J A Blazer Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 (edited) 2000 4 cyl OBW, 120K. About 18 months ago my A/C stopped working. My independent mechanic topped up the refrigerant and it worked fine until just recently. Took it back to him, and he says now there is a leak in the discharge line (part # 11 in the schematic, the one that runs between the condensor and the compressor) where it connects to the compressor. Is this likely just a bad o-ring, or does the line itself need replaced? Either way, does this repair require a new receiver/dryer at the same time? TIA. Edited February 19, 2009 by J A Blazer correct the part description Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 Florescent dye can be added to your A/C system by your mechanic to detect exactly where the leak is located. A black light is then used to find the leak by seeing where the dye is seeping out. Yes, it could be just a bad "O" ring, or the line could be bad. Finding exactly where the leak is located can tell your mechanic what needs to be replace. IMO, I don't think that a new receiver/dryer is needed. That gets replaced when the compressor goes bad, sending metallic grit through the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 What he said, and most likely just an O ring. The hoses and dryers rarely if never leak. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 i'd hate to see how many A/C bills for hundreds/thousands of dollars really just a 50 cent o-ring or schrader valve. i've fixed a number of A/C systems just by replacing the orings, schrader valves, and recharging it. i've even done the ghetto charge of just blowing refrigerant in without pulling a vacuum. my buddy still drives that car and it's been quite a few years...4 at least. sounds to me like yours is an oring issue. replace the oring and properly tighten the bolt. i would replace all of the easy ones while the system is open. there's a few that can be replaced in a matter of minutes, it'll all be under an hour so essentially it shouldn't cost you anything else except the 50 cent part. replacing one oring takes 4 minutes - replacing 4 takes 15...either way you're getting billed an hour probably. have them replace all the easily accessible ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abog Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 Sounds to me like your mechanic did not check for leaks the first time, just threw in some refrigerant and sent you on your way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J A Blazer Posted February 20, 2009 Author Share Posted February 20, 2009 Abog: Actually, I'm fairly certain that he did put in dye and I brought the car back to him several weeks later, but the black-light did not reveal any leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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