an accel superstock.

 

Accel coils are junk - made in mexico. They have a high likelyhood of failure and can cause premature failure of the ignitor in the distributor as it was not designed to switch the higher current spark they produce. It is also uneccesary as the stock ignition system is fully up to the task required of it unless you slap on a turbo and start boosting past about 5 pounds or so. The stock Hitachi coil is excelent quality and I highly reccomend sourcing a new OEM Hitachi unit if you suspect a problem with the original. Toss the Accel in the trash or at the guy that sold it to you if you prefer.

 

GD

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Accel coils are junk - made in mexico. They have a high likelyhood of failure and can cause premature failure of the ignitor in the distributor as it was not designed to switch the higher current spark they produce. It is also uneccesary as the stock ignition system is fully up to the task required of it unless you slap on a turbo and start boosting past about 5 pounds or so. The stock Hitachi coil is excelent quality and I highly reccomend sourcing a new OEM Hitachi unit if you suspect a problem with the original. Toss the Accel in the trash or at the guy that sold it to you if you prefer.

 

GD

 

But...it's bright yellow and "high performance!" :lol: I only got it because it was recommended here on the board, but I trust ya GD. Will look for OEM soon.

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