ihscout54 Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 This is kinda a continuation of my previous thread. Well my Spfi setup is now complete and running pretty well, but of corse I have a couple bugs. The fuel pump is pretty noisy in the cab also the relay gets a bit hot, may just be the way it is but I thought I'de ask. There is a slight bog/hesitaion when floored hard... The idle seems a little high as well 850ish - no vac leaks. But again this might be normal. Honestly runs smoother, but a little doggier than the Holley. Perhaps I need to adjust the tps? Timing is at 20 deg... and the disty slot is almost maxed out to the right, is this normal for this swap or am I off? I used one of those gay stubby cone filters it did not say on the pkg if it is or needs to be oiled Im sure it does but im concerned about the MAF element as it is pretty close to the filter. Is this really an issue? The rubber lines from the body to the tank I did not change. The suction side of the pump probably doesnt matter but the return side might need to be FI grade hose, anyone ever changed these? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 My disty on my SPFI swapped Brat is maxed out all the way to the front. I actually reamed out the hole a little to get more out of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted March 1, 2009 Author Share Posted March 1, 2009 I wanted to add a couple of notes for future searchers. I have A/C I had to tap in the A/C signal blue wire to the compressor hot wire. Also if you have A/C it is very difficult to install the fuse box and coil where G.D's manual shows because of the hoses from the compressor. I put a fuseable link box next to the battery and ran my power from there and installed the coil on the fender just above the jack holder. I had to make a long coil wire to reach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpholz Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 (edited) in my mpfi xt the fuel pump was super loud and it would cause the car to cut out quite often. replaced it with a new one and now it runs just fine. but since the new one was of a different size it rattles in the carrier just ever so slightly and now you can hear it inside but not outside. so if your brat decides to hesitate real bad and not want to go over 3k rpms one day check out the pump and as far as the air filter, the oil is what actualy catches the dirt and grime that goes into it. but as far as i know the oil will not go through it and too the maf. but dont quote me on that lol Edited March 2, 2009 by rpholz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted March 2, 2009 Author Share Posted March 2, 2009 I know they have to be oiled so I have no choice just curiuos. The fuel pump isnt very loud outsude just in the driver seat (of corse). I might just run it for a bit and see what happens. Any one mess with those lines between the tank and the body? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaingoatgruff Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 when i put spfi on my hatch, i replaced the lines between the body and tank with fi rated hose, its not hard just a pain. i also ran a 3" k&n cone filter and never had issues with the oil. i made a new hold down plate for my dist so i could avoid gouging out the slot, moved the bolt hole 3/8" over and it has plenty of rotational room. also, i cinched the coil mount's bolt holes up a bit and just mounted the spfi coil where the original one was and standard EA81 plug wires fit well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted March 2, 2009 Author Share Posted March 2, 2009 Thanks for the help boys/ possible girls? You never know Gruff: I looked at a few of your old posts from when you were going through the swap. A real shame your F.I. setup didnt work out for you it sounds like you did a beautiful job. I have no doubt that the E.J. swap wil be the same. I Also wished I could have jumped on the parts befor you sold em'. That return line seems smaller than 1/4", and thats why I was afraid to mess with it, I wasnt happy with the attchment of my return line under the hood because the line seems a little smaller than the I.D. of the hose. I also thought there was probably only a few PSI in the return line anyways. I might just put a gauge on it to see for fun. But its as much trouble as just pullin the line and replacing it so... there is a few things I am not satisfyed with yet. The pump noise is a little dorky, and the relay getting hot... Probably no biggy but kinda bugs me. I need to get a different CTS work out a hold down for the filter and source some exhaust manifold flanges, I just couldnt find them and I had to get her back together. I expected it to leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 Relay shouldn`t be hot. You are losing some fuel pump voltage at the bad relay contacts.Might be enough to affect running.Put your voltmeter across the relay contacts w/the engine running to see what your losing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted March 2, 2009 Author Share Posted March 2, 2009 (edited) No voltage loss between terminals. But the plug on the pump shows 3.9 ohms between hot and ground. Edited March 3, 2009 by ihscout54 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingbobdole Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 My disty on my SPFI swapped Brat is maxed out all the way to the front. I actually reamed out the hole a little to get more out of it. +1 Do this. I did it on my SPFI BRAT as well and my carbbed swapped EA82 wagon I run a TON of timing... Since you're lower compression then normal SPFI you can add a few degrees... IIRC I'm upwards of 28 degrees on the wagon, but I'm also at 5k feet. The relay should not get hot... that's why there's a relay... either the pump has too much draw or the wire to the relay is too small, or it's wired wrong. Adjust the TPS, mine was out too. Maybe check the resistance on your CTS as well? How is the pump mounted? In rubbers I hope. Advance your timing:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted March 3, 2009 Author Share Posted March 3, 2009 Should there be any resistance between the body and the pump hot? I will definately adv. my timing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 No voltage loss between terminals. But the plug on the pump shows 3.9 ohms between hot and ground. 0.0 volts? Are you sure? There has to be a voltage drop across the relay or it wouldn`t be hot.Barring problems on the control winding side(shorted windings-pretty doubtful-check resistance) it has to be bad internal contacts or poor connections.Too small a wire will "heat" the wire,not the relay. 3.9 sounds about right for for fuel pump resistance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted March 3, 2009 Author Share Posted March 3, 2009 Well just got back from the JY and the pump there was 3.5 ohms soo yea normal. It leaked though so I left it. The only thing I noticed was that this car had a pressure dampener in right after the pump and by the injector like G.D's manual showes. But the car I got my pump off of did not have this dampener right after the pump. Is this needed? Ill check the relay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted March 3, 2009 Author Share Posted March 3, 2009 Oh B.T.W the car at the yard had squeezy clamps on the ruber return line between the body and the tank. So Im still thinking it isnt realy needed to put the high psi stuff there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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