Bucky92 Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 Steve ( hatchsub) stopped over yesterday with the timing light so we ( njdrsubaru and me) could harass him and Neo could do some welding on his exhaust.. He got my coupe in time but it appears now that the choke on my weber is DOA. Appears to only start with a shot of starting fluid and dont touch anything for about 5 minutes. Wierd...you could pump the gas pedal all day and it wont catch... a shot of starter fluid and vroom! go figure...have this real love/ hate thing going with that coupe. Anyway..cau you just swap out the choke on these? It also now has a bad hesitation when first giving it gas. Could something have gotten clogged up while it was sitting? Took it for a coupe spins around the block..new clutch is grabby ( soooo easy to smoke the tires....thanks bratrus!) but still doesnt catch till all the way out.... Motor is strong ( thanks subaru360!!) that little thing was ripping!!! Tires need air bad and Neo said my ball joints are toasted..its scary to drive actually. Motor runs at a solid 169.4 degrees ( love that temp gauge set up backwoodsboy installed) Still needs dash gauges. I want a digi cluster still..cause I am going to be too picky about the analog swap... I want it to be working 100% everything. Also needs new exhaust. But the coupe finally did see the light of day Sat and got to stretch his legs a wee bit. Both Neo and Steve also took him for a run.... they can varify. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 You are sure the choke is not closing? Sounds to me like it might be an accelerator pump. You might try pushin' on the accel. pump lever a few times and make sure you have fuel squirting as it should. Is it electric choke? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted February 23, 2009 Author Share Posted February 23, 2009 yup..choke is stuck wide open...and yes its an electric choke...we did move the flaps manually also. This is a freshly rebuilt Weber..not even a year old...and has next to no useable..just a couple months when I loaned it to someone till thiers was done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 I don't know about the Webers, but when you take out the choke mechanism for a rebuild on the Hitachis it's really easy for the fast idle cam inside the choke housing to rotate past the choke lever. When it does the symptoms are just like what you are experiencing. I am talking about the cam and lever inside the electric choke housing. The fast idle cam has a tiny spring on it and usually the adjustment pawl on the fast idle cam hits the choke lever preventing it (cam) from rotating past it (lever), but when the choke mechanism is removed it's all loose and the little spring flips the fast idle cam to the other side of the choke lever. It's very subtle. I have to assume that the Weber has a similar electric choke set-up. If you have a diagram of what it is supposed to look like, it's easy to check and fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 Sure,the choke housings are swapable.They are quite robust though. Sounds like it just needs an adjustment. Loosen the 3 screws and rotate the choke housing until the choke is lightly closed w/a cold engine. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 Yes, Choke can be Swapped Easily, but First I Suggest you to do a Simple Test to Verify if it is the Choke itself or the Wirings: First Check if the Choke Mechanism is Moving Freely, then Unplug the Stock Wire and use a Direct Wire from the Battery to the Choke, Check if it Moves... if So, Maybe the Choke isn`t Receiving Enough Power to Move. Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 Sounds exactly like an accelerator pump problem. Especially the 'bad hesistation when first giving it gas' you described. Since carbs need airflow to 'suck' fuel into the engine, and air takes a while (relatively) to get moving, the accel pump sends a squirt of gas in immediately to give the engine something until the venturi's catch up. Look down the throat and move the throttle. You MUST see a squirt of gas. If you don't, the accelerator pump isn't working. I don't know those carbs well enough to give you an idea where to look though. Also, any carb will need a pump or two to get started. This is the accel pump shooting gas into the engine. With it not working, you'll need something else to fire the engine with, like you've discovered. -Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 Connie two times ago we took the choke housing off because your choke was not opening. It might need to be readjusted. There is a spring in there and little "rod" that fits into the coiled end of the spring. It might have fallen out. Not too terrible to fix but it will take some fiddling to get it to operate correctly (ie start well and also open up when its warm) As for taking it for a spin..yup it runs good...1st..oh yea 2nd..sweet..3rd....3RD...3RRRRRDDD...ah there ya go. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 Were you trying to start it in the cold, with old summer gas? Summer gas has fewer light, volatile components, and if it is old, they will have all evaporated, making it hard to start the car. Starter fluid acts as the light component, to get the car started in the cold. Try new gas, and see if that helps. Rob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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