kirbykirb Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 after 1400$, and 3 bad transmissions my subaru has driven over 4,000 miles on its new one since Jan1st and ! So, my only problems with the car now are, oil leak at rear main oil seals, speed sensor (The speedometer flucates going up and down till I hit 20mph, and then from there it misreads the speed 5mph lower then what it is (if it says 55, it's going 50..etc). Temp sensor, the instrument cluster's temp guage goes up and down fluctuating...saying it's on the RED randomly..like for example if its in the red at one red light..the next one it'd be in the middle..etc the problem could also be a frozen thermostat or waterpump..but I shall replace the temp sensors first because even if their not the issue..their still OEM from 95' so blah." and as theres 2 temp sensors to the car, one which reports to the guage, and one to the ECU..I shall replace both to make sure its perfect! After that, I shall tackle timing belt, waterpump, thermostat, brakes (rotors + pads), and possibly new tires unless I can score new wheels with nice tire thread on them! What do you guys think? Does this all make sense to ya? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crash321 Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 What model, year, mileage? Over heat situation sounds troubling, Guage sensor usually doesn't send poor info to dash gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbykirb Posted February 17, 2009 Author Share Posted February 17, 2009 What model, year, mileage? Over heat situation sounds troubling, Guage sensor usually doesn't send poor info to dash gauge. 96' subaru legacy Gt, the sedan with the 2.5l engine. it has had headgasket work done to it, or so i *believe* mileage = 124k. the temp light just bounces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crash321 Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 (edited) Air pockets then if the gaskets were just done. Jack up the front of the car and fill the top hose with coolant and remove the plug on the radiator opposite the cap and give that baby a good burb then. That maybe your issue. Do that before you start condemning parts:) Are you sure the headgaskets were done? Temp gage going red is not good, anyway, burb it first and go from there. Edited February 17, 2009 by crash321 .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbykirb Posted February 17, 2009 Author Share Posted February 17, 2009 Air pockets then if the gaskets were just done. Jack up the front of the car and fill the top hose with coolant and remove the plug on the radiator opposite the cap and give that baby a good burb then. That maybe your issue. Do that before you start condemning parts:) Are you sure the headgaskets were done? Temp gage going red is not good, anyway, burb it first and go from there. Burbed it recently, did had minor bubbles in the coolant heh. 100% gone now, but still the needle rises up and down. headgaskets were done presumbley 1-2yrs ago. :S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 You may want to get a block check done to see if any exhaust gases are getting into the coolant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abog Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Your temp problem has all the signs of head gaskets, definitely as suggested have a block test done. You can get the exhaust gas test kit from Napa, and it is not very expensive. You should have done the rear main seal when the trans was out of the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 There could be a short on the wire for the dash gauge. like if it has rubbed insulation very thin, it could be randomly grounding out which will peg the gauge. It is unlikely that a headgasket would cause such a sudden rise and fall in temps. If ti was actaully that hot, it would take a while to cool back down, and wouldn't do so if the HG was bad and the block was full of gasses. Check that wire for a short to ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crash321 Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 There could be a short on the wire for the dash gauge. like if it has rubbed insulation very thin, it could be randomly grounding out which will peg the gauge. It is unlikely that a headgasket would cause such a sudden rise and fall in temps. If ti was actaully that hot, it would take a while to cool back down, and wouldn't do so if the HG was bad and the block was full of gasses. Check that wire for a short to ground. +1 then, have someone in the car to watch the guage and move the wiring around. I guess since the car is throughly burbed and running good, you are probably just dealing with an electrical issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Simple stuff first. replace your radiator cap. Its old enough that you wont be throwing money away. Spedo: you have two speed sensors if its an auto. Unbnplug one, go for a drive, then unplug the other and go for a drive, see what happens (plug the first one back in). If its a manual yes speed sensor. the 5mph off you can't do anythig about, its programmed in. We just had an extensive chat about this on the outback baord, Better slower then faster. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abog Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Temperature readings can fluctuate very rapidly when air pockets pass by the thermosensor, the sensors will not read correctly and can be very erratic when surrounded by air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Temperature readings can fluctuate very rapidly when air pockets pass by the thermosensor, the sensors will not read correctly and can be very erratic when surrounded by air. Yeah, but he would also be getting massive coolant loss, poor running, smoke and steam out of the hood. He hasn't mentioned that, just that hte gauge jumps up , then back down quickly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbykirb Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 Yeah, but he would also be getting massive coolant loss, poor running, smoke and steam out of the hood. He hasn't mentioned that, just that hte gauge jumps up , then back down quickly Mm, I did have the problem of air in my coolant tank (e.g. I open the cap I see pretty little bubbles forming at the bottom of the tube) I checked last night about the issue, and it seems they have returned. a bit more agressivley now as well. :S instead of it jus being a lil bubble..its BABOOM in bubble world in the coolant tank (lots of misc bubbles forming). I'm going to once again drive it on a ramp and try to burb it, seeing if it'd help my cause.. otherwise I'd prolly have to get at the very minunium a coolant flush, to see if theres a leak along the system where air could be getting in, or at the very worst a headgasket leak. my subie and me = <3 relleh relleh <3 But, anyway I am just not sure to trust now...my temp sensors may have been right all along and it could've just had this there since the beginning. I just have a sigh odd feeling that it'd be a headgasket leak. Blah. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbykirb Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 Simple stuff first. replace your radiator cap. Its old enough that you wont be throwing money away. Spedo: you have two speed sensors if its an auto. Unbnplug one, go for a drive, then unplug the other and go for a drive, see what happens (plug the first one back in). If its a manual yes speed sensor. the 5mph off you can't do anythig about, its programmed in. We just had an extensive chat about this on the outback baord, Better slower then faster. nipper Will order a new cap right now!! As for the speed sensors, I can't find in the FSM where they are (except the main one in the tranny) but not the other one..I have a 4EAT tranny. Would you happen to have any idea where they would be located at? Or a link to a PDF or something detailing this!? As for the block test, I'll step by a NAPA and see what I can find out. Thanks for that suggestion, I guess this test will ultimatley tell if I have a leaking headgasket to a headgaset issue >_<. rear oil seals are going to be done after I have a final answer to this ongoing problem. hehe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Bubbles are never ever ever a good sign. Rev the engine a little bit, if you get more bubbles as opposed to faster moving bubles, we have an answer... and its not pretty. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crash321 Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Will order a new cap right now!! As for the speed sensors, I can't find in the FSM where they are (except the main one in the tranny) but not the other one..I have a 4EAT tranny. Would you happen to have any idea where they would be located at? Or a link to a PDF or something detailing this!? You will have one towards the front of the tranny on the pass side. Look straight down from the firewall, easy find. The other one I believe is located in the tailshaft section of the tranny. It would be the one to detect wheelspin and engage the rear wheels. Sorry to hear about the bubbles, good luck.:-\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbykirb Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 WTH, I Just came back form class and the bubbles are gone, I had the coolant expansion tank open, and hit the throttle and no more air bubble and the temp guage played nicly this time. Wow, my car = -,- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crash321 Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 WTH, I Just came back form class and the bubbles are gone, I had the coolant expansion tank open, and hit the throttle and no more air bubble and the temp guage played nicly this time. Wow, my car = -,- Ghosts mmmmphmmm yep ghosts:eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Mr Bubble is EVIL! lets hope this has cleared up nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crash321 Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Mr Bubble is EVIL! Mr Bubble freaken hilarious:lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbykirb Posted February 19, 2009 Author Share Posted February 19, 2009 Mr Bubble is EVIL! lets hope this has cleared up nipper Hopefully, who knows though..with my subie bleh. Heres some shots of it though :3 thought I'd share the pain that has been making me post on these boards haha. Now I just gotta figure out about this small oil leak, (always keep some oil in my trunk now!) and hopefully nothing else should happen..hmm Though, I did have for a while kinda white smoke come out of the engine bay (I don't see it as often, and not really in a while now) hahah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbykirb Posted February 28, 2009 Author Share Posted February 28, 2009 Internal Head Gasket leaked; 95% confirmed. Ughh I'm not sure what to do now...either fix it and throw on new cooling system components (thermostat, waterpump, radiator), new speed sensor, new tires, and other misc stuff it'd come out to nearly 2500-3000$ while the cars only worth that barley. I think I'm going to sell it..headgasket is failing and heads are getting warped.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 that's a really good looking car, auto or manual. i'd put in a 2.2L, 95 - 96, and be done with it. with the replacement engine you'll get different temp sensors and water pump. if the new engine is oily, reseal. throw on a new belt and go. if yours is a manual trans, you'll never feel the difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 Internal Head Gasket leaked; 95% confirmed. Ughh I'm not sure what to do now...either fix it and throw on new cooling system components (thermostat, waterpump, radiator), new speed sensor, new tires, and other misc stuff........headgasket is failing and heads are getting warped Dude, you are ALL worked up over too much S**T. Have the headgaskets done with a Genuine subaru gasket. have the heads milled, but don't let them sell you on a full rebuild, just clean 'em and shave em. Replace you're timing belt, waterpump and all the oil seals. Thermostat maybe on principal, but only if you are gonna spring for a Genuine Subaru, otherwise you're better leaving the OE one in there. If you're radiator is leaking replace it, but otherwise leave it. the HG is causeing the overheat, not the cooling system. got it? To save a little money, buy an Ebay timing belt kit, and headgasket kit. But don't use the actual headgasket from the ebay kit, get those genuine. The kit will save you money on all the other seals, espsecially the 4 Cam Seals and the valve cover rubber grommets. it'd come out to nearly 2500-3000$ while the cars only worth that barley. I think I'm going to sell it If that's what it's *BARELY* worth, then buying a better car would cost more, right? And what's it gonna be worth to sell with a blown headgasket? So you will sell it for *less* than it's worth, then buy something MORE expensive? Doesn't make sense, especially when you add in the work and hassle of selling a car, and finding and registering/inspecting a new one. See what I'm saying? NO CAR, that get's driven and used daily,...ever is an investment. It costs money. You can't expect to not spend money on you're car if you want to drive. Buy newer car= lot's of money for payments and insurance, very little on repairs Buy older = little or no payments, lower insurance, but.....more on repairs. Bottom line just bite the bullet and fix what's actually wrong with the car. It is the simplest and most economical solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crash321 Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 +1 gloyale , I just spent 2 large on mine, yea its an older car but I would rather put a gajilian miles on something that is worth 3500 than on one that costs 25,000. Car now runs great again........(damn underhood mice) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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