daniw1 Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 My son recently purchased a 1996 outback about 4 months ago. about 2 months later the head gasket failed and the car had to be towed home. I then towed it to my mechanic who installed a new head gasket thermostat and belts.. everything went fine for a month then he was driving and the temp gauge went to hot he pulled over to the side of the road and called me. I went to look and the antifreeze level was low we filled it and started to drive home. After about 2 miles the temp went back up to hot, we parked it and had it towed home.the next day I filled the antifreeze up and noticed he had no heat. after talking to mechanics they said it may be an air bubble we ran the car without the radiator cap on and kept filling when the level dropped then he had heat. I thought everything was good I took the car to work and back roughly 14 miles and the temp went to hot again but this time it went back down. I called my mechanic and he looked at it again this time the water pump was replaced and the thermostat checked.the next day before I picked up the car he called and said it may be something else. when I talked to him he said the car kept overpressurizing and that it may be the head. He is a very good mechanic but this one has him stumped he didnt charge for the waterpump and labor saying if he cant fix it he wont charge. the Problem is my son is now broke and with us footing the bill for college next year we cant afford a new head. I drove the car home from the garage and it never went to hot approximately 9 miles. If he keeps his eye on the fluids everyday can he drive back and forth to school approximately 4 miles round trip untill he can earn enough money to fix it. He loves the car and cannot afford a new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 Did you use OEM Subaru parts? When doing the head gaskets and thermostat, you really need to use Subaru parts not aftermarket. Sounds like it could be the head gaskets again. The heads are usually fine unless the motor is run really hot for any amount of time. But it sounds like you shut it down as soon as it got hot. Maybe start small. try replacing the thermostat again, and use a Subaru one if you didn't before, and also try replacing the radiator cap. Also is this car an auto or a 5 spd? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniw1 Posted March 1, 2009 Author Share Posted March 1, 2009 its an automatic like i said there is no leaks at this time. I will try a new cap. and the gaskets were OEM he just cant afford to put alot of money in the car. we want to know if its drivable for short runs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 its an automatic like i said there is no leaks at this time. I will try a new cap. and the gaskets were OEM he just cant afford to put alot of money in the car. we want to know if its drivable for short runs. Yeah so it's the 2.5 motor. You wouldn't see any leaks if the headgaskets were failing again. They leak internally on the phase 1 2.5's. If you do drive it, do not let it get hot! If you do you will be looking at a new motor....PERIOD! Do you notice any discoloration of the oil or the coolant, also if you pop the overflow open while it's running, do you see any bubbles? These are signs of the bad head gaskets. There is also a complicated torque sequence for those motors. Is the mechanic sure he followed it correctly? Do you mind me asking where you got the job done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniw1 Posted March 1, 2009 Author Share Posted March 1, 2009 I forgot to mention its a 2.2l theres no discoloration a no bubbles. theres no smell of antifreeze. The mechanic is a friend who I have dealt with for 20 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 I forgot to mention its a 2.2l theres no discoloration a no bubbles. theres no smell of antifreeze. The mechanic is a friend who I have dealt with for 20 years. So the motor has been replaced before? If not than a 96 Outback auto is a 2.5 DOHC. I would try changing the radiator cap, and if that doesn't work, than try the thermostat. Does the motor have 2 cams on each side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniw1 Posted March 1, 2009 Author Share Posted March 1, 2009 as far as I know the car has the original motor its a 1996 subaru legacy outback. I dont know alot about cars so im not sure about the cams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 as far as I know the car has the original motor its a 1996 subaru legacy outback. I dont know alot about cars so im not sure about the cams. If you take a look at the timing cover, it will be really large top to bottom,with 2 circular sections on each side. As far as I know, the DOHC 2.5 was the only motor to come in that car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 This is what the timing covers look like on a DOHC 2.5 which is what should be in your car http://ccrengines.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/.pond/DSC00377.JPG.w300h225.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniw1 Posted March 1, 2009 Author Share Posted March 1, 2009 the paper work that came with the car had the original sales receipts it has a 2.2l listed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 the paper work that came with the car had the original sales receipts it has a 2.2l listed. hmmm, that's weird. So either I'm wrong or it's listed wrong(which I have seen a lot) Take a look at the picture I linked to. unless your car is a 95? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniw1 Posted March 1, 2009 Author Share Posted March 1, 2009 thats what it looks like i looked for a plate that said the engine size but was unable to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 off to the passenger side a little and few inches from the front there will be a stamp on the block. It should say EJ25. If that's what the timing cover looks like, it is a 2.5. The 2.2's were SOHC and looked like this The 2.5's are notorious for eating head gaskets but since they were recently changed they should not have gone bad so soon. But if they were not installed properly with the right torque sequence etc, then they will most definitely start to leak again. But like I said, I would start small and cheap, and if that doesn;t work than you may be out of luck. But many people have swapped in the 2.2l's and they are a much better motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniw1 Posted March 1, 2009 Author Share Posted March 1, 2009 your right I found the stamp so all the paperwork is wrong I will try a new cap but let me ask you if it was you would you drive it if the temp gauge didnt go to hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 I currently have a newer 2.5 that has leaking head gaskets and yes I still drive it daily. But check your coolant level A LOT and if the gauge starts to creep up pull over and let it cool off before driving it any further!! I see you're in Maine, so am I!! If you have any problems, feel free to come back on here and ask!! This place is a great resource and has a lot of people that will help!! Also try going onto mainelysubarus.com they are good guys as well and they all live in Maine and a lot of them are willing to give a hand. If you join, tell them I sent you. Good luck!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniw1 Posted March 1, 2009 Author Share Posted March 1, 2009 thank you very much. what part of maine are you from. I will check out the web site Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 thank you very much. what part of maine are you from. I will check out the web site I live in Waldoboro, which is central Maine, hey good luck! I hope all turns out well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 your right I found the stamp so all the paperwork is wrong I will try a new cap but let me ask you if it was you would you drive it if the temp gauge didnt go to hot. On the left side(standing in front of car) of the radiator, is a small vent screw on the radiator. I've found recently that opening this screw just a few turns will vent out steam and gases that build up in the cooling jacket. This allows you to drive a car with pressurizing cooling system. The bubbles vent out the screw befvore they can push coolant out oveflow. So you retain a full cooling system longer, and prevent the big pocket of air from building up. Now it is a controlled leak, so it will mean checking coolant pretty much daily. And it's definately not a *fix* just a work around. But it may buy him some time of short trip driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 Good to know, thanks Gloyale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 Good to know, thanks Gloyale Alternately, installing a *lever Vent* radiator cap and putting it in the vent position will accomplish the same thing almost. Although, then the bubbles still have to cross the radiator, and may still end up pushing coolant out the cap. the vent built into the radiator is directly over the inlet into radiator, so the bubbles go bye bye right away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 Alternately, installing a *lever Vent* radiator cap and putting it in the vent position will accomplish the same thing almost. Although, then the bubbles still have to cross the radiator, and may still end up pushing coolant out the cap. the vent built into the radiator is directly over the inlet into radiator, so the bubbles go bye bye right away. I wish the newer style radiators like in my RS had that style radiator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniw1 Posted March 1, 2009 Author Share Posted March 1, 2009 ok new developments I bought a new radiator cap put it on then the car wouldn't start. I took it off and tried to start it when it finally kicked in fluid shot up unto the hood. Then I shut it off put the cap back on and started it this time the top hose came off. I put the hose back on filled the fluids and started again this time everything went well, I drove for about 8 miles with no problem the temp gauge never went near hot. Later i went to try it again but first I checked the fluid I was down quite a bit. but none was on the driveway where did it go? The car started up with no problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 Well if it's the head gasket than it would be burning the coolant, so that's where it would go. Why wouldn't it start??? And when it did, the top hose came off? Was the clamp loose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniw1 Posted March 1, 2009 Author Share Posted March 1, 2009 the clamp was not loose, I don't know why it wouldn't start but it sputtered and I had to put the gas peddle all the way to the floor while turning it over it sputtered then there was a popping noise then it started. last night I filled the coolant and after talking with you this morning I went and checked it and the level was down, without even running the car the level dropped. Like I said no signs in the snow on the driveway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdjdc Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 When you say that the gasketw wer OEM does that mean that the mechanic got them from a subaru dealer. I ask because I recently did a few headgaskets with some OEM certified (but not from a dealer) gaskets and they all failed within 400 miles. I ended up doing the jobs again and this time I used subaru multi layered steel gaskets and the cars are all running perfectly. I found out the hard way that not all OEM certified gaskets are the same as the dealer supplied ones. When I pulled the failed ones and put them up against the Subaru ones I could actually see the design differences and why they failed. Just asking. If the gaskets didn't come from the dealer, I would have the job redone with Subaru gaskets and I'll bet you will be golden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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