eppoh Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 Still struggling with getting this 93 Loyale to stop pinging. The sticker under the hood says to connect the Green 2 pole connector when setting the ignition timing. My green connector has only one pole. There is another one pole connector that is white. It does not seem to make any difference whether one, both, or neither is plugged in when I set the timing- it does not change. What is it supposed to do, and which ones are really supposed to be hooked up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 Could I Ask What is your Engine`s Actual Timing? ... it Should be Around 20º Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 Still struggling with getting this 93 Loyale to stop pinging. The sticker under the hood says to connect the Green 2 pole connector when setting the ignition timing. My green connector has only one pole. There is another one pole connector that is white. it only has one wire, but it is actually a 2 pin type connector. Use the green ones. It holds the timing static. You wouldn't really notice other than when you rev it up. set it to 20 degs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 (edited) I quote you from your other post: "It had a major oil leak on the right head gasket, so I had it changed along with timing..." Did you see, or did you get a report on the extent of carbon deposits on the piston, head, and valves? Low mileage engine with this symptom, I might put Sunoco 94 in it, and give it an "Itallian tune-up". Doug Edit: I'd also make sure the plug wires were fresh and quality. Cap and rotor too. Edited March 2, 2009 by Quidam add text Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eppoh Posted March 2, 2009 Author Share Posted March 2, 2009 The timing now is at 18. That is as far as I can go without pinging. Done all the other stuff, new everything ignition wise.. all NGK Been thru 3 tanks of gas, Sea Foam, each tank., I always run 89 or higher as that is what the jobber I buy from gets and no alcohol in his gas. Compressions good. I can't help but think that left side cam is off one notch on the belt. But which way? When I got it back from the shop that did the head gasket, and timing belts, I checked the disty timing. It showed at 23, but it had not pinged before, and I could tell looking at the disty, that it had been at that place forever. I am thinking if that left cam were off one notch, it would have thrown off the disty timing my about 3 degrees, but I don't know for certain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 I had the same problem with my 92, new NGK wires, plugs, cleaned injector, new brass terminal cap & rotor, timing set, cleaned egr and pcv, checked all vacuum hoses, fuel filter, etc, etc, blah, blah. It didn't stop until I switched from conventional gas to E10 blend. Now it's smooth and strong. When I first get on it, it will ping like it's burning off the built up carbon, then it's smooth. Is it running hot? That will also do it. If the needle on your gauge gets higher than 1/4 inch from the resting position, it's running too hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 (edited) Hi, Did they mill the head? It would raise compression a bit. They replaced the passenger side head gasket only? Wondering, Doug Edit: " When I first get on it, it will ping like it's burning off the built up carbon, then it's smooth." Hi Frank. "Any" ping is very bad. Beats on even the rod bearings and such. Doug Edited March 2, 2009 by Quidam add text Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eppoh Posted March 2, 2009 Author Share Posted March 2, 2009 (edited) Not running hot. Barely at a quarter off cold. Thing is, it did not ping before head gasket and timing belt job. Is there some way to physically check the piston on number 2 or 4 cylinder at TDC against the timing marks on the flywheel? Edited March 2, 2009 by eppoh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 Not running hot. Barely at a quarter off cold. Thing is, it did not ping before head gasket and timing belt job. Is there some way to physically check the piston on number 2 or 4 cylinder at TDC against the timing marks on the flywheel? Yes, but...Have you double checked just the normal timing belt install? OTOH, one cam advanced? I'd be looking at the injector pretty close. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eppoh Posted March 5, 2009 Author Share Posted March 5, 2009 Yes, but...Have you double checked just the normal timing belt install? OTOH, one cam advanced? I'd be looking at the injector pretty close. Doug What's to look at on the injector? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Hi, Was just wondering if the injecter flows as it should. IDK. Too many variables. If everything checks out, just run higher octane fuel. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eppoh Posted March 6, 2009 Author Share Posted March 6, 2009 Hi, Was just wondering if the injecter flows as it should. IDK. Too many variables. If everything checks out, just run higher octane fuel. Doug Is there a way to check that injector flow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 Hi, Yes, but I don't have my hands one it:). Look, logical place to look for the solution is the last place that was worked on. The head gasket job. I asked some questions about that... The timing. As it stands you were running 23 degrees and now 18...something like that. The Map in the computer controlls the timing advance. Not a vacume canister, weights, springs and such. Theoretically, you have 5 degrees too much on throttle tip in. You can see just how much dynamic timing the computer is giving it with a "Advance Timing Light". Look it up, or take it to someone who has one. Then compare it to what the factory specs are. Or just put higher octane fuel in it. In the end, if that's what it wants, give it to it. hth Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eppoh Posted March 10, 2009 Author Share Posted March 10, 2009 Problem Solved. I was poking around looking at something and found a little stand off bracket loose. The bolt that holds it on is an intake manifold bolt. It was not even finger tight. Decided to check the others. Two others on the drivers side were loose as well. Torqued them to spec, retimed back to 20 and Voila! Runs right. Also found that the A/C electric condenser fan harness was left disconnected as well. Stopped by the shop that did the work and let the guy know. Went easy on him since he looked like hell- coming down with the flu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eppoh Posted June 16, 2009 Author Share Posted June 16, 2009 Problem not solved., Still pinging,. For some reason it is intermittent. Usually it pings, but not always. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 Is this still the one side ping? I feel for you. You have been fighting this one for a while. Ok you are sure the t-belt is set correctly and under proper tension, right? So it has to be something else. Did you ever check the EGR valve function, vaccume system, and your plug gaps? You already saw what a shop can do, perhapse they regapped them incorrectly, hooked up the EGR circuit incorrectly, or screwed up a manifold gasket. Did they install new plugs when they did the HG? Have you thought about checking the fuel pressure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88RxTuner Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 Have you checked your O2sensor readings? It sounds like you are fairly capable, if you havent, please do. Use your multimeter, tap into the signal wire on your O2 sensor and check the voltage output. Bouncing .300-.700v or close to it is normal. Stuck under .400v means you have an relatively large air leak, and are running lean beyond the computer's ability to adjust fuel delivery, and should probably spray some brake cleaner or ether around your engine to find out where it's sucking air. Over about .800v COULD mean there's a minor lean condition and the computer is adding fuel, but usually it means you are running somewhat rich, i.e. too much fuel or not enough air. That would be the first place I would go after ignition timing, which it sounds like you have already been through and had plenty of advice on. +1 on re-checking the basics... Plug gap, EGR system, vacuum hoses, etc... If you haven't already. Hope this helps! 88RxTuner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 Does this only happen under a load? Up hill, or with the AC on? Mine is terrible going up a hill with the AC on, pings so bad I have to turn off the AC to keep from crying... Also, did you check the exhaust gaskets? if they are leaking air may be sucked in and throwing off the O2 readings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eppoh Posted July 10, 2009 Author Share Posted July 10, 2009 Put new )2 sensor in,. No change. Still does it intermittently, Seems like it is a fuel supply problem, but I do not want to buy an injector. Don't have any way to check fuel pressure. I do notice that when it is pinging, it decelerates much faster when I let the foot off the pedal??? I have done the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, exhaust, intake, timing belts:confused: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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