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I did not much like the look of the split boot so I went for the conventional type. If it is the outer boot you are replacing, then there is also a version that is not split but will push over the CV joint using a special cone to stretch it. Of course you still have to remove the hub, so given you have to do that it is probably not much more work to remove the axle. That also has the advantage of allowing you to properly clean and check the CV joint which is particularly advisable if it has been torn for a while.

 

One thing I learned is that if you have the inner end pinned to the stub axle it is better to remove the pin before you try to remove the hub from the axle. I did not do that and the stub pulled out. Turned out to not be a major problem, but extra work and risk of contamination in the differential.

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I did not much like the look of the split boot so I went for the conventional type. If it is the outer boot you are replacing, then there is also a version that is not split but will push over the CV joint using a special cone to stretch it. Of course you still have to remove the hub, so given you have to do that it is probably not much more work to remove the axle. That also has the advantage of allowing you to properly clean and check the CV joint which is particularly advisable if it has been torn for a while.

 

One thing I learned is that if you have the inner end pinned to the stub axle it is better to remove the pin before you try to remove the hub from the axle. I did not do that and the stub pulled out. Turned out to not be a major problem, but extra work and risk of contamination in the differential.

 

 

in replacing the axle i follow this rule: first step-roll pin out; last step-roll pin in. Because stretching or ripping the boot on new axle is not an option-is it?

 

definitely buy boot kits to refurbish your OE axles if you catch the rips early.

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I stopped putting boots on a few years ago. Just isn't

worth the time and effort when you compare the cost

of a re-man axle. Most re-man axles are like $75 and

are just so much easier to install.

 

The only time I would consider a reboot would be a tear

due to an object on a axle with just a few thousand

miles on it.

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I stopped putting boots on a few years ago. Just isn't

worth the time and effort when you compare the cost

of a re-man axle. Most re-man axles are like $75 and

are just so much easier to install.

 

The only time I would consider a reboot would be a tear

due to an object on a axle with just a few thousand

miles on it.

 

I preffer to reboot my own axles for wheelin.

 

The aftermarket axles are often junk, rebuild, or wholy new made in china parts.

 

I recently replaced one that was less than a year old. Outer joint had grenaded.

 

OEM axles are the best option, reboot them as soon as you notice a tear.

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