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Main gasket sealer?


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yes, avoid that stuff. there's no need to look for mystical magical hogwartz cure for something there's already a cure for!!!!:lol: leaking engines need the leaks repaired.

 

new seals/gaskets will do it for you unless you have a very rare and odd condition.

 

first thing you can do is replace the PCV valve, it'll reduce the crankcase pressure and may slow the bleeding. they're $7 from subaru (you should get a Subaru one for this part) and easy to replace. takes one wrench and 4 minutes.

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WOW holy siezed engine batman.

 

An entire qt? Somehow i dont think that has any real lubricating properties. ALl that does is swell the material the seal is made out of. It is almost impossible to seal a rotating seal once it starts to leak with a simple additive.

 

nipper

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sounds like you have nothing to worry about. 1/2 quart in 2,500 miles, that's almost normal. there's new subaru's that do that.

 

  Caramanos2000 said:
Engine has to be pulled whenever I do get at it ehh.
engine doesn't have to be pulled for seals. valve cover gaskets and grommets often leak. easily fixed.

 

the rest will likely be taken care of at the next timing belt change. reseal the oil pump and replace the cam and crank seals and cam orings. all of that resides behind the timing belt, easy. engine doesnt' have to come out.

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I changed my valve cover gaskets and grommets Monday on my 91 Loyale. Go with the Felpro, it was $14 and change at NAPA. Wasn't too hard, the bolt on the back DS valve cover was the hardest to get to. Bought a ratcheting 10mm wrench but probably could have done w/o it. The 18 year old gaskets I took out of there sure were brittle, no wonder it was staining the driveway!

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Most of the " miracle " cure stop leak products have a large amount of ether in them. The ether causes the rubber in seals to swell. This swelling will usually reduce leaks, but only for a short time. And when the seals begin to leak again it will be much worse than when you started.

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