EA82T Cooling System Fun

[derburger]

On friday I'm going to get the XT's cooling system in order. Previously I had a no start condition with this car which eventually was fixed with a junkyard fuel pump to limp home. I have a new gas tank to replace the rusted out original one, which I'll also replace this weekend. The gas tank nuts & clamps have been soaking in PB blaster for 2 weeks so they shouldn't be awful. If I successfully replace the gas tank and do cooling system work the subaru gets daily driver duty again.

 

After driving the XT home I quickly discovered a coolant leak from around the water pump/coolant pipe area under the alternator. Very little coolant was lost and the coolant gauge never went above normal levels.

 

I'm going to replace the water pump (the car came with a spare new Japan pump) the thermostat(subaru), the big water pipe o-ring, and hoses such as the turbo coolant hose. To get all the coolant out, there are two block plugs on the drivers and passenger's side, correct? I'll at least flush the heater core out.

 

As for coolant, 50/50 green antifreeze and distilled water is what I'll use. I have a half gallon of Subaru coolant left from other Subarus in the family I work on, from what I read that coolant isn't much different from the regular green glycol antifreeze, so the XT gets the regular coolant.

 

Any tips or tricks to replacing the water pump and the thermostat? The DIY guides for these on this board are great. I know I'll struggle with the plastic timing belt covers, it took me more than an hour just to put the driver's side outer panel back on. This time I'll use ratcheting wrenches. I'll use loctite and a torque wrench wherever applicable.

 

Thanks for everyone's previous help. After this is done I should be set for a while.

[TomRhere]

When installing the intake pipe to the waterpump, coat the o-ring and the bore of the housing with pure anti-freeze. It'll act as a lubricant and help to keep the o-ring in place.

[Frank B]

Replace the radiator while your at it. You will find that there are no 2 row radiators available anymore, unless you find a NOS one. The 2 row was replaced with an all metal brass/copper one. And the standard rad is aluminum with plastic tanks. Realisticlly, if you install an intercooler or oil cooler, you should be able to get away with the aluminum rad.

 

Take a good look at the timing belts while your in there, cam seals, and oil pump seals.

And while your at it, remove the CTS, coolant temp sensor, and the engine temp switch9sensor for the dash guage) and clean all the corrosion from the threads in the manifold, threads on the sensor itself, and from the electrical connectors.

[Quidam]

 

To get all the coolant out, there are two block plugs on the drivers and passenger's side, correct? I'll at least flush the heater core out.

 

Any tips or tricks to replacing the water pump and the thermostat?

 

I know I'll struggle with the plastic timing belt covers, it took me more than an hour just to put the driver's side outer panel back on. This time I'll use ratcheting wrenches.

 

Thanks for everyone's previous help. After this is done I should be set for a while.

 

The two plugs with aluminum reusable washers are in the heads. 14 mm, remove them.

 

I flush the heater core with a garden hose, then blow it out with compressed air to purge the water. I garden hose the block through every open passage I can too.

 

With the hoses all back on and head plugs in, radiator in, etc, I pour the new coolant and fill the block through the thermostat housing in the manifold, then put the new stat in. I also gasket cement the thermostat gasket to the stat cover. It stays on and if you have to remove it again at some point, it stays on that cover and is reused.

 

Timing covers...when the bolts just turn and turn with nothing coming off, I stick a thick gasket scraper between the two pieces and pop them off. I then leave them off. I have a whole pile of them:).

 

hth,

 

Doug

[derburger]

Replace the radiator while your at it. You will find that there are no 2 row radiators available anymore, unless you find a NOS one. The 2 row was replaced with an all metal brass/copper one. And the standard rad is aluminum with plastic tanks. Realisticlly, if you install an intercooler or oil cooler, you should be able to get away with the aluminum rad.

 

I should replace the radiator as well. There's a NOS radiator for 1.8 turbo 5-speed XT's on eBay. I assume that would be the factory 2 row aluminum radiator. Would that be a better one to buy over the other radiators at rockauto? The aluminum and plastic tank radiator MB used on 80's diesels get so bad that the neck eventually snaps off when people take off the cap.

[Quidam]

There are two, brass-copper two row radiators for your car on ebay. One new, about 250.00. One used, refurbished in vgc it says for about a hundred bucks delivered.

 

hth

 

Doug

[derburger]

Here are radiator options:

NOS Oem radiator, $49 2 row aluminum/plastic

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUBARU-XT-COUPE-1985-TO-1991-NEW-RADIATOR-PART-2233_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33602QQihZ007QQitemZ170264489486QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

Koyo radiator aluminum/plastic $32 (!)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/85-88-Subaru-XT-Koyo-Radiator_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247QQcategoryZ33602QQihZ019QQitemZ290298267052QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

 

Refurbished copper/brass 2 row radiator $86

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RADIATOR-1099-85-91-SUBARU-XT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33602QQihZ012QQitemZ220170951818QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

Which of these would be the best one to get? I don't want to work again on the PITA cooling system or have the car overheat.

[Turbone]

I would get the first one.

[Quidam]

ebay KOYO 45181 GA631 XT- 89-91 Loyale Turbo. It appears to me to be copper/brass...the description doesn't say. Same store as the other KOYO radiator you have listed. May be twin core? Don't know.

 

Shipped to me, $192.50.

 

Do you have an automatic trans and AC?

 

BTW, I've found a quarter inch height difference listed twice between the Loyale style cars and XT. What gives?

 

Doug

[derburger]

Mine's an 86 XT with a manual trans and A/C.

 

This is the Koyo GA631 radiator, for 89-91 XT's and 1990-1994 Loyales.

 

Maybe the $31 koyo radiator is similar to this one? For $20 more I would probably get the 2 row OEM subaru radiator. But if the koyo is brass/copper I would get it instead.

[Quidam]

I'm not sure that radiator you're looking at is NOS OEM Subaru. I doubt it. It's probably plastic tank aluminum core.

 

You have no transmission heat load on the radiator. Still with a turbo, I'd want a double core. Both my Turbo cars have copper/brass dual core. That's the way I bought them.

 

Weather or not you would "need" one, I don't know.

 

Doug

[Frank B]

According to the pic in the auction, that first one is a one row. The second, it doesn't say so who knows. The referbished one, well you have a used one now. You'll be real lucky to get a true two row for under $200. From what I learned while shopping for one for my Loyale is that there are no new two rows being made. So if you get one it will be NOS, new old stock, that's been on a shelf for a while, which is still new. The two row aluminum was replaced with the copper core one row with brass tanks, said to transfer heat better so it replaced the two row aluminum, but you don't get the extra capacity. I ordered 4 and returned three before I settled for an aluminum one row from Autozone.

Here's the story, all three pages.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90764&highlight=radiator

 

A one row aluminum rad will be just fine, even with a turbo I suspect, my loyales temp guage doesn't move at all once it gets to operating temp.

[john in KY]

I may have a new 2-row XT radiator. Bought it awhile back because I was told it was for the XT6. Once I opened the box and measured the inlet and outlet, I knew it was for the XT. Never fooled with it after that. Pm me if you want a photo/price.

 

John

[Quidam]

Kaiser. ebay. I've considered buying this one.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=8070941460

[derburger]

Cooling system fun update:

 

I have the radiator drained, belts and covers removed. What I have left to do is remove the A/C compressor on the bracket so I can reach the top of the water pump to replace the 90 degree hose and O-ring when I take it out. The O-ring on the water pipe had gone bad, that's the leak.

 

I found the passenger's side coolant block plug, a 14mm recessed hex plug. With a hex socket on a breaker bar it wouldn't budge. It's soaking in PB blaster overnight and I'll try again with the breaker bar tomorrow. Is the driver's side coolant block plug a normal 14mm bolt and not a huge recessed plug? What I guess is the plug was near the motor mount. What should I do to get more coolant out if I can't get these plugs broken loose?

 

I'll replace the radiator before the summer. It has many bent fins like someone beat it with a wrench. I imagine that happened when the engine was replaced.

 

So I have to take out the block plugs, flush out the cooling system with a garden hose, replace water pump, hoses and o-ring, replace thermostat, refill & burp cooling system. Any other pratfalls with these jobs?

 

After all that is done I have to drain and replace the gas tank & fuel pump due to rust inside the tank I'll open the tank later with a cut off wheel and see if I really needed to.

[TomRhere]

The plug you're trying to remove on the PS is the wrong one.

 

You want the 14mm hex head plug under the head, same spot on the head as the DS, but on the front. I believe your turbo coolant line is in that drain hole now. Non-turbo engine, it would just be a plug there.

 

 

edit;

 

ps. A Gates 28466 hose will work for the 90* one off the waterpump to heater line. You just need to trim it to fit.

Edited February 28, 2009 by TomRhere
added info

[derburger]

Almost done with coolant stuff, I have the thermostat to replace, then fill the block through the thermostat hole, put on the thermostat housing, fill radiator and overflow bottle, run the car on an incline with the heater on to get rid of air pockets. Should I do this with the radiator cap off or on?

 

I flushed the heater core and radiator, replaced the water pump, 90 degree hose (the gates worked fine), replaced o-ring on water pipe which was bulged and leaking. The passenger side coolant block drain was the turbo bolt hose too... I didn't attempt find the drivers side. I needed to use the breaker bar frequently, but thankfully no broken bolts or stripped threads.

 

The Subaru thermostat I bought looks 100x better built than the McParts generic thermostat I pulled out of the car. I should have heat at highway speeds now.

 

Then tomorrow I have to replace the gas tank. The bolts holding it on shouldn't be too bad to remove, and if the hose clamps give trouble I'll just cut the hoses to get the tank out and put in new ones.

[TomRhere]

I leave the cap off on the intial fill and run of engine. Just keep topping it off as the engine warms up.

 

I've dropped the tanks out of 4 different Ru's and only had one bolt give me grief, and that was due to the weldnut breaking loose. The hose clamps can be a pain though. Getting the hose for the fill-tube off has been fun on a couple.

 

Central Illinois huh, anywhere near Kankakee? I bought my '82 BRAT just south of there back in '02.

[Quidam]

FYI for peeps who don't know. The botttom rad is for EA-82 GL series. The top one is for Loyale. Different bottom hose.

 

I've looked at a lot of radiators on-line lately. Talk about choices:) Silla makes a two row aluminum for less than two hundred.

 

Some tanks plastic with aluminum core. Some plastic with copper/brass core.

 

Pay your money and take your choice.

 

hth,

 

Doug

 

P.S. I've bought OEM Subaru hoses, they're made out of EPDM. I've bought Gates hoses, they are not. I've bought Dayco hoses, and they are. I'll use up what I have and either buy OEM or Dayco for my cars. Having all in my hands at the same time, I don't want any more Gates. YMMV

 

Edited March 1, 2009 by Quidam
add text

[Quidam]

Here are radiator options:

NOS Oem radiator, $49 2 row aluminum/plastic

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUBARU-XT-COUPE-1985-TO-1991-NEW-RADIATOR-PART-2233_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33602QQihZ007QQitemZ170264489486QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

Koyo radiator aluminum/plastic $32 (!)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/85-88-Subaru-XT-Koyo-Radiator_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247QQcategoryZ33602QQihZ019QQitemZ290298267052QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

 

Refurbished copper/brass 2 row radiator $86

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RADIATOR-1099-85-91-SUBARU-XT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33602QQihZ012QQitemZ220170951818QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

Which of these would be the best one to get? I don't want to work again on the PITA cooling system or have the car overheat.

 

The first rad is plastic tank, copper/brass core, one row.

 

The $32.00 plus ship Koyo probably is plastic tank, aluminum core. Still, I can combine shipping for other parts, and get it at Rock Auto about five bucks cheaper than that, delivered.

 

The third, they want little more than a hundred, delivered. Or make offer. Probably make someone a good rad at a good price point.

 

hth,

 

Doug

[Gloyale]

FYI for peeps who don't know. The botttom rad is for EA-82 GL series. The top one is for Loyale. Different bottom hose.

 

 

Swap the hose and either will work fine

[derburger]

Got the gas tank removed & replaced without too much hassle. The bolts were no trouble, the rusty hose clamps took up the most time. Since my XT is 4wd I had to remove the "moustache bar", two 17mm nuts on either side, to get the tank out. I didn't have trouble with the gas filler hose, I held the clamp still with pliers while loosening it with a 10mm socket 1/4 ratchet. Dull vice grips helped taking off hoses after the clamps were loosened. The rustiest gas ever came out when I put the tank on it's side to drain the rest of it into a bucket!

 

Now I have squeeky drive belts when the engine is cold. I did spill some antifreeze on them and cleaned them off. Is there a rule of thumb for belt tension? I think they're too loose or tight. Very little powersteering assistance at idle when cold and squealing. I left the timing belt covers off; the brass fittings fell out with the screws. Does that harm anything?

 

When moving there isn't much heat coming from the vents. Better than it was before the flush & thermostat, I believe that could be loose insulation in the heater box. I'll save that for a later project. The good thing is that I took care of the car's major issues and it's daily drivable again.

Edited March 2, 2009 by derburger

[Quidam]

Hi,

 

Good to hear it's comming along. Your question back a ways: fill the rad on an incline with the cap off to purge air. I let it off the ramps then put the cap on. Hope you get the heater sorted out.

 

The belts...probably too loose. If they squeek with proper tension, they're too old.

 

hth,

 

Doug